2” rear lift but keep magneride

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

RVAdude

TYF Newbie
Joined
Sep 21, 2023
Posts
3
Reaction score
1
Hello all,

I’ve tried to search the forum but don’t see my exact question discussed.

I recently installed a 3.5” front, 2” rear spacer lift on my 16 LTZ Suburban. I need to do something about the rear shocks and was hoping there was an extender. The only shock spacers I’ve seen require being able to rotate the shock assembly which can’t be done with the magneride. I’m not against doing the delete, just trying to avoid it as the system has been working fine. Am I out of luck?

I appreciate any help!

IMG_0153.jpeg
 

Rayyy

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2020
Posts
299
Reaction score
136
Location
Northern California
Can you post the shock extenders you are talking about?

I believe you’ll also need to get a longer rod for the height sensor.
 

Rayyy

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2020
Posts
299
Reaction score
136
Location
Northern California
These are one example. There are some available from just about every brand.
Ah okay, ya you’d just want to assure that the amount of lift (from the spring spacers in the rear and torision keys cranked in front) matches the amount extension by the shock extenders.

So, the only difficult part (if you want to retain magneride) will be to manage the magneride height adjustment, otherwise your suspension will constantly attempt to adjust it back down until it burns out.

You’ll need a bracket for the magneride and I think also for the wiring.

Also, if you go higher than 2” - 2.5” in the front, you’ll need upper controls arms to correct the angle of the ball joints. So, sounds like you need to do that as well.

Here is a thread I found that looks like it could be helpful.

 
OP
OP
RVAdude

RVAdude

TYF Newbie
Joined
Sep 21, 2023
Posts
3
Reaction score
1
Ah okay, ya you’d just want to assure that the amount of lift (from the spring spacers in the rear and torision keys cranked in front) matches the amount extension by the shock extenders.

So, the only difficult part (if you want to retain magneride) will be to manage the magneride height adjustment, otherwise your suspension will constantly attempt to adjust it back down until it burns out.

You’ll need a bracket for the magneride and I think also for the wiring.

Also, if you go higher than 2” - 2.5” in the front, you’ll need upper controls arms to correct the angle of the ball joints. So, sounds like you need to do that as well.

Here is a thread I found that looks like it could be helpful.

Thanks for this, I think I really just need to replace the shocks and forego the magneride. I’m about to install new upper control arms for the front, but in the rear there seems to be no readily available fix for the OE shocks.

Okay, so for 2” lift… what is best option for rest shocks? Are Rough Country N3s okay? I also see Icons as an option.
 

SpareParts

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2023
Posts
163
Reaction score
264
Location
North Idaho
My vote would be Bilstein 5100's if you're going to replace and available.
I have used longer rods for the sensors. Just get some ready rod and cut it 2in longer then your rear stock ones and 3 1/2 longer for the front. I also found spacers for the shocks on fleebay that worked well. Worked great for me and the Magnaride never knew the difference.
This was on a 08 Escalade EXT.
 

Rayyy

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2020
Posts
299
Reaction score
136
Location
Northern California
Thanks for this, I think I really just need to replace the shocks and forego the magneride. I’m about to install new upper control arms for the front, but in the rear there seems to be no readily available fix for the OE shocks.

Okay, so for 2” lift… what is best option for rest shocks? Are Rough Country N3s okay? I also see Icons as an option.

You can keep the Magneride (it would actually be cheaper too), it just takes a little extra work to get the brackets to extend the height adjustment rod and wiring. Either way, depending on how high you go, you might need longer sway bar links as well.

Bilstein are nice, but they are a digressive piston type, which results in better handling at the expense of a firmer ride on small bumps. Rancho on the other hand, uses linear piston design, which makes for a more comfortable ride, comparatively.

Either way, regarding shock length, they come in different heights to match different amount of lift, even the Rough Country N3.

Below is the catalog for Bilsteins, which have more height options than Rancho, but again… Rancho will be more plush on the street.


And I can’t speak for quality/longevity of RC N3 (I’ve never ran them), I’ve always stuck to Bilstein or Rancho, but a ton of people run RC, so they must be okay at the least.
 

SpareParts

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2023
Posts
163
Reaction score
264
Location
North Idaho
In my experience the Rancho shocks were much stiffer and rode rough also had rust forming on them less than a year old.
Bilstein 4600 were stock on Z71 trucks, On a truck with 2in lift the 5100's are the recommended shock by Bilstein
Everyone's experience varies so take it for what its worth.
 
Top