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What it means is that there is a pattern here that started with defrost and is now with a/c and the common denominator is the a/c compressor and clutch. Take the belt off, like has been said already, and if noise is gone, then guess what, you get to spend money or disconnect low pressure switch at the accumulator to shut down the compressor and clutch.
For me to be 100% certain, I would need to be there, but everything is pointing at the a/c compressor and clutch.
I am going to make a video of it since I am the only one that leaves the house at this time. Plus she knows I need this truck to be working when I they tell us you have to be back at the office before the quarantine. Plus I am sure she will want her AC when we go to Arizona to visit family in September.She will buy in to it if she wants cold air and to keep away from what will happen if the clutch and compressor seize up and throw the belt and that belt could get tangled in the other belt and then guess what, you are broke down. Not gonna happen in your driveway I can tell you that. If you only hear the noise when a/c is on, then you are there. Show her with the belt on and then take the belt off and show her.
I had said earlier that the accumulator and orifice need replaced and flush the system. When you go looking up parts you will need to make sure you select for what you have. You have not said if you have separate controls for rear a/c and things like that, that will make a difference in parts.
Years ago, in KC, Mo., I did a lot of R12 a/c work and I had a vacuum pump then but no more. Mostly complete a/c evac and recharge machines out there now. You can just do the work and let a shop evac and recharge. You can also ask them if they will reclaim the refrigerant for you and hold in machine till you do the parts. Or you could go rogue and just open the system but that isn't kosher.