2007-2014 Rear Door Lock Problem "Fix" (Not Actuator Problem)

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zjorvis95

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I have a 2007 Tahoe LT 4x4 we bought back in 2014. Every since we purchased it, we have always had problems with the rear door locks not wanting to lock/unlock. It was not that bad for the first several years, you would just have to hit the button a few extra times. Over the last few years it had gotten really bad. You would have to hit the button up to 20 or 30 times to get them to lock or unlock. Every once and a while they would work just fine. I searched and found many people with lock actuator failures. I was not sure that was my problem because the rear doors would always work, or not work together, not separately from one another. I took a gamble and bought two actuators from GruvenParts, and installed just one in the back passenger door. Nothing changed except that the GruvenParts actuator seemed more snappy than the stock one. The wife was about completely fed up because this is her DD, so I kept digging into the problem. There were many people with lock actuator failures, but only a few forums where people had the same problem as us. No one ever seemed to post weather they had figured it out. Several weeks ago I happen to come across a thread from about 5 years ago from a guy with a 2008 Silverado that had the same problem. I can't remember what site it was from because I had looked through so many. He had discovered that the door locks were controlled with a relay that was located in the fuse block that is located behind the panel in the driver side of the dash. He took it apart discovered the relay was soldered in. He searched and was only able to find the relay in China. He unsoldered and replaced the old one and it fixed his problem. I found nothing with a search of the part number he gave, so I called the junkyard. They wanted $175. I got on eBay and found one for $33 shipped. After install, The Rear Door Locks Work Perfectly!!!! The internal relay was the problem!! I just wanted to put this out there incase someone else was going through the same thing. If you are having this problem, just make sure you look at the part number on your fuse block before you get one. There were a few different ones when I was looking. It is fairly easy to change out. I had it changed out in about 15 minutes. I hope this saves someone a bunch time!!
 
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zjorvis95

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pictures of this relay & showing location?
I don't have any pictures on hand, but if you open the driver door there is a fuse access panel on the end of the dash. Pop that off, and there is a small fuse block under it. The relay is made inside that fuse block. From what I can tell, all the windows and locks go through that fuse block. You can hear the relay clicking inside it when you hit the lock/unlock button. I removed the knee panel below the steering wheel and it gave good access to it. There are two release clips that hold it into the bracket. It pulls straight out. There are three small harnesses that plug into the front, and one big one that plugs into the back. Just swap it out. I never opened the fuse block up. I could not find any relay to match the part number that was on the post I read. You would have to unsolder and solder it in, and to me it was way more simple to just replace the fuse block as a whole.
 

petethepug

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Thread revival bump just in case someone needs this fix. Anyone know the fuse block part # to add?
 

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