2000 to 2006 models worth it?

[iamdub]

Coming from an owner of a GMT900 and having a lot of experience with friends' GMT800s, I believe the older ones are better built. Sure, there are a few mechanical improvements with the 900. But overall, I have more faith in the 800. They're also cheaper to purchase and repair. I can't comment on the rust because we don't have that here. I've always thought the 5.3 and 6.0 (LQ4) in these trucks were essentially the same motor, just varying in displacement and that neither is more or less reliable than the other. The LQ9 6.0, however, has a few unique differences but it comes in the Escalade. My neighbor has 230K on his '03 4.8 and drives it anywhere at any time. He has PLENTY of money to get something new, but sees no need (and really HAS no need) to get something newer. My friend daily drove his 413K-mile '00 Z71 5.3 sometimes 200 miles a day until he totaled it by falling asleep at the wheel. My friend daily drove his '01 ex-cab 5.3 with 317K miles until it went under 8 feet of water in a recent flood. We replaced all the fluids and used it to make three or four 40-mile round-trips hauling salvageables to his new home, blasting the A/C the whole time. I'm all about mo' powa, but the 5.3 is plenty for a people hauler. You can throw on an MIT, some long tube headers, a free-flow muffler and get it tuned and have about the same power as that 6.0 and not negatively affect your fuel economy.

 

[05alive]

Definitely glad to hear all this. From what I read it was making me worried the transmission was going to make me shy away from the Chevys.

I have no brand loyalty, I simply get whatever is the most reliable, best priced, and fits my needs. That looks like the Suburban, but I wouldn't run from a Tahoe or Yukon if I found a great deal.

Now for just hauling family and luggage, any reason to try to jump to the 2500 vs the 1500 other than the 4l80e vs 4l60e? Obviously extra power of the 6.0 would be nice but is not really needed for people hauling.

Bigger towing capacity and in the 2500.

Also if you want the 6.0 it was offered as an option in 2006 on the suburban.

You could also find a denali xl/escalade esv. You can find clean ones at a good price. My buddy just sold his 2006 denali xl with 120k miles for 5500.

Also the lq9 and the lq4 are the same motor, just a different piston face in the lq9 that changes the compression ratio slightly. Otherwise no difference.

Technically all the vortec motors are similar but the 5.3 is not the same engine as the 6.0

 

[nick112288]

I knew the Yukon XL Denali had the 6.0 just wasn't sure if there was any real reason to jump to a 2500 to get that 6.0 and tranny vs the Denali with the 6.0 and 4l65e.

I don't really need the bigger towing capacity, have nothing to tow!

 

[Larryjb]

I have a 2002 Tahoe with 250000 km. I just got it this year so I can't say too much about it.

My father has a '97 (same 4l60) and broke the sun gear, the weak link in the 4l60. What gets them is changing from D to R while still rolling (you can read up on this). and this is exactly what happened to my father.

Fords will need timing chains an tensioners, so their weak link is elsewhere.

If you're planning on using the 8 or 9 seats, 3rd row legroom is suitable for kids only in the Tahoe. The longer Suburban would be more suitable for this. Also, the Tahoe only holds about 7' in the back with seats down, making it awkward to take 4x8 sheets of materials. The Expedition is slightly longer, but still won't take 4x8's

Larry

 

[adventurenali92]

In my opinion the jump to the 2500 is worth it for the 4L80 trans alone. That was a transmission that GM built right. But if you're not gonna tow anything heavy than its not really worth it to have a 2500. Especially with fuel prices where they are. Personally I prefer the 6.0 over the 5.3, especially in the longer wheel base. But that's because I tow on a regular basis, and have weight in the back of mine with all my detailing equipment on a daily basis. I pretty much drove one of each gm full size in both standard and long wheel base before I bought my Denali xl. The 5.3 in the standard wheel base isn't too bad but in my opinion in the yukon xl slt I drove the 5.3 with the longer wheel base was a little sluggish. But the 6.0 in my Denali xl just goes. The family I share a house with has a 2005 escalade esv so hers has the LQ9 6.0. We both love our cars and neither one has had any major mechanical issues. Other than replacing my transmission nothing major. And replacing the trans wasn't all that bad because now it's a tank. And like @Larryjb , with this particular transmission rolling shifts from drive to reverse and the opposite are pretty harmful. If you're careful about that and keep it maintained the transmission shouldn't have any issues.

