2008 Yukon Electrical Problems

[hbr]

I would start with having the BCM reflashed........when that thing goes funky all kinds of weird stuff happens.

 

[rxrep]

Mine stopped doing it for a while, and now it's back. Lights flicker at night, and sometimes the whole electrical system shuts down and "reboots" (stereo shuts off and comes back on, guage cluster goes blank and then comes back with all kinds of warnings like airbags, etc). The thing runs fine through it all and the engine doesn't skip a beat. I found by mistake that if I touch any of the window buttons in the wrong way (like if windows are already up but I hit the UP button), it shorts out everything almost every single time. Funny thing is that it won't do that at idle sitting still. The car has to be moving, and then it will do it every single time. What a piece of crap. Off to the wild goose chase of a dealer not being able to figure it out. But at least it does it all the time now so they'll be able to replicate the problem. A few months ago, it was intermitent. I hate this thing. First US-made SUV I've owned and it's been nothing but a pile of junk. Bought new with 5 miles on the ODO, so it's not like I got someone else's sloppy seconds, either.

 

[MTG]

I bought an 08 Tahoe in July 2010 and have had exactly the same recurring probllem - some times while driving the radio / nav will shut off, some times this is triggered by use of window controls. Many times the car will be dead when I go to start it. I have learned that tugging on the battery cables resolves the issue. Chevy dealer charged me $300 to tell me they couldn't find a problem - in any event they reset the computer and updated for fixes, but problem persists. I have lived with the battery cable fix, but have now seen that this is a widespread problem and think Chevy needs to address this.

 

[GM Customer Service]

MTG,

It may be need an electrical ground repair. Are any of the connections corroeded?

Louis
GM Customer Service

 

[MTG]

When the problem first starting happening I had a local mechanic take a look and he said that he couldn't figure out the issue, but that he cleaned all of the connection. A few weeks later I took it to the Chevy dealership and they cleaned the battery terminals and rechecked all of the other connections that might be involved (in addition to resetting the software). What other connections might be involved / corroded? Appreciate your help.

 

[GlenB]

I read through these posts and sounds like it could be several things, but more point me to this issue that I resolved a few months ago.
Have your dealer look up this TSB # up for your vehicle
Here are the number TSB Number: SB-08-07-30-021 NHTSA Number: 10025668
Loss of high speed gmlan communications, intermittent no crank, ipc gauge fluctuation, intermittent door lock cycling, transmission may not shift, DTCs U0073, U0100, U0101, U0102, U0121, U0140 set (repair backed out terminal in transmission.

---------- Post added at 03:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:57 AM ----------

rxrep,
The way have discribed the issues it sounds like the altornator has a bad voltage regulator built inside the alternator housing. What happens is you can roll all 4 windows down at idle, but if you rev your engine to 1700 - 2000 RPMs and try to roll all 4 up it will most like start doing the reboot deal. A bad regulator can only charge at pully idle anything higher and the relay clicks off and your truck is not charging. I would suggest bying a "NEW" one (NO NEW REMAN) most of these REMAN's have lifetime warrantee because they are meant to get you home and use the lowest grade parts.

 

[Peaches]

Count me in for odd electrical issues. She rebooted today and has been running off. The AC turns itself on, cranks down to 74 (WITHOUT prompting), turns on passenger, axillary, recycle air (all of this while not using remote start), hesitates while starting and the CD player has been acting strange, cycling CD's when there are none in que. It's also idling rough, I just went out and played with it, started great then after a few moments the rpm's hovered around 400-700. You could hear the engine straining to keep it running. AC is also weak.

Husband will check all my terminals tonight and see if everything looks ok. It still has the original battery, which very well may be the culprit. I sincerely hope it's dirty terminals or a bad battery. I REALLY don't want to mess with the throttle body or alternator.

Also, the mooing, moaning, weird ac related noise has ceased, which I don't think is a good thing. It's obviously dying to go to the dealership and since I'm a procrastinator, this is the quickest way there, via coming up with something more serious for me to worry about.

 

[lbzrcks]

I know this is an old thread, but does anyone have a known fix for this yet? My 2010 Tahoe is doing this funny erratic stuff too.

 

[snaward]

There is a GM service bulletin that tells the dealer how to test the battery cables to see if they are still in specification. That was done on my 08 yukon about 6 months ago and since then I have not had any problems. If you look around the net you can probably find the service bulletin.

 

[Peaches]

Mine has been resolved, until this summer. I'm fairly confident when the temperatures start climbing, the electrical issues will come back. I had the fuse box repaired and new battery cables put on, which seemed to fix it. However, it's newest quirk is to tell me the hood is open when I turn a corner. So, something still isn't right.