2003 Tahoe coolant system leak or head gasket leak?

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tomloans

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I never understood building up a dam versus using sealant on the underside of the flaps. Maybe it's so they're more easily removable for servicing? I don't know. Maybe do both and be covered
I never understood building up a dam versus using sealant on the underside of the flaps. Maybe it's so they're more easily removable for servicing? I don't know. Maybe do both and be covered for anything.
I don't understand it either. The thought just hit me that if sealed up, maybe it gets too hot and things start to melt?
 
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tomloans

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OK it took me about 4 methodical, careful and slow hours of removing organizing and cleaning to get to a place where I am now ready to remove the intake manifold (brake vacuum hose is still attached and hose from throttle body - will take off tomorrow).
 

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iamdub

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OK it took me about 4 methodical, careful and slow hours of removing organizing and cleaning to get to a place where I am now ready to remove the intake manifold (brake vacuum hose is still attached and hose from throttle body - will take off tomorrow).

It's easier and safer to leave the brake booster hose attached to the manifold and disconnect it from the booster.

You're gonna have to lift up on the wire harness and work the manifold forward, set it down, move the harness up and back some, set it down, lift and move the manifold forward, etc. and repeat until it's out. Or, if you can get enough slack, you can bungee the harness up to the cowl or wiper arm.

We'll address them wire nuts later. lol
 
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tomloans

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It's easier and safer to leave the brake booster hose attached to the manifold and disconnect it from the booster.

You're gonna have to lift up on the wire harness and work the manifold forward, set it down, move the harness up and back some, set it down, lift and move the manifold forward, etc. and repeat until it's out. Or, if you can get enough slack, you can bungee the harness up to the cowl or wiper arm.

We'll address them wire nuts later. lol
I can't tell you how thankful I am for your input.
 

Fless

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Watch that heater hose going into the light colored tee up by the firewall. It looks like it's coming loose from the quick-connect.

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tomloans

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I just replace those t connectors and they already leak sometimes. Terrible design and yes I will be careful. I am think of just removing them altogether and just have heat in the front vents.
 

Tonyrodz

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I just replace those t connectors and they already leak sometimes. Terrible design and yes I will be careful. I am think of just removing them altogether and just have heat in the front vents.
Did you use oem connectors?
 

mattbta

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Decades ago on my 99 30th Anniversary Trans AM (LS1/5.7), a popular mod was to put an LS6 intake manifold on. Everyone said, buy an Oil Pressure Sending Unit - you're going to break yours putting the intake on. 21 year old me was like, nah, I got this. I broke it. LOL.

For whatever reason, I haven't broken it on the Tahoe despite having the intake off numerous times. Regardless, if the sensor is original, I recommend having an OEM unit on hand to install. So much easier with all the stuff off the top.
 

mattt

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Another one to consider for replacement is the cam position sensor that's right next to the oil pressure sending unit at the rear of the intake manifold. Mostly that is to avoid the potential oil leak from the cam position sensor sealing O-ring.

It's unfortunate that GM does not offer the O-ring seal by itself for replacement on the cam sensor and crank sensor for that matter, since those sensors rarely fail. The O-ring is more likely to allow an oil leak before the sensor itself goes out.
 

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