2006 Tahoe. Will start but won’t run.

[Charles_Colfax]

I actually did all that a while ago, then my username spazzed and I had to start over.

Lemme do a little updating...

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[Charles_Colfax]

I have a 2006 Chevy Tahoe that I have had for a year or so. I pulled it in my garage to put replacement rocker panels in.i put it on ramps on one side to make it easier for myself. I put the drivers side in Welded it pulled it off the ramps to put the ramps on the other side. I just got it done. Went smooth. When I got it completely done I went to pull it off the ramps it would start but for only a split second before shutting off. Now I’ve heard horror stories about people frying computers while welding if you didn’t take the ground off the battery. So I made sure to do that each time I welded. Also with the key on my windows don’t work. And as soon as you plug the battery back up the radio is always on no matter the key position. I would really appreciate some help on this one. Also I have checked all fuses.

Similar problem here...
06 Z71 Suburban
105k miles
5.3/4L60e yada yada yada
No engine/drivetrain mods

3" spacers/HD coils in the rear
Adjustable rear track bar/panhard bar
Indexed keys with a couple turns in the front
SpindleSource UCA's, OE replacement LCA's

Recently had the front end back apart to cut some mounting tabs off the UCA's and add 2" wheel spacers to resolve a tire rub problem.
What should have been a 1 day job turned in to a week because of rain and my work schedule.
Resulting in the truck being left on a jackstand for several days on each side (I did them one side at a time).

Because it has been hot, each day when I went out to the truck to work on it I would start it, let it run a few minutes, open the windows and the sunroof, then shut it down.

Yesterday I started that process and the battery was dead as hammer.
The truck had been run and started fine two days prior.

After a little time on the battery charger (a real one... 250amp Matco wheeled charger) I hit the key and get "crank-crank-
I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key to "On", but not all the way to "Start".

I swapped the fuel pump relay with a known good one, same result.
Verified that the 10amp fuse next to the relay was good.

VROOM... dies"

Fuel tank is FULL. Yet gauge reads EMPTY.
Never did that before.

Noticed that after each start attempt, the stereo stays "On".
Never did that before.

Noticed that the power windows switches did nothing.
Never did that before.

Have not yet checked pressure at the fuel rail.

I replaced the fuel pump about a year ago with a TRQ unit from 1A Auto.

Can't quite get my head around the possibility that a fuel pump just "died" in two days.

What would you guys check next?

CMC



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[OR VietVet]

The idea is to put all that pertinent info in your signature so it all shows each time you post. Like this stuff:


06 Z71 Suburban
105k miles
5.3/4L60e yada yada yada
No engine/drivetrain mods

3" spacers/HD coils in the rear
Adjustable rear track bar/panhard bar
Indexed keys with a couple turns in the front
SpindleSource UCA's, OE replacement LCA's

Now to your problem. Yes, check fuel pressure with KOEO and then also watch as you crank it and see if the pressure holds. You could also have ground problems. Numerous threads about that. Here is a link I post when I get involved with a thread about grounds.

https://www.fixmyoldride.com/Chevro...e7e5cd24ed24635&at_ab=per-2&at_pos=3&at_tot=4

Plus I would also check your recent work to see if you could have done something during that process in that area.

 

[PG01]

Check you gro

Similar problem here...
06 Z71 Suburban
105k miles
5.3/4L60e yada yada yada
No engine/drivetrain mods

3" spacers/HD coils in the rear
Adjustable rear track bar/panhard bar
Indexed keys with a couple turns in the front
SpindleSource UCA's, OE replacement LCA's

Recently had the front end back apart to cut some mounting tabs off the UCA's and add 2" wheel spacers to resolve a tire rub problem.
What should have been a 1 day job turned in to a week because of rain and my work schedule.
Resulting in the truck being left on a jackstand for several days on each side (I did them one side at a time).

Because it has been hot, each day when I went out to the truck to work on it I would start it, let it run a few minutes, open the windows and the sunroof, then shut it down.

Yesterday I started that process and the battery was dead as hammer.
The truck had been run and started fine two days prior.

