1999 Chevy Tahoe 4x4 Crank - Will Not Start

[OBSTheBest]

Hey TYF family,

I've got my first thread to post on a problem that I am having with my 1999 Chevy Tahoe 5.7L Vortec 173K miles. No check engine light, no codes, no misfires, and no loss of power.

Recently, (past 6 months) the truck has had a full tune-up, along with a fuel pump and fuel filter replacement. The problem started with a random no start 6 months ago. When I say random, it felt like the truck would give me no problems for 4-5 starts then after that 4th or 5th start it would just crank like there was no fuel. If I would let it sit for a few minutes, it would start hassle free and begin the whole process over again it felt like. I was recommended by a family friend to check the battery terminals (no issues there), replace the fuel pump and give it a tune-up. Did the tune-up first and that worked for a few months. Truck went 4-5 months without any issues, before it started to give me trouble starting again..

So, I moved on to the fuel pump and filter. Did the fuel pump about 3 weeks ago. ACDelco fuel pump and fuel filter done. The truck started for about 2 straight weeks with absolutely no issues again but, last weekend (Saturday) stalled in the driveway after running for about 3 minutes while I was helping my son fill up the tire on his bike. Got back in the truck and it fired right back up and I went about my way and did my errands for the day, no issues. The very next day (Sunday), I took it up to the corner gas station. Was hesitant to shut it off but I did. Came out of the gas station and it fired right up. As I was waiting to pull onto the main road out of the parking lot, the truck stalled again. I panicked, but the truck started right back up and made it back home with no issues.

That night I invested in a fuel pressure gauge (a little late, I know lol) and I was getting 60+ psi to the fuel rail when turning the key and 52-54 psi once it started and idled. All this week it has not stalled, but it has started its 4-5 starts then not want to start again unless you let it sit for a few minutes. I began to notice that when it would not start, I would have 0 psi and it would just crank. If I let it sit and swung the key from off to auxiliary on, the gauge may read 0 psi for a few swings, then would shoot up to 60 psi and I would be able to go full swing and have the truck fire right up!

Last night, the truck wouldn't start. I tried for an hour swinging the key off and on.. Nothing. The entire hour the gas pressure gauge never budged from 0 psi so, it feels like whatever the culprit is finally gave out. Also tried this morning when leaving for work and had the same ongoing issue as last night. It is sort of a sense of relief knowing that whatever this ongoing problem is, could finally show itself.

I am now being advised to look into the spider injection and fuel pressure regulator. Would anyone know how to diagnose the injector? I am so deep into this ongoing issue; I would just hate to replace those, and it be a band-aid fix like the other repairs have felt like.

Any past experience and 2 cents are extremely welcome, please.

I love this truck and just want to put my trust back in it.

 

[exp500]

You are on the right track focusing on fuel, given the symptoms presented. Fuel pressure on these should be 61-62 minimum.
Test your oil pressure sender as it is in the circuit to fuel pump and a normal failure after 100k miles.
A 6 foot hose on fuel pressure guage with hose tucked under wiper allows you to see fuel pressure under real conditions.
A cheap scanner looking at live data is a big help also.
Good luck and report back with your findings.

88-98 Service Manuals

Over the years I have collected a bunch of GM service literature. Links to PDF Scans of service and STG manuals and a links to the Parts manuals. You'll need the FREE Adobe Acrobat reader to open these files. Get it directly from Adobe here {http://get.adobe.com/reader/} If you're not...

www.gmt400.com

OBD2 Scanners & Car Code Readers

Our Bluetooth OBD2 scanners are great for use with Android or Windows phones & devices. Our WiFi OBD readers are a great option offering more flexibility and can be used with Android, iOS or Windows devices.

bafxpro.com

 

[Eman85]

When you don't have fuel pressure check for power AND ground at the fuel pump. If you have power and ground you won the lottery of bad parts, nothing to brag about as it's an easy lottery to win.

 

[OBSTheBest]

When you don't have fuel pressure check for power AND ground at the fuel pump. If you have power and ground you won the lottery of bad parts, nothing to brag about as it's an easy lottery to win.

Do you know where I may locate the power wire on the fuel pump without having to drop the tank?

 

[strutaeng]

Well obviously if the pressure is 0 when checking with a fuel pressure gauge, then that's a problem.

Can you hear the fuel pump prime at all? If not, then possibly something related to power or ground. Charm.li website should have wiring diagram for the fuel pump. You can find the wire (or connector) nearest the pump and use those piercing probes to check for voltage with a DVOM. I think you want to in addition check with an incandescent test light just to make sure the circuit is able to handle some amperage.

Also, swap a FP relay just to make sure you don't have an intermittently failing one.

Finally, I don't know if your truck has this blue wire hanging out near the fuseblock. I believe most GMs of these years had that, and it's to manually prime the fuel pump. I've never had to do that, just know that's what it's for. I can't remember if you ground it or apply a 12+ to it. I'm sure you can Google it.

Start with the easiest diagnostics and the system of elimination to start ruling things out.

I hope this helps.

 

[OBSTheBest]

Well obviously if the pressure is 0 when checking with a fuel pressure gauge, then that's a problem.

Can you hear the fuel pump prime at all? If not, then possibly something related to power or ground. Charm.li website should have wiring diagram for the fuel pump. You can find the wire (or connector) nearest the pump and use those piercing probes to check for voltage with a DVOM. I think you want to in addition check with an incandescent test light just to make sure the circuit is able to handle some amperage.

Also, swap a FP relay just to make sure you don't have an intermittently failing one.

Finally, I don't know if your truck has this blue wire hanging out near the fuseblock. I believe most GMs of these years had that, and it's to manually prime the fuel pump. I've never had to do that, just know that's what it's for. I can't remember if you ground it or apply a 12+ to it. I'm sure you can Google it.

Start with the easiest diagnostics and the system of elimination to start ruling things out.

I hope this helps.

Thank you for the feedback.

Before the fuel pump was changed, I used to hear the whine of the fuel pump for 1-2 seconds when turning the key to auxiliary. That eventually would not happen on times that it would not start. Leading to believe it needed to be replaced. Strangely on this new fuel pump, I have not heard any whine at all since the day it was put in. I've replaced the fuel pump relay before the new pump was put in, but it did not make a difference. I will need to check for the blue wire. I do not recall seeing anything like that.