2011 Tahoe/Bad engine ticking, 153k miles

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Rocket Man

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No it was a SSV that I bought at auction and had sat for a year and a half. No codes as it had cleared ecm being dead

I winched on trailer bought new battery and drove of trailer and pulled valve covers and it only ran 5 mins before spring broke dropping the valve.

I couldn't see the broken part of spring it was on rear cylinder, I should have barred it over and checked each spring, It had 15800 on it.
I think you left out a zero?
 
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NotQuiteanSS

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Well a misfire on cylinder 6 firing back up into the intake was the mechanics diagnosis... complete AFM failure. Well poop! 153k and it's about 1000 more for a replacement long block with a warranty, I was what I am being told.

Anyone have any good recommendations for a replacement motor with a warranty. I need a few more years out the old gal.
 

Rocket Man

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Well a misfire on cylinder 6 firing back up into the intake was the mechanics diagnosis... complete AFM failure. Well poop! 153k and it's about 1000 more for a replacement long block with a warranty, I was what I am being told.

Anyone have any good recommendations for a replacement motor with a warranty. I need a few more years out the old gal.
Why a long block? Sounds like you just need a top end rebuild with a DOD delete.
 

wsteele

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1k for piece of mind for everything sounds like cheap peace of mind to me.

I think I don’t understand something. $1K likely wouldn’t get new lifters installed in your engine (at least at any labor rate with which I am familiar), let alone a complete long block.
 

wjburken

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Shop told me 4 k for top end, new manifold, heads to machine shop, gaskets, bolts, lifters, etc.

5k for new motor with 3 year warranty.
Why the new manifold?

On our 2007 Denali (6.2 & no AFM), at 150K miles, I had a lifter lock up and put shrapnel into the oil pan. I paid $6K installed for a GM reman with 100K warranty on parts and labor. At 270K miles, I had another lifter lock up and scrub the cam. Tore it down and everything looked fine except for the cam and lifters. For just under $2K in parts I did the work myself. Something to consider.

If you can, it doesn’t cost you anything other than time, if you tear your existing motor down yourself to see what’s going on. You may find that everything is fine and can just go with an AFM delete kit and save some money.

Either way, I would make you don’t come out if this with AFM under to hood.
 

wsteele

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Shop told me 4 k for top end, new manifold, heads to machine shop, gaskets, bolts, lifters, etc.

5k for new motor with 3 year warranty.

OK, now I understand, that makes more sense.

$4K for a top end seems really high (even including a new cam and sundry stuff to get the AFM delete). If the cam is fine (seems many times they are with just a collapsed AFM lifter), I would expect to pay a good shop about $2-$2.5K (depending on prevailing labor rates) for all new OE lifters, VLOM, freshen the heads, all required gaskets, etc.

Losing AFM seems to be about .5MPG penalty, at least that is what mine is with just AFM turned off. Many here report better than stock mileage when doing the mechanical delete and using a tune from somebody like Black Bear.
 
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