2001 Tahoe power window switches not working for passengers ONLY.

[2006Tahoe2WD]

That makes sense. Probably jammed because it doesn't get used much. I guess time to take look.

I pulled the door card. Nobody had been there before (~18 years). The consul on the passenger side that holds the window and lock buttons doesn't pop out. There is a screw inside. Don't try to pry it out, you will break the tab. You can take the DC out and then reach around and unscrew the front mounting point.
Results - @justirv had it correct.... the window was stuck enough that the motor could not start the movement. I checked the 2 pin connector going to the window motor and it was getting +/- 11.5 volts using the switch. So I knew the controls/etc. were working. I losened the regulator and futz around and got it to start working. I guess that's it for now. Didn't really find the root cause. Taking the complete regulator/etc. out looks like huge PITA so I didn't go there. I bet the regulator is not that well aligned with the door frame because the motor slows down in mid motion on the way up.

 

[Doubeleive]

I pulled the door card. Nobody had been there before (~18 years). The consul on the passenger side that holds the window and lock buttons doesn't pop out. There is a screw inside. Don't try to pry it out, you will break the tab. You can take the DC out and then reach around and unscrew the front mounting point.
Results - @justirv had it correct.... the window was stuck enough that the motor could not start the movement. I checked the 2 pin connector going to the window motor and it was getting +/- 11.5 volts using the switch. So I knew the controls/etc. were working. I losened the regulator and futz around and got it to start working. I guess that's it for now. Didn't really find the root cause. Taking the complete regulator/etc. out looks like huge PITA so I didn't go there. I bet the regulator is not that well aligned with the door frame because the motor slows down in mid motion on the way up.

spray some lithium grease in the channels, that will help, might also help if you removed the 3 bolts on the motor and greased up the gear in there also

 

[Ken Casher]

Now I have the passenger-window-will-not-work issue again. I had it and it went away. Now it's back. I checked the "lock" switch. That's not it. When I hit the switch on the drivers door for the passenger window, I hear a click over at the passenger door. Some sort of signal is getting over there but the window doesn't move. What's my next step? All the other windows work with all the associated switches.

/Check the grounds. The window relays always have power applied so the switches apply a ground to the other side of the relays. When you use the main control on the drivers door the ground goes directly from that switch to the door switch. When you use the door switch it uses the same ground but it comes through the I/P junction box and the fuse block on the left side of the dash then through the lockout switch. I had the same problem and I just grounded it in the door. I never use the lockout switchso I didn't care. But now I have the same problem in a different door. This time I'll pull the plugs off and clean the contacts. I have access to the wiring diagrams but I can't find anything that shows me the pinout on the connectors. Any idea where I can those?

 

[justirv]

I pulled the door card. Nobody had been there before (~18 years). The consul on the passenger side that holds the window and lock buttons doesn't pop out. There is a screw inside. Don't try to pry it out, you will break the tab. You can take the DC out and then reach around and unscrew the front mounting point.
Results - @justirv had it correct.... the window was stuck enough that the motor could not start the movement. I checked the 2 pin connector going to the window motor and it was getting +/- 11.5 volts using the switch. So I knew the controls/etc. were working. I losened the regulator and futz around and got it to start working. I guess that's it for now. Didn't really find the root cause. Taking the complete regulator/etc. out looks like huge PITA so I didn't go there. I bet the regulator is not that well aligned with the door frame because the motor slows down in mid motion on the way up.

If you decide to go the route of someday replacing the regulator, motor, and track assemblies, its not too bad, just prep and patience. I replaced all 4 which I purchased from 1A Auto. I think they have a video to help out, as well as YT.