 

[nick112288]

After reading more I think if I can find a great deal on a 01 or 02 XL Denali (it appears they have the best AWD setup), or any 2500, I'll jump on those. But for the most part it appears a regular old well maintained 1500 will work just fine for me.

 

[adventurenali92]

All the GMT800 platform denalis have the same awd setup. The electrical in the 2003+ model is a bit better and the interior got a redesign. And they added a lot of features like power folding mirrors that are also tied to memory. Anyways just my 2 cents lol.

 

[nick112288]

I was referring to the transfer case and how on the 01-02 it's a viscous coupling and on 03+ was some kind of open differential type thing?

 

[Martinjmpr]

The 4L60E on my '04 Suburban failed on me at about 149,000 miles. That's the bad news.

The "good" news is that it was a relatively "mild" failure in the sense that it did NOT leave me stranded, which is a good thing: I was more than 100 miles from home on a long weekend camping trip with the wife, dog and 2,000lb trailer.

I lost gears 3 - 4 but was able to "limp" home in 2nd gear. Even more impressively, the route was over the Eisenhower Tunnel in Colorado (11,000' elevation) and then 60 miles back home to the Denver area. Rebuild cost me $2k but from what I've heard, the rebuilder rebuilds the transmission with stronger components than the stock transmission so I should be pretty much bulletproof from here on out.

I considered Expeditions as well. Google the problems that have happened with the 5.4 Triton and especially with the spark plugs. I don't know when they fixed this issue. The independent rear suspension was a bit of a turn off as well. Overall I love my Suburban, I've put about 14,000 miles on it in the past 9 months, and most of that time it was pulling a trailer. Other than the transmission failure which happened in August I haven't had a lick of trouble with it.

 

[ScottyBoy]

I've owned my 2001 Suburban since January 2006. I purchased it with 52k miles on it, and it now has 140k miles on it. I used to tow a LOT with it, plus I drive it like I stole it ever since I got it Blackbear tuned in 2009. About 3 years ago the transmission and rear end both took a shit on me. The spider gears in the differential stripped and locked up on me, but it locked up while I was going about 35-40mph. So that in turn destroyed the transmission. I later foubd out from the tranmission shop that it sheared the teeth right off the sunshell. He also said that for having 110,000 miles the bands actually didn't look too bad. The transmission rebuild and new spider gears set me back almost 3 grand for parts and labor. Hands down, that's the most expensive repair I've had to do on my truck to date.
In 2011 my AC compressor went bad, that was probably the second most expensive repair. Every shop quoted me $1500-$2200 to replace the compressor, drier, and flush the lines and the evaporator and condenser, and refill the refrigerant. And most of those quotes were using a remanufactured or a cheap aftermarket compressor!
I ended up ordering a genuine AC Delco compressor from Rockauto along with the drier, and I replaced it myself. I did have to pay to have the system properly vacuum pressure tested and recharged with refrigerant though. All in, I still managed to get everything done for under $600 total, so I saved myself well over a grand by doing most of the work myself. Plus I feel confident that my compressor will last me another 10 years being that I purchased a new OEM part.
Then just last month my fuel pump went out. I've also heard stories of people buying cheap pumps and they are lucky if they get a year out of them. I once again ordered a genuine AC Delco pump, which was actually cheaper than the Auto zone pump. I had to wait 3 days for it instead of going pick it up a mile away, but that's not a huge problem for me. If the original Delco pump lasted 15 years, then THATS the brand I want to replace it with, not some cheap made in China ********.
Aside from the above mentioned problems, I've had the typical repair issues over the years, brakes, shocks, battery, (I'm on my 3rd battery since 2006), a water pump, window regulators, a lock actuator, O2 sensors, knock sensors, and probably a few other things I'm forgetting.
As far as rust, that's a non-issue for me since I live in the South. I have heard though that up in the Rustbelt that rust causes problems with the brake lines on these SUVs, and sometimes can rust out the frame in the rear wheel well area if the rust gets bad enough.