Ok so i got a used one that used to be used by the fire department the engine i was told was rebuilt it has 2322.5 engine hours and 93130 miles. Got it about in 2019. So i had a small leak in the back for the back a/c. And my dumb ass drove it and it had no coolant cracked the radiator. My dad at the time thought it was something else thats part of the engine cant remember so it sat for a year then I replaced the thermostat and water pump hoping it was that nope. But thermostat was bad so no harm done. Saved up enough to get it looked at i cracked the radiator so replaced that and the fan. Now A/c worked but now it doesnt and it clicks if turned on( if I recharge it will that make it blow cold and not click?) . Took it on a road trip to Tallahassee Florida from tampa. Drove good used the cruise control alot of drive. (Recently when I stop or speed up it feels like it's lagging and two times when put key in to start it stutters a little but last time it did ALOT OF WHITE smoke came out from under the hood truck sounded like it was being choked I opened hood looked like the smoke was comeing from emission box but it started right up and drove after any thoughts could those two be connected? Like I watch my dad pull that wire to rev the engine does that ever need replacing?) Since i got it the front lights go off when I hit a bump and lately they take awhile to turn on auto also has never worked truck still has strobe and siren) also does the 2006 chevy tahoe take regular gas the 87? Im a 28 year old female have done alot of work on many cars with my dad but he passed this year so I have to figure out problems myself cant afford the shops $100 just to figure out the problem. Like October i had to get breaks and rotors was driving with no breaks lol normally I would do it with my dad but he used the air compressor tools and I couldnt even make the nut budge so took it to mavis cost me over $600 I was like holy shit and looking at the bill it was like they used the most expensive parts and the labor was wow. I wish there was a place where u bring ur parts and they have the tools and u pay to use their tools and do it urself and if u need help they will for a fee u know id use that place alot I love working on cars Id mostly need help with loosening things Im weak lol. I had a an early 2000s Santa Fe My dad had my do the power steering hose alone didnt check after we drove it we learned how weak i was that day hose flew off about 4 min into driving. But out of all the used vehicles ive had Tahoe is my fav so I want to keep her running. Any advice is welcome. Thanks for reading.
2006 chevy Tahoe problems
- Thread starter Chels28
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- 2006 chevy tahoe
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PNWYukon
Full Access Member
That sounds like a bunch of little problems. Air conditioner problems can be frustrating and expensive. You really should find a trustworthy local mechanic that does A/C and have them vacuum test the system and recharge it.
You really need to find a diagnostic tool/code reader and see if it can tell you anything about your stuttering issues. A lot of Autoparts stores will do a code read for free and that will atleast get you going on diagnosis.
If your lights go off when you hit a bump, there must be an electrical short or bad connection somewhere. Check the fuse box for any corrosion.
What are the specs for you Tahoe? If you post a picture of your RPO code sticker inside your glove box we can help you figure that out.
That wire to rev the engine must have been the throttle cable, but your 2006 should be electronic. Post a photo of your engine bay area.
For breaking bolts free and tightening them, you have to get a long breaker bar or a 3-4 foot piece of pipe to add to your ratchet to give you the leverage.
You really need to find a diagnostic tool/code reader and see if it can tell you anything about your stuttering issues. A lot of Autoparts stores will do a code read for free and that will atleast get you going on diagnosis.
If your lights go off when you hit a bump, there must be an electrical short or bad connection somewhere. Check the fuse box for any corrosion.
What are the specs for you Tahoe? If you post a picture of your RPO code sticker inside your glove box we can help you figure that out.
That wire to rev the engine must have been the throttle cable, but your 2006 should be electronic. Post a photo of your engine bay area.
For breaking bolts free and tightening them, you have to get a long breaker bar or a 3-4 foot piece of pipe to add to your ratchet to give you the leverage.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Who do we know over that way with a Tech-2? Nate and Dawn have 400s and 900s, don't think they have Tech-2s. @dkknaebel @bigfootchiro @SRQYukon
Dawn, you guys have a manifold and vacuum pump and stuff to check this truck out?
Dawn, you guys have a manifold and vacuum pump and stuff to check this truck out?
