2007 Sub LTZ autoride 4wd shocks blown, no error lights, why and suggestions?

[MDC9966]

So kinda like the title says, I have an issue with my new to me suburban, believe the noise I was hearing is coming from a torn cv axle boot and dried out cv joint. But.... while it's in the air, I see the rear shocks are completely torn open so no way is anything air working. Started it up and the compressor isn't coming on either. Checked the fuses under the hood and the only one blown is a 40A relay. I replaced it with a good one and checked again. The compressor never came on.

With that 40A blown, I assume it disabled the autoride, don't know if that impacts the front electronic stuts or not, regardless, its in there now and not blown.

I will need to replace the 2 air shocks and maybe the compressor if its shot. Is there a trouble shoot for checking the compressor. Seems it should have come on, I can check that it's getting power but that's about all I know to do.

First question, shouldn't I have had a error light on the dash with the fuse blown, compressor not coming on, and the rear shock boots torn open?

Still no error lights and the rear isn't sagging, it rides at a normal height. Pretty stiff ride, but not the worst I've ever had and not terrible.

Very curious if it's normal not to have error lights with this kinda failure, if I should have, since I bought it used, wondering if there is other things rigged that I need to be looking into.

Now for the repair, fix the compressor and rear shocks with stock?
Replace the rear shocks with normal shocks and the compressor bypass, (resisitor I think)?

If I do the bypass can I leave the front struts alone or do I have to replace them with non autoride electronic stuts and add a resistor there too.

Sub has 144Kmiles and I got it to commute to work and use for the family soccer/dinner transport. It probably will see another 70K miles while I own it and modify it. Eventually doing a 2/3 drop, escalade wheels, etc..

 

[MDC9966]

So the shop is telling me that the air shocks have been bypassed, even though the boot is ripped open, the shock is acting as a normal shock. Is that BS or ???

What doesn't make sense is no fuses are blown, the compressor doesn't come on. Would I have an error if the compressor was bad? Would anything about the air shocks make the error light come on?

My thought if the shop is right is that the rear shocks are 1) air, and 2) electronic dampening. With the air not doing its job, the electronic dampening is still working and that's why I don't have an error light.

If I"m right, I should be able to unplug the electronic connection from the shock and it will throw a code? If I do this, when I plug it back up, will the code go away?

And if all of this is correct, would it ride better with a normal shock in the rear with a resistor bypass? Or the air ride shocks and compressor replaced? Or this is as good as it's probably going to be and I should leave it alone? My thought is after over a 100K miles, with blown air shocks, it will probably be a noticeable improvement with either new air shocks and compressor or new electronic shocks or just new shocks with out air and without electronics.

Please help

 

[al2fast]

Not that this helps a ton but on my 09 when my compressor was dead I only got a service suspension light to come on right after I got my blackbear tune with a computer reset or whatever happens when the tune is flashed. It went away and never came back. I replaced my compressor with an arnott almost 2 years ago and working fine.

I bought an iCarsoft i900 scan tool off of Amazon and it reads the suspension codes, have one I'm currently troubleshooting today.