After a little time on the battery charger (a real one... 250amp Matco wheeled charger) I hit the key and get "crank-crank-
I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key to "On", but not all the way to "Start".

I swapped the fuel pump relay with a known good one, same result.
Verified that the 10amp fuse next to the relay was good.

VROOM... dies"

Fuel tank is FULL. Yet gauge reads EMPTY.
Never did that before.

Noticed that after each start attempt, the stereo stays "On".
Never did that before.

Noticed that the power windows switches did nothing.
Never did that before.

Have not yet checked pressure at the fuel rail.

I replaced the fuel pump about a year ago with a TRQ unit from 1A Auto.

Can't quite get my head around the possibility that a fuel pump just "died" in two days.

What would you guys check next?

CMC



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check your grounds...on jack stands with suspension in full droop maybe you stretched something or broke something....

 

[Charles_Colfax]

Great article.
I actually had the dreaded intermittent no start problem in my 96 Burb.
After three starter replacements I finally traced it to a corroded main ground from the battery.
Made a new one from 1/0 cable and never had a problem again.

I can't think of anything else I could have messed up while doing the suspension work. I've had the front end on this PITA apart multiple times.

The Big [emoji241]: 06 Z71 Suburban
5.3/4L60e/No engine or drivetrain mods.

 

[Charles_Colfax]

Fawkit.
Ordering new Positive, Negative and Alternator to Megafuse cables.

I really needed this truck back on the road yesterday.

Fawking $104 for the ACDelco positive battery cable assembly. $65 for the generic. $37 for the alternator to megafuse vs $11.

The Big [emoji241]: 06 Z71 Suburban
105k miles
5.3/4L60e yada yada yada
No engine/drivetrain mods

3" spacers/HD coils in the rear
Adjustable rear track bar/panhard bar
Indexed keys with a couple turns in the front
SpindleSource UCA's, OE replacement LCA's

 

[Charles_Colfax]

Still can't understand how something could have "gone bad" in the +/-36 hours from the last time it was run to when I tried it on Friday AM.

I suxors at electrical.

Gonna pick up a new battery too... Just looked at my stickers/notes and the one in it is dated June 2015.

I buy the Napa Legend and warranty it out every 4-5 years.

Haven't decided if I'm going "chance it" with the generic cables or eat the extra $70 for all ACDelco

The Big [emoji241]: 06 Z71 Suburban
105k miles
5.3/4L60e yada yada yada
No engine/drivetrain mods

3" spacers/HD coils in the rear
Adjustable rear track bar/panhard bar
Indexed keys with a couple turns in the front
SpindleSource UCA's, OE replacement LCA's

 

[exp500]

I'm not sure about this Quick diagnosis, but think it is something to consider after cable changes if you still have problems= Check relays- sounds like you are back feeding power. A welder would definately do that to a weak or failing relay ifn you dont disconnect BOTH terminals. Many more areas to check for backfeed, but usually only 3-4 relays on hot side to start with.

 

[OneofFew]

Interested to find out what this turns out to be as I have an intermittent no start.

 

[Charles_Colfax]

I'm not sure about this Quick diagnosis, but think it is something to consider after cable changes if you still have problems= Check relays- sounds like you are back feeding power. A welder would definately do that to a weak or failing relay ifn you dont disconnect BOTH terminals. Many more areas to check for backfeed, but usually only 3-4 relays on hot side to start with.

That's prolly more relevant to the OP

I swapped relays around on mine w/ no change.

Bought all new main cables, then discovered the ground strap from the firewall to the hood was shredded.

Replaced it and all seemed good.

Radio is uncooperative now.
I'm thinking the ground issues and the on/off, etc popped the inline fuses.
Radio won't turn on at all. (Yes, it's an aftermarket unit)
Looks like I'm pulling the dash apart (again) this week.

The Big [emoji241]: 06 Z71 Suburban
105k miles
5.3/4L60e yada yada yada
No engine/drivetrain mods

3" spacers/HD coils in the rear
Adjustable rear track bar/panhard bar
Indexed keys with a couple turns in the front
SpindleSource UCA's, OE replacement LCA's