Update: First weekend is behind us and the new setup is kicking ass and taking names, I probably put 200 miles on it so far. I cant pass inspection to save my life(re-tuned for tires size to close to inspection time lol) and nobody in a 30mile radius will even began to try to give me an alignment.
But boy does it drive like a dream, these have to be the best MTs on the market. If Nitto and Toyos ride like this I now see why people rave about them. As far as size goes lets remember when mounted on the vehicle these measure out with a tape measure to be 35” by 16”(16 is from shoulder lug to shoulder lug). Contact patch is 15” wide give or take and I can get my entire thumb down into the voids between lugs, but Katie and myself can talk at 60mph with the windows down, they are sooo freaking quite(I can hear my Flowmaster 70 series again, and they are sooo freakin smooth like butter. No mud tire tractor shake at stop lights, no crazy road feedback like low pro-MTs, steering wheel barely shakes from lug slap at all. I barely feel any bumps in the roads, big bumps I know about in my area are smooth now and you barely feel them. I am just blown away at how well they do on the street. That said they do chase the groves in the road, pulling the truck left and right sometimes(steering stabilizer would be good) and it definitely has trouble stopping. But I don’t see any problem with driving this daily, it’s not hard to turn with the redhead steering box, it’s plenty fast enough to keep up with traffic(thanks
@BlackBearPerf), and its 10x more comfortable to ride in then before with the 20x12s.
Cognito, Blistien, BlackBearPerf, and Mickey Thompson FTMFW!!!!!
Alignment might not be needed.....from what I can tell the alignment didn’t really change. I did 8 turns of the torsion bolts, after driving it some the front settled to 46” so I got 1/2” of lift from 8 turns. Toe and caster seem the same, the truck still tracks the same and there are no weird steering behaviors to report. I know raising the truck gives the front positive camber so I am sure the camber is a little off, I could easily move my upper control arms inward a little which should counter the positive camber created by raising it. I just wonder if it’s necessary? Might order one of the DIY home alignment kits with the levels and all that and do it myself.
Specs:
Old setup: (20x12 -44) - 33x12.50R20 - 31.5” x 13”
New setup: (16x10 -25) - 375/65r16 - 35” x 16”
Difference: new setup is 3.5” taller overall, net lift - 1.75”
Old fender height: New Fender Height
Front: 43.75” 46”
Rear: 43.5” 45.25”
* 8 turns on torsion bolts netted 1/2” of lift
(going to measure track width tonight and will update)
If people want other measurements let me know.