2-3 Inch Drop

[NeverSatisfied]

Stock shocks are too long for 3" of drop. Give you the extra length so the shocks don't hold the truck up from coming down 3"s

 

[Tonyrodz]

So I need those too?

 

[NeverSatisfied]

I would recommend them if you plan on using stock length shocks.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Something else on the list. Thx.

 

[Fosscore]

@Tonyrodz

Here is the NorcalSS page with all the drop kits listed. Every option is listed there and once you get ahold of him, he can dial you in with exactly what you want. Email him. Sometimes that is quicker.
[email protected] or [email protected]

Here is the list of what went on my truck including the Spohn rear pan hard bar and free travel mod. Rear spacer is pulled out. I also have the Airlift 60742 Air Bags, however they are normally at 0psi.Front keys are turned down a bit. And has been aligned twice. Tracks straight and rides pretty damn good. Not like the Suburban on 20s. A little slop in the steering, but I think I have a pitmanarm that is a bit loose last time the mechanic had it on the lift.

Current measurements are as follows:

• Front Ground to Fender Lip 32 7/8""
• Rear Ground to Fender Lip 33 1/8"

 

[shakedown067]

The shock extenders are really for keeping the shock at a proper angle so it's more effective. Even if you use drop shocks, they require the extenders.

 

[Rocket Man]

It's not the angle of the shock, it's the amount of travel. If you drop 3", you remove about of 3" of travel in your shocks since the mounting points will be that much closer together. They might actually bottom out. I used Belltech 2" spindles, Belltech 3" drop springs in the rear, DJM shock extenders, front and rear swaybars and rear end links, Spohn adjustable panhard bar, and Energy Suspension front end links. Also did the free travel mod in the rear. I'd suggest you probably will want to go with pretty much comparable stuff, but probably won't need the Spohn panhard with the smaller wheels. ( I was working with 26's and it allowed me to re-center the wheels side-to-side so they fit in the fenders). After you get it lowered, you'll want it to corner and stop flatter so that's when the swaybars and endlinks come into play. No sense going halfway! Of course you can wait on that part.

 

[David Paul]

As far as I know, I'm staying with the 17's, but you know how that goes.

Did you get everything from Tony? In trying to go as cheap as possible. Just trying to get what I need, without touching the keys. BTW, love those wheels!

Thanks, wheels were a Craigslist find. I did get everything from Tony and found him the least expensive, not by a lot but still.
I also did the free travel mod, not hard just take your time.
I see in another post that it was recommended to remove the tbars to relieve the tension. I had never heard of this and did not do it. Once I completed my swap, I just loosened the adjusting bolt a little, drove it to settle the suspension, then tightened them to get close to the same wheel gap side to side. Drive and repeat till your happy. Easier then it sounds.
This is a piece of cake compaired to an engine swap.....

 

[shakedown067]

You know, it's been a while since I did my spindles. I think you are right that I just loosed the torsion keys, didn't remove the keys. You certainly don't have to remove the bar, but have to relieve the tension on it.

 

[Big Mama]

When you say your main problem is autoride are you talking about making sure it still works or how to bend/adjust the rods that tell it when to go up or down?