2005 Tahoe issue after driving for awhile

[20thcentboy]

I have a 05 Tahoe over 300 thousand miles 4.8 2wd.
It always starts up fine but either after a long drive or short city driving like 30 minutes it wants to struggle taking off until I hit the gas fairly heavy, then it drives well afterwards for a bit. A friend mentioned it could be the fuel pump, which I have not changed. Could it be another issue? If it is the fuel pump does anyone here have any tips on replacing it. Thanks for lending me your thoughts.

 

[OR VietVet]

I would not worry about changing it till you need it but if you are not mechanically inclined, it is not for the faint at heart because of the evap parts to deal with too and dropping it is easier than the reinstall, especially without a lift. Get a fuel pressure gauge with a long enough hose to attach at the w/s and watch while driving. You can rent the gauge too. Need to check for clogged exhaust. How long since MAF changed or cleaned? How long since new plugs and wires and throttle bore cleaning? Need some answers to basics first.

By the way, you are either very busy person or like to hang back in the shadows, with only 4 posts in 13 years.

 

[20thcentboy]

Thanks for the info. I have cleaned the MAF recently in the last 3 months. I have the new plugs but haven't changed them yet. Yes I am a busy person. No throttle body cleaning and the wires haven't been changed in awhile when the engine got swapped out. Where would I check for a clogged exhaust? I'm not a motor head but just dangerous enough to fix some things on this ride. Also what's the "w/s" for this hose attachment for the fuel pressure? I did recently clean my air box and new filter, also replaced a EVAP box that cleared several codes. No codes now or idiot lights on the dash. Also, this problem has been going on for years but this Tahoe just keeps going. Seems worse in the summer months but does it in the coldest temperatures too.

 

[OR VietVet]

Attach the fuel pressure gauge dial to the w/s with tape so you can see while driving. You need a talented tech to monitor a scanner live feed while driving. With no CEL, you need to get ready for a Parts Cannon approach at the problem or see what a good tech finds and address that. So, second engine must mean you like the vehicle. If it is paid off and I bet it is, and it meets your needs and is not rusted out or trashed inside, keep it and count your blessings.

 

[20thcentboy]

Thanks for the information very much. When I get unbusy I will setup the gauge and record the readings. I have been thinking of trading the hoe in recently looking at the prices of the fuel pumps. I've had this SUV since it had 100 miles on it from the dealership so it's kinda like a family member almost. Hope You're have an update within the month.

 

[OR VietVet]

You can start out with a reading just at idle when you do a cold start. Then what the reading is when it warms up at idle. Then what it does when accelerate sitting still and then go drive it. Try to do a video of all this and then download at you tube and post the video link here.

 

[Donal]

Also what's the "w/s" for this hose attachment for the fuel pressure?

Windshield, so you can determine if the fuel pump is maintaining pressure. Maybe clean the throttle plate and passage behind. Use choke cleaner or such and a clean rag. You can hold the plate open when ignition is off. Then replace the spark plugs starting with number 8.

 

[nonickatall]

It is possible that it's the fuel pump, but I think it's not very likely.

When a fuel pump dies, it makes it sudden or has problems no matter if cold or warm.

If a car runs cold good and warm not, it's often a problem of the temperature related sensors, which can be the oxygen sensor or engine temperature sensor. If the oxygen sensor for example is not good anymore and this is the part which wear, then you have cold a good engine running, because the oxygen sensor signal is not interpreated by the engine Controller until it riches a certain temperature.

If the exhaust is clogged, it is also a problem which you have mostly at cold and warm situations and you can feel it, because the engine never reach power, especially in higher RPM situations.

I would first unplugged the oxygen sensors and look what happens.

Or exchange them, there are not so expensive an easy to swap.

 

[20thcentboy]

It is possible that it's the fuel pump, but I think it's not very likely.

When a fuel pump dies, it makes it sudden or has problems no matter if cold or warm.

If a car runs cold good and warm not, it's often a problem of the temperature related sensors, which can be the oxygen sensor or engine temperature sensor. If the oxygen sensor for example is not good anymore and this is the part which wear, then you have cold a good engine running, because the oxygen sensor signal is not interpreated by the engine Controller until it riches a certain temperature.

If the exhaust is clogged, it is also a problem which you have mostly at cold and warm situations and you can feel it, because the engine never reach power, especially in higher RPM situations.

I would first unplugged the oxygen sensors and look what happens.

Or exchange them, there are not so expensive an easy to swap.

I do have new oxygen sensors too. I really need time to put this stuff on. Thanks for that breakdown.