2” RC Leveling Kit Question

[Dantheman-2003]

I installed a lift kit on my 03 Tahoe over the weekend. New keys, front shocks, control arms, tie rods etc. prior to the lift, I measured 36” in the front. Post lift, I’m at 38.5” when I crank the keys where I want them. Then after I lower it to the ground and drive around the block I’m down to 37.5”. I’ve done this a few times, crank the keys, it perfect, then soon as I back out the driveway it drops again. I do have the Autoride setup and did not do anything to the rear. Not sure if that matters, just throwing it out there. I have a few more turns I can go on the keys, but wanted to pause and check here first.

Question is: Any reason why it would drop back down?

 

[Ordo 87]

I have done this in the past on my 06 Denali.
Here is what I did and what I experienced as the results of doing a 3" leveling kit:

1. I stripped all the Auto-ride out including the compressor.
2. I replaced the stock key with a Supreme Suspension 3" lift/level key
3. I installed Bilstein 5100 all the way around; sized for 2-4 in lift
4. I tried the 2.5 in spacer on the stock springs and the rear sagged below level repeatedly
5. Installed Moog problem solver HD springs along with the 2.5 spacer.

After all this the level was good.
But...
My new BFG's were ruined after full rotation cycles were maintained and was forced to flip white letter out/in to attempt to balance the tire wear.

All leveling kits ruin the geometry of the front tires and will do this.
If you want that clearance and don't want to ruin your fancy 31+ tires, just bite the bullet and do the 6" lift.
This will force the front tires to stay in the correct geometry and travel and will keep the tire level on the wear pad.

 

[Dantheman-2003]

I have done this in the past on my 06 Denali.
Here is what I did and what I experienced as the results of doing a 3" leveling kit:

1. I stripped all the Auto-ride out including the compressor.
2. I replaced the stock key with a Supreme Suspension 3" lift/level key
3. I installed Bilstein 5100 all the way around; sized for 2-4 in lift
4. I tried the 2.5 in spacer on the stock springs and the rear sagged below level repeatedly
5. Installed Moog problem solver HD springs along with the 2.5 spacer.

After all this the level was good.
But...
My new BFG's were ruined after full rotation cycles were maintained and was forced to flip white letter out/in to attempt to balance the tire wear.

All leveling kits ruin the geometry of the front tires and will do this.
If you want that clearance and don't want to ruin your fancy 31+ tires, just bite the bullet and do the 6" lift.
This will force the front tires to stay in the correct geometry and travel and will keep the tire level on the wear pad.

Thanks. Eventually I will do the 6” lift. For now just trying to level.

 

[Trey Hardy]

Thanks. Eventually I will do the 6” lift. For now just trying to level.

This sounds crazy but my buddy wore out his torsion bars he got some Lower milage ones out the scrap yard and gained over a inch as he had the same issue after installing the leveling keys he couldn’t get over 2” of lift out of it
Note he couldn’t get more then 2” of lift out his rc 2-3” leveling keys

My other buddy robbed keys out a ford f150 because it actually lifted our trucks 2” I cranked and around 3.5-4” cranked up

As far as the tires goes spend the money on good EXTENDED upper control arms such as fabtech cognito kryptonite etc to correct your camber and upper ball joint angles
Diff drop helps cv angles
You’ll be at a bind on the lower ball joint but it’s the nature of the beast with leveling kits

 

[drakon543]

ok so anything you do to a suspension changes the position of everything. if you do any suspension lift without an alignment it will chew your tires apart. some cheaper kits are literally for your mall crawlers and show trucks so getting perfect alignment isnt necessary. back to the original question as to why your seeing a drop after you drive the vehicle is the tires and suspension and settling back into its loaded state. unless its a solid axle vehicle when you lift a vehicle the front end sits like \/. once your drive it everything settles back to as close to l l as it can get. i would also note most kits especially key kits are capable of going beyond what the drivetrain is actually capable of. the mfg assumes the end consumer is either using a shop thats already aware of this or has done thier research and is themselves aware of it. so if your vehicle is safe for 2 inches and thats what your after you will have the push the keys beyond what your currently doing so it sits at your desired height after a drive.

 

[Dantheman-2003]

ok so anything you do to a suspension changes the position of everything. if you do any suspension lift without an alignment it will chew your tires apart. some cheaper kits are literally for your mall crawlers and show trucks so getting perfect alignment isnt necessary. back to the original question as to why your seeing a drop after you drive the vehicle is the tires and suspension and settling back into its loaded state. unless its a solid axle vehicle when you lift a vehicle the front end sits like \/. once your drive it everything settles back to as close to l l as it can get. i would also note most kits especially key kits are capable of going beyond what the drivetrain is actually capable of. the mfg assumes the end consumer is either using a shop thats already aware of this or has done thier research and is themselves aware of it. so if your vehicle is safe for 2 inches and thats what your after you will have the push the keys beyond what your currently doing so it sits at your desired height after a drive.

Thanks. That makes sense and I’ve read that that somewhere before. I’ll crank the keys some more and see what happens.

 

[Alex_M]

My new BFG's were ruined after full rotation cycles were maintained and was forced to flip white letter out/in to attempt to balance the tire wear.

All leveling kits ruin the geometry of the front tires and will do this.
If you want that clearance and don't want to ruin your fancy 31+ tires, just bite the bullet and do the 6" lift.
This will force the front tires to stay in the correct geometry and travel and will keep the tire level on the wear pad.

I see this fairly often, but it simply is not the case.

Trucks with leveling kits can be aligned for proper tire wear - I've owned plenty this has been the case for. Currently have three in my fleet with leveling kits and proper tire wear. Two NBS and one NNBS.

The biggest thing is finding an alignment shop that knows what they're doing. I am very picky about where I go. I have one dealership an hour and a half away that I trust a lot. Owners also used to run NASCAR - Morgan-McClure. Does that make a difference? Maybe, maybe not. I have had generally poor luck with indie shops as well as other dealerships. I have one other dealer half an hour away I have had mostly good results out of. Not as good as the other Dealer, but second best. Couple local indie shops do a half rate job. Got one local dealer you'd be better off setting it by eye. Wish I were eggagerating.

When you get into lifted suspension, it's not as simple as setting things back to "factory spec". Ask around, especially if you have local shops that do custom work or build race cars.

 

[Dantheman-2003]

I see this fairly often, but it simply is not the case.

Trucks with leveling kits can be aligned for proper tire wear - I've owned plenty this has been the case for. Currently have three in my fleet with leveling kits and proper tire wear. Two NBS and one NNBS.

The biggest thing is finding an alignment shop that knows what they're doing. I am very picky about where I go. I have one dealership an hour and a half away that I trust a lot. Owners also used to run NASCAR - Morgan-McClure. Does that make a difference? Maybe, maybe not. I have had generally poor luck with indie shops as well as other dealerships. I have one other dealer half an hour away I have had mostly good results out of. Not as good as the other Dealer, but second best. Couple local indie shops do a half rate job. Got one local dealer you'd be better off setting it by eye. Wish I were eggagerating.

When you get into lifted suspension, it's not as simple as setting things back to "factory spec". Ask around, especially if you have local shops that do custom work or build race cars.

Agree. I’ve done these kits before, just not on Tahoe. My alignment shop is a good one. Just trying to get it at right height before taking it in. I’m almost there. Going to keep cranking the keys until it settles where I want it.

 

[Ordo 87]

Your situation is unique and not many have the access to that sort of specialty shop. The average 'Joe' taking his vehicle to Les Scwhab or the dealer wont' often find that level of expertise.