Unfortunately the inside code reader doesnt work I had the check engine light turn on so I went to advance auto and they hooked it up the port wouldnt work. So I did go to a small mechanic shop I think he said the thermostat wasnt timed right to gov standard but it does work. I did put in a brand new alternator myself God Lord that was one of the worst so many different size nuts all the unhooking and trying it was rusted stuck took me 6 hours in a fire station parking lot lol. Cause it died on me at a light in oldsmar. I will take pics
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
Fire Department, that was a cop car, a PPV!
PNWYukon
Full Access Member
Oh no, that could mean they have done a lot of extra wiring in there and something could be messed up. If the ODB port is not working check the fuses first. Maybe peek under and see how the wiring looks on the back of the plug too.
PNWYukon
Full Access Member
Here's a few of those codes and what they mean for your rig:
L59 : ENGINE, GAS, 8 CYL, 5.3L
M30 : TRANSMISSION, AUTO 4 SPD, HMD, 4L60E, ELECTRONIC
GT4 : AXLE REAR, 3.73 RATIO (DUP WITH 5 X 1)
G80 : AXLE POSITRACTION, LIMITED SLIP
JH2 : HYD POWER, DISC/DISC, 7,200 LBS
KUP : THROTTLE CONTROL ELECTRONIC
KW1 : Alternator/GENERATOR, 160 AMP
PZZ : Plate Front Underbody, Skid
PPV: Vehicle Police, Package
QCP : TIRE ALL P255/70R16 109H BW R/PE ST TL ALS
T62 : LAMP SYSTEM DAYTIME RUNNING - DELETE
T78 : HEADLAMP CONTROL - DELETE
Z56 : CHASSIS PACKAGE POLICE CONVERSION
L59 : ENGINE, GAS, 8 CYL, 5.3L
M30 : TRANSMISSION, AUTO 4 SPD, HMD, 4L60E, ELECTRONIC
GT4 : AXLE REAR, 3.73 RATIO (DUP WITH 5 X 1)
G80 : AXLE POSITRACTION, LIMITED SLIP
JH2 : HYD POWER, DISC/DISC, 7,200 LBS
KUP : THROTTLE CONTROL ELECTRONIC
KW1 : Alternator/GENERATOR, 160 AMP
PZZ : Plate Front Underbody, Skid
PPV: Vehicle Police, Package
QCP : TIRE ALL P255/70R16 109H BW R/PE ST TL ALS
T62 : LAMP SYSTEM DAYTIME RUNNING - DELETE
T78 : HEADLAMP CONTROL - DELETE
Z56 : CHASSIS PACKAGE POLICE CONVERSION
TollKeeper
Full Access Member
Well, the diagnostic port not working is likely just a blown fuse. I think its wired with the cigarette/12v socket. Check and see if all your 12v sockets are working, and if not, find the fuse.
A Tech2, since it has an option to be wired straight to a battery, or some other 12v source, can still work.
A Tech2, since it has an option to be wired straight to a battery, or some other 12v source, can still work.
Mudsport96
Full Access Member
Well the bonus is it is a flex fuel vehicle so regular 87 fuel or even e85.. basically anything except diesel fuel will work.
The AC may just need charging but if it is low because it leaks, no point in doing that. Sometimes you have to take it to a mechanic.
The lights going out on bumps sounds like either a bad switch, or a wiring problem. Having owned a former police package Caprice several years ago, i can tell you that the conversions are done on the cheap. So i would start with replacing the switch as that is the most straightforward thing to do... after that it is time to chase wiring. I would start by removing the strobes, patching up damaged wire and using silicone to plug holes in headlight and taillight housings.
The AC may just need charging but if it is low because it leaks, no point in doing that. Sometimes you have to take it to a mechanic.
The lights going out on bumps sounds like either a bad switch, or a wiring problem. Having owned a former police package Caprice several years ago, i can tell you that the conversions are done on the cheap. So i would start with replacing the switch as that is the most straightforward thing to do... after that it is time to chase wiring. I would start by removing the strobes, patching up damaged wire and using silicone to plug holes in headlight and taillight housings.
