I bought this used over the summer with 213k miles on it. It had a trailer brake controller I removed because I don't tow anything with trailer brakes. They is the only aftermarket hardware I know of. 3 weeks ago my wife went to go start it, and it was completely dead. I had the battery and alternate tested. Wally word said battery was bad. Bough a new one. 3 days after, I was dead again, I took it back, thy charged it, and they said it was a bad battery. It was working for us all week for the holidays, but this morning it was dead agin. I had been out an hour before, and it had enough power to lock/unlock doors, but an hr later NOHING Would turn on. I had read there was a recall on the steering wheel position sensor? Lmk what you all think
2003 Yukon battery drain.
- Thread starter RAWVORTEC
- Start date
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MrBalll
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Can't provide any help, but I have the same problem. I have had my Tahoe for five years and have probably gone through at least one battery a year. This year I'm on my third.
I just recently bought a battery trickle charger since the Tahoe mainly sits in my garage.
May be a pain in the butt, but it's cheaper than buying a new battery as often as you may need to.
Maybe someone will have a solution.
I just recently bought a battery trickle charger since the Tahoe mainly sits in my garage.
May be a pain in the butt, but it's cheaper than buying a new battery as often as you may need to.
Maybe someone will have a solution.
about20ninj45
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Get yourself an ohm meter / amp clamp and put it in series with the positive battery cable. Wait up to 40 mind for the trucks electronics to go to sleep. Check your resting current, it should be between .35ma and .80ma. Anything above this means you have a parasitic draw being caused by something in the vehicle not going to sleep. While observing your current, start pulling fuses under the hood and in the truck, to see which circuit is causing the parasitic draw.
So I tried all of this and I bought a circuit tool( looks like a screwdriver and lights up when there's a draw). I went through every fuse. Under the hood, driver side panel and the on under dash next to steering column. Is there anywhere else to look?? I don't want to have to give this to a shop...
about20ninj45
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I've been having some recent issues also. Not always dead but the start seems weaker then expected. Alt is new, battery was a couple years old so I just replaced it. Then it went dead again so I started investigating. Idle voltage is low 14s, under full load high 13s. Amp draw is 3A after key kill or remote press indicating BCM is awake. It shuts off after a short period and my draw was showing zero after that. So not sure what is going on. Havent had time to fool with it anymore.
about20ninj45
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You need to look for milliamps and not amp nor voltage. .5 amps is 500 milliamps which is more than enough to kill a battery that sits. Acceptable current draw on these vehicles is .35 milliamps and anything above that will drain a battery faster.
Had this taken to a guy that specializes in electronics(excluding dvd/remote install type stuff). He found its coming from the cluster and charged my a reasonable $87 over a 2 day period. He suggested Southern Electronics in Richmond, VA. They said $235... I need to know if there's a less expensive route. I am picking the yukon up later, and I'll see if he can get me his discount possibly. But WTH!!
So I found http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-06-Repai...ent-Cluster-Gauge-Stepper-Motor-/391354575112 this online and hes has a 99.9% satisfaction rating and has sold over 24k items. I may go this route.
It was showing 3.77 for the bcm then it would drop to 0.00 so Im not sure why it was showing anything for the PCM and radio memories....
