2007 6.2 dies after highway drive

[Tpitt]

I am new to the forum and new to this truck. We purchased it used, 110,000 ish miles. Ran great for a week including a few long highway drives. Now we have an issue.
After driving at highway speeds for an hour, when we come off the ramp the truck dies at the stop light,,,sometimes. It might make it to the next light and die.
1) No engine light and no codes seen with a scanner
2) No shuttering like the tranny did not down shift
3) Oil pressure stays good
4) Will not start again for a minimum an hour sometimes 2

I had the fuel pump replaced as I know they can cause similar problems.

Any suggestions? I see this is reported in many forums and it seems like people shotgun the problem and get lucky from time to time. I do not own a bidirectional computer for it yet. Any suggestions on that as well? I may just have to spend the money for one.

 

[kbuskill]

I am new to the forum and new to this truck. We purchased it used, 110,000 ish miles. Ran great for a week including a few long highway drives. Now we have an issue.
After driving at highway speeds for an hour, when we come off the ramp the truck dies at the stop light,,,sometimes. It might make it to the next light and die.
1) No engine light and no codes seen with a scanner
2) No shuttering like the tranny did not down shift
3) Oil pressure stays good
4) Will not start again for a minimum an hour sometimes 2

I had the fuel pump replaced as I know they can cause similar problems.

Any suggestions? I see this is reported in many forums and it seems like people shotgun the problem and get lucky from time to time. I do not own a bidirectional computer for it yet. Any suggestions on that as well? I may just have to spend the money for one.

This is a fairly common issue with the 6.2l it seems. Most of the time it is exacerbated by driving in the mountains or pulling a trailer or both.

There are varying theories as to the cause.

My personal theory is that the fuel rails/lines become "superheated" causing the gasoline to boil and vapor lock the engine.

The next time it happens and it won't start try bleeding some gas out of the shrader valve on the fuel rail and see if she doesn't fire up.

I always suggest wrapping the fuel rail and fuel lines up near the engine with a foil backed fiberglass heat wrap.

I know one guy on here changed out the radiator to a new one which helped keep the engine temp lower there by helping to avoid the heating of the fuel.

Report back what you find after you try bleeding the fuel. Just be careful as the fuel will be spraying out onto a hot engine. Best to use a rag to catch the fuel as it sprays out.

James @swathdiver can give you better insight on the Tech2.

 

[01FormulaTA]

Your throttle body could be dirty, takes about 10 min to pull it off, clean it, and reinstall, worth a shot for a cheap fix

 

[swathdiver]

Dirty or failing throttle body, stuck lockup in torque converter, TECM in transmission needs cleaning, bad crank sensor that fails when hot and works when cool. Any number of sensors could behave this way.

Need a bi-directional scan tool to record data when trying to duplicate the problem.

 

[gpracer1]

When you say it will not start I assume you mean it cranks steady but no cylinders sound like they are doing anything?.......as if you had no fuel pump or no spark.
If that is the case I would go simple old school and spray some carb spray down the throttle body and crank it again. If it changes then its a fuel problem, if not hold it wide open as in clear flood mode and crank again for 20 seconds.

 

[Tpitt]

This is a fairly common issue with the 6.2l it seems. Most of the time it is exacerbated by driving in the mountains or pulling a trailer or both.

There are varying theories as to the cause.

My personal theory is that the fuel rails/lines become "superheated" causing the gasoline to boil and vapor lock the engine.

The next time it happens and it won't start try bleeding some gas out of the shrader valve on the fuel rail and see if she doesn't fire up.

I always suggest wrapping the fuel rail and fuel lines up near the engine with a foil backed fiberglass heat wrap.

I know one guy on here changed out the radiator to a new one which helped keep the engine temp lower there by helping to avoid the heating of the fuel.

Report back what you find after you try bleeding the fuel. Just be careful as the fuel will be spraying out onto a hot engine. Best to use a rag to catch the fuel as it sprays out.

James @swathdiver can give you better insight on the Tech2.

 

[Tpitt]

I took into the shop. They said there was a code for bank one and bank two running rich and throttle body needing cleaning. So, they cleaned the throttle body and the MAF and then did a "relearn" for the fuel management. Other than that, no codes.

Yes, this all started by pulling a camper for the first time.
Yes, it cranks with no problem just won't start.

Why would the techm or torque converter in the transmission cause it not to start?

If the fuel line is getting that hot, should I remove that plastic cover on top of the engine? Anything to get air flow should help.



I will test the truck out today and let you know if anything comes of it.

 

[kbuskill]

I took into the shop. They said there was a code for bank one and bank two running rich and throttle body needing cleaning. So, they cleaned the throttle body and the MAF and then did a "relearn" for the fuel management. Other than that, no codes.

Yes, this all started by pulling a camper for the first time.
Yes, it cranks with no problem just won't start.

Why would the techm or torque converter in the transmission cause it not to start?

If the fuel line is getting that hot, should I remove that plastic cover on top of the engine? Anything to get air flow should help.



I will test the truck out today and let you know if anything comes of it.

I think that removing the plastic cover from the engine will do very little to keep the fuel rail any cooler.

If it stalls again, try bleeding the fuel rail and report back if she fires up without sitting for an hour+.

 

[swathdiver]

Why would the techm or torque converter in the transmission cause it not to start?

Because the torque converter failed to unlock and stalled the engine.

Trust the codes and proper engine diagnostics.