2009 Yukon 2WD; New metal-on-metal sound from front end.

[olliec420]

I think this is one I’m willing to lay a nice bottle of whisky down on!

Ok so it's changed. I did not hear the noise again but I didn't go far. No sound was made when I moved the car across the street to the neighbors lift before the change either though. Change went smooth except the trans shop torqued down the bolts so freaking hard I bent a cheap ratchet wrench trying to get them off. Busted out the 1/2 in impact and they came right off.

Inspecting the old one removed. The spring worked when I tested it on the bench. The whole thing did have a "looser" sound when I shook it compared to the new one. So it seems to be a success.

And to all the other folks who commented on installation... I don't know what you're talking about taking off the wheel and fender. Mines 2wd, I don't know if that makes a difference. You undo the electrical connections. Take out the two screws and then weasel it down. Came right out, didn't get caught on anything. New one in, run them up and reconnect. Simple. The clip on the signal wire was real brittle and part of the connector cracked. Not the clip itself though. I need to be pretty gentle with it in the future.

AND THEN... I started it up. Good to go. The auto air was doing the calibration thing and blowing out of the wrong vents for a bit. I drove it back across the street to my house and the ABS and stabilitrak messages come on! I put scanner on, says C0050 right rear wheel speed sensor. I look at the data and its reading 0 on RR while all others are showing speed. Go inside and order one for pickup at advanced, watch the install video. Go back out to the car to go pick it up and dinner... lights are off. Code remains but I clear it and data is showing for all 4 wheels the same. Wtf?!? Will cancel order tomorrow if light doesn't come back on.

 

[Geotrash]

Ok so it's changed. I did not hear the noise again but I didn't go far. No sound was made when I moved the car across the street to the neighbors lift before the change either though. Change went smooth except the trans shop torqued down the bolts so freaking hard I bent a cheap ratchet wrench trying to get them off. Busted out the 1/2 in impact and they came right off.

Inspecting the old one removed. The spring worked when I tested it on the bench. The whole thing did have a "looser" sound when I shook it compared to the new one. So it seems to be a success.

And to all the other folks who commented on installation... I don't know what you're talking about taking off the wheel and fender. Mines 2wd, I don't know if that makes a difference. You undo the electrical connections. Take out the two screws and then weasel it down. Came right out, didn't get caught on anything. New one in, run them up and reconnect. Simple. The clip on the signal wire was real brittle and part of the connector cracked. Not the clip itself though. I need to be pretty gentle with it in the future.

AND THEN... I started it up. Good to go. The auto air was doing the calibration thing and blowing out of the wrong vents for a bit. I drove it back across the street to my house and the ABS and stabilitrak messages come on! I put scanner on, says C0050 right rear wheel speed sensor. I look at the data and its reading 0 on RR while all others are showing speed. Go inside and order one for pickup at advanced, watch the install video. Go back out to the car to go pick it up and dinner... lights are off. Code remains but I clear it and data is showing for all 4 wheels the same. Wtf?!? Will cancel order tomorrow if light doesn't come back on.

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Good news! Nice job. Yes, 2WD makes all kinds of things easier to work on with these. It’s fixed. Buffalo Trace, please.

On the code, it’s not uncommon for that to pop up when the sensor starts to go but check the wiring connector for it above the rear axle. Hopefully it’s just an anomaly.

 

[petethepug]

GM trucks don’t like their battery cables moved around after a decade. They rot from the inside out and moving them has the same effect as putting a kink in your hose. When your voltage flow is interrupted, your 5v can/bus diagnostic signal lines makes gremlin DTC’s.

Instead of checking all the -\+ connectors, simply remove 110% of the possibility of gremlins by replacing the wires first.

Nicely done internet diagnosis!

 

[olliec420]

GM trucks don’t like their battery cables moved around after a decade. They rot from the inside out and moving them has the same effect as putting a kink in your hose. When your voltage flow is interrupted, your 5v can/bus diagnostic signal lines makes gremlin DTC’s.

Instead of checking all the -\+ connectors, simply remove 110% of the possibility of gremlins by replacing the wires first.

Nicely done internet diagnosis!

If you see one of my other posts I was having random shut downs and volts on the lower end. Replaced pos and neg cables and all better!

 

[olliec420]

Good news! Nice job. Yes, 2WD makes all kinds of things easier to work on with these. It’s fixed. Buffalo Trace, please.

On the code, it’s not uncommon for that to pop up when the sensor starts to go but check the wiring connector for it above the rear axle. Hopefully it’s just an anomaly.

I was driving through lowes parking lot yesterday and pulling out I heard a same gen as mine silverado turn in and I heard the sound! I almost chased him down to tell him but it was a wrapped work truck so I decided not to bother because it would have been some tricky driving to get him.

I did that wheel sensor before I left on that trip and all was well.