2007 Yukon XL License Plate bulbs inop

[Dillon2222]

I have a 07 yukon and the damn license plate bulbs are out. I have checked all fuses under the dash and also under the hood and they are fine. I have also checked with a test light and i am getting power to the sockets. I even bought two new light bulbs but they still are not working. Anybody else have this issue and that can point me in the right direction. So damn frustrating.

 

[kbuskill]

When you say you checked for power with a test light did you ground your test light at the socket or somewhere else? It could be that you lost the ground to the socket.

Also your replacement bulbs, are they LED? If so you may just need to flip the bulb 180° in the socket because LED bulbs only work with power flowing in one direction.

 

[Dillon2222]

I used a bolt that was grounded to the body and tested the socket from there. No LEDs just the regular bulbs.

 

[Dillon2222]

DO you think it could be a bad ground wire, coming from the wire harness at the top of the door?

 

[kbuskill]

DO you think it could be a bad ground wire, coming from the wire harness at the top of the door?

Well if you have power at the socket with your test light grounded to a bolt then my guess would be a bad ground.

Can you get your test lights ground lead into the bulb socket? If so that would definitely tell the tale.

 

[Dillon2222]

UPDATE!!!!!! I did find the demon... it was a bad ground in the harness the the lights and the rear hatch glass button are connected to. Im not sure if the splice was like that from the factory but i found it and fixed it. one thing that did suck is taking off the exterior cover to get to the harness, they put locktight on the studs from the factory so when you try to take off the nuts they end up getting locked up and the stud ends up breaking the plastic housing it sits in. Other than that it wasnt to bad to do. Now i have another demon to conqour. the rear door is electronic and will open and close with using the key fob the inside button or the button on the rear door. it opens just fine using any of those three things, but when tryin to close the door using any of the three things it does not close. you have to close it manually. Any suggestgions would be appriciated . Any body else have this issue?

 

[Dillon2222]

UPDATE!!!!!! I did find the demon... it was a bad ground in the harness the the lights and the rear hatch glass button are connected to. Im not sure if the splice was like that from the factory but i found it and fixed it. one thing that did suck is taking off the exterior cover to get to the harness, they put locktight on the studs from the factory so when you try to take off the nuts they end up getting locked up and the stud ends up breaking the plastic housing it sits in. Other than that it wasnt to bad to do. Now i have another demon to conqour. the rear door is electronic and will open and close with using the key fob the inside button or the button on the rear door. it opens just fine using any of those three things, but when tryin to close the door using any of the three things it does not close. you have to close it manually. Any suggestgions would be appriciated . Any body else have this issue?

Found the problem to the issue also. After tearing everything apart again, Found a broken wire the goes to the drivers side crush sensor. Repaired the wire and BAM!!!!! everything works.

 

[dougywarren]

Wonder if that's what's wrong with mine. Got stopped a couple nights to tell me mine were out. Got new bulbs and went to replace them and the old bulbs were literally melted into the socket. Both are out. I cant even get the old ones out.

And my hatch also does not close with the button 2/3 of the time.

Anyone know of a tutorial to remove the back body panel piece above the license plate to get to the wires?

 

[Dillon2222]

Wonder if that's what's wrong with mine. Got stopped a couple nights to tell me mine were out. Got new bulbs and went to replace them and the old bulbs were literally melted into the socket. Both are out. I cant even get the old ones out.

Anyone know of a tutorial to remove the back body panel piece above the license plate to get to the wires?

yOU have to take the inerior cover off of your tailgate. the only thing that sucks about taking the outer piece off to get to the wire harness is that the nuts are held in by locktite, so you end up breaking the plastic tabs that the studs are held in by. you will end up buying a new outer piece and have it painted. right now mine is held in by the two clips, no studs or nuts n the studs. Might replace mine and instead of color matching might just plasti-dip it. More than likely you will need to replace the sub-harness that connects the two bulbs and handle entry for the rear door.

 

[dougywarren]

yOU have to take the inerior cover off of your tailgate. the only thing that sucks about taking the outer piece off to get to the wire harness is that the nuts are held in by locktite, so you end up breaking the plastic tabs that the studs are held in by. you will end up buying a new outer piece and have it painted. right now mine is held in by the two clips, no studs or nuts n the studs. Might replace mine and instead of color matching might just plasti-dip it. More than likely you will need to replace the sub-harness that connects the two bulbs and handle entry for the rear door.

good lord that sucks. Darn pre-bailout GM. That rear piece is shaking all over the place on mine anyway. Might be worth seeing what GMC has to say about it. I really don't feel like buying that outer piece and having it painted. A lot of work for something GM screwed up from the factory.