2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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I've only used it once but it worked fine. The only thing is you have to place the tool flat on the sidewall, not just point it at the valve stem. When I first bought it, I couldn't get it to work. Fast forward to a couple months ago, I watched a video and they showed it sitting flat on the sidewall. It worked on my Yukon anyway.

Its a very simple tool.

yep...coworker of mine has one of those. seem to remember him saying it was like 10bux and worked on his 2018 and on my 2012

I have one and it works well for me too.


Wow, lots of good reviews cool it's ordered! I think I'll just have Discount tire R&R the sensors from the LTZ20s to the new ones because I have a good relationship with them and have to throw them some money occasionally, plus I want the new setup rebalanced and I'm lazy.
 

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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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Haven't really pushed this thing much since I'm trying to spend all my free time on the other truck but last night a newer Ram 1500 with HIDs in reflector housings was attempting a ricer-flyby and had to be stopped. I was just leaving a stop and getting up to cruise speed when I saw him weave lanes and start trying to run me down. I was doing around 50mph in third when I decided to let him have it and ran up to 96mph and what I thought was 7k or right there at 7k when I looked at the dash tach. However, according to HPT I only pushed to 5,900 rpm which is obviously contradictory to what I saw on the dash cluster. I do occasionally have issues with HPT logging only partial data, it's as if it only decides to log certain channels despite the channels selected being supported by this ECU. This particular log was one of those and you can see in the attached picture that the channel area has blank rows that should have channels in them.

Anyway, my main concern is that I need to figure out if the cluster or HPT is lying about RPM because there's no reason to have a 7k tach if it's really just a reskin that doesn't give accurate data.
 

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randeez

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sometimes i have to unplug the hptuners thingy from obd and computer completely and plug it back in..it just clitches and only shows what it wants.... usually if ive been logging stop it, and restart without ever closing program

also, why is your maf reading so high? what size intake tube are you using?
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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sometimes i have to unplug the hptuners thingy from obd and computer completely and plug it back in..it just clitches and only shows what it wants.... usually if ive been logging stop it, and restart without ever closing program

also, why is your maf reading so high? what size intake tube are you using?

Yeah I am bad about leaving the OBD dude in too long, I've found that's one of the main culprits for fail to write.

Its whatever AFE intake tube came with the CAI. It's 4" at the TB connection but necks down to 3.5 I think for the factory MAF.
 
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Dantheman1540

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o it uses the cylinder housing and all in one?

Yeah, one big tube that connects to the tube style maf and then the cone filter connectors to that. I still have weird startup issues, one day it will run crazy lean the next rich, and the next surging and nearly stalling out. I re-enabled the MAF hoping that would help but doesn't seem like it did, sometimes it starts up and drives perfectly. I think part of the issue is possibly a cold start misfire but I hadn't gotten a good log showing misfires yet.
 

randeez

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got a pic of under the hood?
as you know, in a perfect world you should have some length of pipe the same diameter in front of and behind the maf.
with the larger pipe after the air immediately expands. can that maf be swapped to a card style in the same size pipe? or im sure aftermarket may have same style in diff diameter pipe.

tuning idle in SD is a real pita, tuning it with a clean maf signal should be simple - unless its jumping all around at idle (dirty maf signal)
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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got a pic of under the hood?
as you know, in a perfect world you should have some length of pipe the same diameter in front of and behind the maf.
with the larger pipe after the air immediately expands. can that maf be swapped to a card style in the same size pipe? or im sure aftermarket may have same style in diff diameter pipe.

tuning idle in SD is a real pita, tuning it with a clean maf signal should be simple - unless its jumping all around at idle (dirty maf signal)

I'll get a pic in a bit, it idles perfectly except for the first 90seconds after startup and not all the time does it act bad. Its not just idle during that 90seconds either it will buck and jerk when trying to drive as well.
 

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