2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

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randeez

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lol yea, talking with MM they said the setup im on now should be good for 1500hp

actually have an -8an to the back of the intake but the catchcan restricts it way down and they said dont worry about it
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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lol yea, talking with MM they said the setup im on now should be good for 1500hp

actually have an -8an to the back of the intake but the catchcan restricts it way down and they said dont worry about it


I think mine is -8 back as well its been a while since I've looked at it. I don't even want 1,000hp so I should be setup for good on that truck. This budget can was more of something to do than anything.
 

BlackedOutHoe

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Another 3k, another oil change. Also swapped my silverado ECU out and the original Tahoe one back in after the almost bricked accident. Even put in a budget catch can finally and some cool incognito decals a buddy whipped up for me.

The catch can bracket is temporary to see if I like it there. If I do I'll clean it up and make it look good.
View attachment 256062 View attachment 256060 View attachment 256059 View attachment 256061 View attachment 256058

this is the same place i put my CC, just have it facing the radiator vs firewall. Great minds, I tell ya.
 

iamdub

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That's interesting I didn't know there was a fresh air intake for the valve covers. Seems to me it ends up being a second source of oil in the intake as the hose was full of oil when I removed it.

That port on the PS valve cover should be sucking IN, not blowing out, so the oily air inside of it should not be able to flow out and into the intake duct. It's supposed to let the crankcase pull in filtered air from the intake duct. I'd imagine this to only really work at idle/closed throttle when vacuum is at a minimum. I've never investigated, but maybe there's a check valve in it (I don't see how it'd work without a check valve) and it's stuck open, letting intake vacuum suck oily air out of it and into your clean air intake tract?


I was planning to connect both sides to the can and eliminating the port on the top of the intake and having them both run back to the intake tube.

This wouldn't work. Well, it'd kinda work, but only cuz the PCV outlet (the port on the DS valve cover) and the vacuum in the intake tube would overpower the PS trying to draw air in. If anything, you should route it to the port on the manifold so it'd be behind the TB. If you route it going into the intake tube, ahead of the TB, that oily air would eventually gunk up the TB.


If one side is for fresh air then why do most people vent both valve covers to a single can then back to the intake?

I've never polled the masses, but I'd have to guess that if most people do this, it's because most don't know how the system is supposed to work. It'll still mostly work, but not as efficient as it could, as it was designed. The factory design works very well at evacuating the crankcase and reprocessing the gases without venting to atmosphere so you have to smell the oil- why screw with it? The problem is that the LS moves excess oil through the PCV system. You just need to filter this oil from the air as it flows in it's originally designed form, not try to completely change the flow characteristics.


My Silverado has dual -10an to a single can then -10 back to the intake but also has the ability to vent to the atmosphere under heavy boost.

Sounds like the same as outlined above- lesser efficient due to the PCV overpowering the fresh air inlet. With boost, all bets are off and everything changes. So, the "lesser efficient" tied-together valve covers only comes into play when not in boost.


The previous owner had the passenger valve cover connected directly to the intake tube so I did the same just because it was easy and I didn't feel like doing a catch can at the time.

This is how it is from the factory. So, the PO didn't change anything here or take any shortcuts.


Main reason I got a catch can was to stop oil getting in the intake tube and the TB and since that was the only connection in front of the TB that could allow oil to enter I figured I'd start with putting the can there and later route the driver side to it aswell

IMO, I'd stick to the factory design and just filter that one circuit- the dirty side that SHOULD have oil in it (although it's a lot/too much). If the other side is blowing oil into the intake, then I'm inclined to think there's a problem over there, like the stuck check valve theory previously mentioned. My system is stock but with a catch can on the dirty side. I run mine hard, so lots of engine load with WOT and high RPM. My intake tube is clean and dry and I consistently drain the same amount from my CC. I get no oily vapor smells after a hard run.


I do have a fairly significant oil consumption issue probably about a quart every 1,500 miles and the truck do not leak a drop so I thought maybe this would help that.

Either your engine is well-worn (or rings are just not sealing as well as they should) and/or you consistently drive like a bat outta hell and/or your PCV system has a problem. All of which are contributing factors to excess oil consumption.
 
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Dantheman1540

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That port on the PS valve cover should be sucking IN, not blowing out, so the oily air inside of it should not be able to flow out and into the intake duct. It's supposed to let the crankcase pull in filtered air from the intake duct. I'd imagine this to only really work at idle/closed throttle when vacuum is at a minimum. I've never investigated, but maybe there's a check valve in it (I don't see how it'd work without a check valve) and it's stuck open, letting intake vacuum suck oily air out of it and into your clean air intake tract?




This wouldn't work. Well, it'd kinda work, but only cuz the PCV outlet (the port on the DS valve cover) and the vacuum in the intake tube would overpower the PS trying to draw air in. If anything, you should route it to the port on the manifold so it'd be behind the TB. If you route it going into the intake tube, ahead of the TB, that oily air would eventually gunk up the TB.




I've never polled the masses, but I'd have to guess that if most people do this, it's because most don't know how the system is supposed to work. It'll still mostly work, but not as efficient as it could, as it was designed. The factory design works very well at evacuating the crankcase and reprocessing the gases without venting to atmosphere so you have to smell the oil- why screw with it? The problem is that the LS moves excess oil through the PCV system. You just need to filter this oil from the air as it flows in it's originally designed form, not try to completely change the flow characteristics.




Sounds like the same as outlined above- lesser efficient due to the PCV overpowering the fresh air inlet. With boost, all bets are off and everything changes. So, the "lesser efficient" tied-together valve covers only comes into play when not in boost.




This is how it is from the factory. So, the PO didn't change anything here or take any shortcuts.




IMO, I'd stick to the factory design and just filter that one circuit- the dirty side that SHOULD have oil in it (although it's a lot/too much). If the other side is blowing oil into the intake, then I'm inclined to think there's a problem over there, like the stuck check valve theory previously mentioned. My system is stock but with a catch can on the dirty side. I run mine hard, so lots of engine load with WOT and high RPM. My intake tube is clean and dry and I consistently drain the same amount from my CC. I get no oily vapor smells after a hard run.




Either your engine is well-worn (or rings are just not sealing as well as they should) and/or you consistently drive like a bat outta hell and/or your PCV system has a problem. All of which are contributing factors to excess oil consumption.

You sure get a cookie for the massive amount of replies.

The MM can in my silverado is setup exactly how they suggest for a boosted setup with a draft can and works fantastic so I'm not touching that.

Engine is likely well worn the PO said it was "Refreshed with the cam and heads upgrade" which likely means the bottom end is untouched. Really not concerned because it runs great and the oil/filter is squeaky clean. Might run a compression leak down test one day for fun. I'm leaning more towards PCV problems since there's oil in the intake and it's not leaking a drop. I have a driver side valve cover on my shelf and I looked at it today I see no check valve and there's certainly not one in the hose that was attached which could explain the oil issue.

I have yet to check the driver side PCV because I ran out of hose to attach it to the can but that will happen sometime soon.

I still don't see the point of the Clean air side when it could just suck oily air back in from the can when it's under vacuum not preasure and not have a chance of a check valve failing and causing oil back into the intake.

For now I will run the can on the passenger side only for a few weeks and record the following.

-amount of oil collected
-engine oil consumption/disappearance
-other notable irregularities


After those are determined I'll decide which way to hook it up next or if this can is total garbage just put it back to the way it was.
 

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