2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

[Dantheman1540]

Glad to see that sticker back on your Tahoe. No better placement!

Thanks I feel if every vehicle was stick still wed have more drivers actually paying attention to the road.


New bump stops on the way if these aren't long enough I'll experiment with adding a pad to the bump stop contact point on the axle. Maybe reuse the short bump stops I have and have bump stops touch bump stops .

Never knew a big shaft and a big butt would cause all these problems

 

[iamdub]

@iamdub ok buddy I have some more drive shaft angle measurements for you to help me make sense of. I had a hell of a time trying to get the device to be on a flat surface so here we go.

First 2 are the output from trans. Third and forth pic are rear end side.

Don't mind the cat in the back. View attachment 253909 View attachment 253906 View attachment 253907 View attachment 253908

First off, the angle of the driveshaft itself is irrelevant. The .2° discrepancy for each end could be a slight inaccuracy in the level or even a slight warp in the tube or maybe thicker paint on one end. It's likely a tiny piece of dirt. Again, those don't matter.

Second, either the pics uploaded in reverse of your intent or you got mixed up. The first two are definitely the rear end and the second two are the trans output.

I'm thinking (hoping!) the rear end reading is inaccurate. That casting likely isn't a surface perpendicular to the axis of the yoke. If it is accurate, then your rear is pointed up way too much and you should be feeling some bad vibes and possibly hearing some roaring. It would rotate up a little more under hard acceleration, which fixing may make the difference in it contacting that EVAP canister bracket.

What I did on Jeeps was to remove one of the U-bolt straps, clean the surface, and stick the angle finder to that. Those are machined surfaces intended to be perpendicular to the yoke's axis. Try that and see what numbers you get and then you'll know what needs to be done.

 

[Dantheman1540]

First off, the angle of the driveshaft itself is irrelevant. The .2° discrepancy for each end could be a slight inaccuracy in the level or even a slight warp in the tube or maybe thicker paint on one end. It's likely a tiny piece of dirt. Again, those don't matter.

Second, either the pics uploaded in reverse of your intent or you got mixed up. The first two are definitely the rear end and the second two are the trans output.

I'm thinking (hoping!) the rear end reading is inaccurate. That casting likely isn't a surface perpendicular to the axis of the yoke. If it is accurate, then your rear is pointed up way too much and you should be feeling some bad vibes and possibly hearing some roaring. It would rotate up a little more under hard acceleration, which fixing may make the difference in it contacting that EVAP canister bracket.

What I did on Jeeps was to remove one of the U-bolt straps, clean the surface, and stick the angle finder to that. Those are machined surfaces intended to be perpendicular to the yoke's axis. Try that and see what numbers you get and then you'll know what needs to be done.

You are correct about the pictures uploading backwards. Ok trying this now.

 

[Dantheman1540]

@iamdub ok I thought I understood but I will have to pull the shaft off the rear to set the level here if that's what your talking about.

 

[iamdub]

@iamdub ok I thought I understood but I will have to pull the shaft off the rear to set the level here if that's what your talking about. View attachment 253922

Well, if you've already removed both straps, then go ahead and remove the ones on the other side and remove the shaft. MARK THE U-JOINTS TO THE YOKES SO IT'LL GO BACK EXACTLY AS IT CAME APART, although you shouldn't have to spin it any.

What I meant was to remove one bolt of one strap, loosen the other bolt and swing the strap outta the way so you can stick your level to that one flat surface. Or hold it if it's not enough surface for the magnet to grab. Removing the shaft from the yoke altogether and spanning the two flats with your level is that much better. Also, you want those two flats to be perpendicular to the ground. Set the parking brake and put the trans in neutral so you can rotate it as necessary.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Well, if you've already removed both straps, then go ahead and remove the ones on the other side and remove the shaft. MARK THE U-JOINTS TO THE YOKES SO IT'LL GO BACK EXACTLY AS IT CAME APART, although you shouldn't have to spin it any.

What I meant was to remove one bolt of one strap, loosen the other bolt and swing the strap outta the way so you can stick your level to that one flat surface. Or hold it if it's not enough surface for the magnet to grab. Removing the shaft from the yoke altogether and spanning the two flats with your level is that much better. Also, you want those two flats to be perpendicular to the ground. Set the parking brake and put the trans in neutral so you can rotate it as necessary.

Ok heres new pics I think I did it right. It's very difficult to take a pic one handed.

 

[iamdub]

Just found this and breezed through it. It covers it all pretty well:

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pinionangles.shtml

 

[randeez]

you want to yoke (or whatever surface your measuring) perpendicular to the ground, but you also want the axle to be sitting at ride height. the uneven length bars on these will rotate the rear end as it goes through its motion

 

[iamdub]

Ok heres new pics I think I did it right. It's very difficult to take a pic one handed.View attachment 253923 View attachment 253924 View attachment 253925

That 6.4-6.5, that's how much it's angled UP? So if you rotated the pinion downward, that angle number would decrease? Or, is it angled DOWN 6.4-6.5 and rotating the pinion UP would make the number decrease?

 

[Dantheman1540]

That 6.4-6.5, that's how much it's angled UP? So if you rotated the pinion downward, that angle number would decrease? Or, is it angled DOWN 6.4-6.5 and rotating the pinion UP would make the number decrease?

Ok I skimmed the ranger station article and I'm fairly certain that is angled down 6.5* as the little arrow on the device is pointing down. Let me go look at it again it's hard to tell anything when your upside down under it.


@randeez it is at ride height for the 6.5* measurement which means during acceleration it would likely be in the sweet spot of 1-3* correct?