2010 Yukon XL Body Shifting Under Braking

[jharri7140]

Hello, I have a 2010 Yukon XL with 225k miles I have trying to fix for a while now. Initially when I bought it a couple months ago, when driving on the highway and any braking was done the vehicle would feel like it would shift forward and then move left. It feels very disconnected from the road. So I began by checking all of the suspension. Front right lower ball joint was cooked and everything was very old, so I went ahead and refreshed the front end with new control arms, ball joints, and anti-roll bar bushings. The tie rods are in great shape and look to be fairly new, probably the previous owner trying to track down this issue. I also went ahead and did new control arms in the rear, all five were replaced. The panhard bar was very washy. All this suspension work did help it feel more locked into the road but still I can feel the shifting and disconnect at all times, especially under braking. My current idea is that the body mounts are cooked, but I wanted to see if anyone else had any ideas or if there is a surefire way to check body mounts?

 

[Dustin Jackson]

If your body mounts were loose you should be able to find evidence of it in additional to being able to just tighten them down

 

[Geotrash]

Hello, I have a 2010 Yukon XL with 225k miles I have trying to fix for a while now. Initially when I bought it a couple months ago, when driving on the highway and any braking was done the vehicle would feel like it would shift forward and then move left. It feels very disconnected from the road. So I began by checking all of the suspension. Front right lower ball joint was cooked and everything was very old, so I went ahead and refreshed the front end with new control arms, ball joints, and anti-roll bar bushings. The tie rods are in great shape and look to be fairly new, probably the previous owner trying to track down this issue. I also went ahead and did new control arms in the rear, all five were replaced. The panhard bar was very washy. All this suspension work did help it feel more locked into the road but still I can feel the shifting and disconnect at all times, especially under braking. My current idea is that the body mounts are cooked, but I wanted to see if anyone else had any ideas or if there is a surefire way to check body mounts?

We've seen cases here of steering racks sliding back and forth on its mounts as the rubber bushings wear out. Easy to see with an assistant turning the steering wheel while you watch the rack. Inner tie rod ends are also a common wear item around your mileage. Again, easy to check if you get the wheels up in the air. Body mounts are less common but I've seen them wear out more due to age than mileage. 2010 seems early for that but again it's easy to check them.

 

[Foggy]

Check your motor mounts too.. They can give a sliding feel when bad as well

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

If you have a quality bi-directional scanner, it would be good to check your ABS operation to be sure that it is operating correctly, as your issue occurs during braking.

 

[jharri7140]

Thank you for the responses everyone, hit it right on the money with the steering rack bushings. But it ended up both the rack bushings and body mounts were shot, so after getting those replaced things are much more controlled and not feeling super washy. Still have an issue where it pulls left under braking, I have read that brake line contamination can cause this and I have not refreshed the brake fluid so I will probably be doing that soon. Is there any other issue which could cause a pull left under braking? Also should note that I have checked all wheel bearings and they are good and make no noise. Also it has new pads and rotors on it, and all front end suspension components are good and the rack has no mechanical play.

 

[j91z28d1]

unless your alignment is way off, does it pull under braking at the initial push of the brakes but them kinda even out?

I had a car that drove me crazy as a kid, you could push slowly and bearly pulled right, but hit the brake quickly and it would yank to the right almost locking a wheel. I replaced everything on that side, back when I didn't have enough money to even own a car lol. turned out it was the brake hose on the other side that had gone bad and was blocking fluid.

 

[petethepug]

Like Momma says … it about what’s on the inside (of the brake line) that matters. Vehicles are living super long lives now that the days of 8 year car loans and $100k+ trucks are here.

The rear drum brakes on my daughters 91 s10 had never been cracked open. It only has about 35k miles on it but damn, I never thought her great grampas little longbed 2.2L flex fuel extra cab truck would still be around 23 years later.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

I would go though the brakes again and makes sure all the caliper sliding bolts are clean and don't have to much grease on them and replace your brake hoses if they haven't been serviced in a while you could have a restriction in the brake hose

 

[jharri7140]

Thanks for the input everyone, its more a consistent left pull when the brakes are applied. Its not very apparent at low speeds less than 50, but on the highway if slowing down quick from 70 in traffic it gives a nice consistent pull left. Definitely going to run through the braking system and make sure all the calipers are functioning good with no sticking or anything wacky like that.