2000 NBS Blue Steel Burban Build

[00'BlueSteel]

Don't forget there's the number of each LED in the light, so the lumen output is the total of all of them as well as wattage. The Endpage show 4.4 watts on bright output so if you take the (21) 2835 LED's and look at the chart, the 2835a shows .2 watts which works out. 21 x .2 = 4.4. So in that case the lumens would be 21 x 29 = 609. I want to see what 21 of the 2835c's would look like at 2,730 lumens. Too bad it would melt fuses at 27 watts per bulb.

Sounds like the Endpage ones will not as bright as what I have now, but I feel like I am missing something. The ones I have installed right now claim to be 33 SMD pieces 0.5W AX-2835. So that’s 2,079 lumens, 16.5 watts, at 12v that’s just a little over 1.375A. Even the configuration you mentioned at 27watts would not melt wiring or fuses based off current draw, 27w/12v=2.25A. But like I said maybe I am missing something?

Edit: I did miss per bulb. The brake light has its own 10A fuse, 2 LEDs total 4.5A and a halogen CHMSL, not blowing that fuse. Turns seem to have a 20A fuse, so 2 LEDS in the back 4.5A and 4 in front at 9A, small 194 corner LEDs draw 1.5A for both, 15A current draw for turns. Fuses would be fine, also most vehicles sit around 14v when running which would decrease the current needed to still output the same wattage.

 

[Rocket Man]

Sounds like the Endpage ones will not as bright as what I have now, but I feel like I am missing something. The ones I have installed right now claim to be 33 SMD pieces 0.5W AX-2835. So that’s 16.5 watts, at 12v that’s just a little over 1.375A. Even the configuration you mentioned at 27watts would not melt wiring or fuses based off current draw, 27w/12v=2.25A. But like I said maybe I am missing something.

No you're right. I was thinking amps not watts. I'm an idiot lol.

 

[00'BlueSteel]

No you're right. I was thinking amps not watts. I'm an idiot lol.

Lol its all good, I had to recheck Ohms law right quick to make sure I remembered correctly.

Looks like the JDM ones I have are 3.4x brighter then the endpages ones. But I wonder if we are getting into the whole not all companies label their stuff the same. Like speakers, most people think you need hundreds of watts to get loud but you really dont, they just think that because almost every mainstream company advertise MAX not RMS, the average car stereo gets loud enough to block out all other sound around you and they are only 10-25watts RMS per speaker. First time I put an actually 150watts through a door speaker I was like HOLY CRAP that’s loud.

 

[05Single]

I didn't realize how many different options there are for LEDs till like a year ago when I was doing some research. Lots of info out there and many different options and they're only going to keep making new styles

 

[00'BlueSteel]

I didn't realize how many different options there are for LEDs till like a year ago when I was doing some research. Lots of info out there and many different options and they're only going to keep making new styles

Seriously, I have made it to reading about COP vs Flip and then learning what sets Cree, Philips, and others apart. I think I am going to order some Philips Flip LEDs for my high beams the HIDs I have are ok but I dont like the warm up time for hi-beams.

 

[05Single]

Seriously, I have made it to reading about COP vs Flip and then learning what sets Cree, Philips, and others apart. I think I am going to order some Philips Flip LEDs for my high beams the HIDs I have are ok but I dont like the warm up time for hi-beams.

Yea I stick with hids for now because although LEDs are most definitely a step up from halogen they still don't touch hids as far as output coverage and lumens. I have LEDs for the highs plus the fleece all on chip so warm up really wasn't an issue , but that's all changed since I put in bixenon lights. Also I get my hids locally that are made in house and have a lifetime warranty.
Phillips is one of the top brands for a reason and worth the money if one goes that route.

 

[00'BlueSteel]

Yea I stick with hids for now because although LEDs are most definitely a step up from halogen they still don't touch hids as far as output coverage and lumens. I have LEDs for the highs plus the fleece all on chip so warm up really wasn't an issue , but that's all changed since I put in bixenon lights. Also I get my hids locally that are made in house and have a lifetime warranty.
Phillips is one of the top brands for a reason and worth the money if one goes that route.

Yeah, I have HID hi and low beams, the lows have a projector so I will keep HIDs in there but the Hi-beams are just regular housings. I did the 4 hi mod by adding the extra ground wire, I can’t use the Fleece chip fuse box has a different layout. The warm up switching back and forth is fine since the low never cuts off, my dislike is because the HI takes so long to heat up I can’t really flash my lights at anyone and seems like by the time the Hi beam HIDs heat up a car is coming and I have to turn them off again. I want to swap my low beam 10k HID for a 6k HID for better color match and swap the Hi Beam 6k HID for a Hi Beam 6k LED. I originally did 10k low and 6k hi because I liked the blue of the 10k but they dont put out as much light as a 6k so I figured if I had a 6k Hi beam I could just use that whenever I need more light. At the time didn’t think about how it’s near impossible to match LEDs to a 10k HID.

 

[00'BlueSteel]

When people ask, “so what’s it like daily driving a lifted 18 year old truck with 265k miles on it?”

 

[00'BlueSteel]

Love the smell of fresh parts, machining oil and sweat!

 

[Tonyrodz]

When people ask, “so what’s it like daily driving a lifted 18 year old truck with 265k miles on it?”
View attachment 199837

You must've been a boy scout. Always prepared! Lol