2007 Denali Emergency/Parking brake replacement needed

[jbluemke]

I recently had a bad grinding noise whenever I had to brake. Thinking it was the brakes (I replaced them - I never noticed the scraping sounds WHILE I was driving ). So, obviously, I was wrong and the noise continued and my neighbor told me it was the emergency/parking brake.

What exactly is it that I need? I have never experienced this before (he things one of the springs just popped loose or something and is scraping). He mentioned 2 things that I need.... The parking brake kit, and something else I think?? And do I need TWO of these (for both rear wheels)?

Also, how hard is this. Does anyone have a link to a good tutorial/video. He said it was just one more step that, replacing the rotor. But I dont know of he is simplifying it because he is used to working on cars. Thank you for the help!

 

[swathdiver]

Well, first you can try resetting the parking brake actuator. To work on the back end you have to disable the front end. Then you can disassemble the rear and replace the shoes and then adjust the new shoes to be within 1/2 a millimeter of the drum (drum in hat rotor).

I do not have access to my shop manual at present, you can get the procedures and photos by purchasing a subscription for the shop manual for your car at AllDataDIY.

Check to see if your actuator works because if it doesn't the back end work is moot until it does. Make sure the 3 cables are not stretched out and sagging. Make sure the back two cables are attached properly and didn't get dislodged for some reason.

There are videos on youtube for the front and the back. The older generation is only slightly different.

 

[jbluemke]

Sounds complicated. I'll check YouTube out for a visual. Thanks

 

[swathdiver]

Sounds complicated. I'll check YouTube out for a visual. Thanks

Dealers only charge an hour labor to adjust it and if something is broken, you can then decide whether to let them knock it out while you sit inside the air conditioning and chat up the other folks waiting on their cars.

 

[jbluemke]

Dealers only charge an hour labor to adjust it and if something is broken, you can then decide whether to let them knock it out while you sit inside the air conditioning and chat up the other folks waiting on their cars.

Is it right behind the rotor? So of I take the rotor off would I be able to see what is wrong with it?

 

[swathdiver]

Is it right behind the rotor? So of I take the rotor off would I be able to see what is wrong with it?

If the problem is back there. Yes, if you pull the rear rotor off, the parking brake shoes resides under there. Often times the rotors are hard to pull off because of a lip that forms inside the hat, a puller can overcome this but may take out the shoe.

 

[MassHoe04]

Well, first you can try resetting the parking brake actuator. To work on the back end you have to disable the front end. Then you can disassemble the rear and replace the shoes and then adjust the new shoes to be within 1/2 a millimeter of the drum (drum in hat rotor).

I do not have access to my shop manual at present, you can get the procedures and photos by purchasing a subscription for the shop manual for your car at AllDataDIY.

Check to see if your actuator works because if it doesn't the back end work is moot until it does. Make sure the 3 cables are not stretched out and sagging. Make sure the back two cables are attached properly and didn't get dislodged for some reason.

There are videos on youtube for the front and the back. The older generation is only slightly different.

Is the nut on the end of the intermediate cable (at the equalizer) supposed to be tightened to where it bottoms out against the end of the threads or is the nut supposed to end up anywhere along the threaded section as a means of adjustment? FSM says tighten nut to 31 lb. in.

I replaced intermediate cable and in P-brake internal hardware. Rusty intermediate cable end hat the equalizer nut bottomed out to the last turn of the threads. I thought maybe they used all the adjustment they could out of it and tightened the nut in as far as it would go.

Is it supposed to be tightened as far as it will go towards the front like that?

 

[Fless]

Is the nut on the end of the intermediate cable (at the equalizer) supposed to be tightened to where it bottoms out against the end of the threads or is the nut supposed to end up anywhere along the threaded section as a means of adjustment? FSM says tighten nut to 31 lb. in.

I replaced intermediate cable and in P-brake internal hardware. Rusty intermediate cable end hat the equalizer nut bottomed out to the last turn of the threads. I thought maybe they used all the adjustment they could out of it and tightened the nut in as far as it would go.

Is it supposed to be tightened as far as it will go towards the front like that?

No, you likely have a stretched cable (front, or one or both of the rear cables), or the P-brake shoes aren't adjusted close enough. They have to be very close to the drum (rotor hat) surface since they never move unless tension is put on the P-brake cable. There is a tool to measure the rotor hat and the corresponding setting of the horseshoe. It's somewhat like a large caliper. I think @Rocket Man used one on his, IIRC.

Have someone lightly push down on the P-brake, just a little, while you watch the lever that goes through the backing plate on one side in back. If the lever doesn't move with a little movement of the P-brake cable, you likely have a stretched cable since you're out of cable adjustment.

After you replace the rear cables you'll be able to zero in on it closer, since that variable will be out of play.

 

[MassHoe04]

No, you likely have a stretched cable (front, or one or both of the rear cables), or the P-brake shoes aren't adjusted close enough. They have to be very close to the drum (rotor hat) surface since they never move unless tension is put on the P-brake cable. There is a tool to measure the rotor hat and the corresponding setting of the horseshoe. It's somewhat like a large caliper. I think @Rocket Man used one on his, IIRC.

Have someone lightly push down on the P-brake, just a little, while you watch the lever that goes through the backing plate on one side in back. If the lever doesn't move with a little movement of the P-brake cable, you likely have a stretched cable since you're out of cable adjustment.

After you replace the rear cables you'll be able to zero in on it closer, since that variable will be out of play.

I'll see if I can get the rear cables replaced tonight. If not, I'll have my guy bang'em in for me.

 

[89Suburban]

1A Auto has a great library of fix it videos for these rigs.