Joseph Garcia
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2012 Tahoe 5.3 Shut down 3 months. Will not start. Help? Ideas? FIXED!
- Thread starter TerryKing
- Start date
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Try a system hard reset - remove the negative cable off the battery - wait 5-10 mins - hook back up, try starting it again...this sometimes solves a lot of problems.
That is a common problem, you need to replace your entire fuse block. You either call gm with your vin, it will come complete with all fuses installed, or you need to find a good one at a wrecker with all the same options. You really need to make sure they are the same ones if going used, they all plug in the same and look the same, but there are different fuse locations activated and not activated on various vehicles. Generally a loaded up Denali one will work in a lesser model unit because it has more fuse locations activated, but a lesser model won't work in a loaded truck because of locations missing the little fuse metal connectors inside.
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TerryKing
Member
OK Here's the UGLY BUT RUNS for now. THANKS to everyone who helped with this. It's an amazing Forum of Friends...
AND Thanks for the parts pointers; I have found a VIN matching fuse panel within 50 miles. THAT will be the actual solution.
BUT In The Meantime:
The UGLY connection with soldered Bronze Nails, 25A Fuse and holder:
That carefully hammered in place, just aside the broken-off fuse legs. I sprayed some contact anti-corrosion stuff first.
The Fuel Pressure came up to 55 PSI and started immediately. After warmup pressure was 45PSI.
(Don't know how to put text to right of that....)
Warmed up, ran smoothly all the time. Locked brakes and put some throttle/torque in Drive (in the barn..) All smooth running.
So I need to carefully secure that fuseholder and get the cover back on.
The Bullseye Shot by @Fless : "SWAG: Check power on both sides of fuse #21 for the Fuel System Control Module."
Just THANKS. I'll try to pay this forward. Regards, Terry
AND Thanks for the parts pointers; I have found a VIN matching fuse panel within 50 miles. THAT will be the actual solution.
BUT In The Meantime:
The UGLY connection with soldered Bronze Nails, 25A Fuse and holder:
That carefully hammered in place, just aside the broken-off fuse legs. I sprayed some contact anti-corrosion stuff first.
The Fuel Pressure came up to 55 PSI and started immediately. After warmup pressure was 45PSI.
(Don't know how to put text to right of that....)
Warmed up, ran smoothly all the time. Locked brakes and put some throttle/torque in Drive (in the barn..) All smooth running.
So I need to carefully secure that fuseholder and get the cover back on.
The Bullseye Shot by @Fless : "SWAG: Check power on both sides of fuse #21 for the Fuel System Control Module."
Just THANKS. I'll try to pay this forward. Regards, Terry
Success! Keep your eye on the MacGyver leads and make sure they're not getting too hot when you're running it.
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TerryKing
Member
@Fless, I ran this for 10 min or more and felt the top of those nails. Not hot at all as I felt it. I measured the voltage between the two tops and it was .018V (18 millivolts) and I assume that was mostly from the resistance of the fuse/holder.
I was able to ziptie the fuseholder a bit away from the edge and was able after some juggling to get the top cover completely in place (Always difficult).
Still runs OK.. that will be the situation until May.. I need to go back to Eqypt in 3 weeks; my wife has a job in an International School in Cairo. I will be working "at home" there on Educational Kits for EE students for next school year. Nice little light microcomputers and low currents!
BUT: I am wondering what's the best "Put a car to semisleep for 3 months" approach?? In the past it's been Fresh fuel and Stabil and Battery Maintainer. Worked OK several other times. MAYBE it would be better to disconnect battery and leave the maintainer on it. That way there is not 12V across so many (possibly corroding) connections? I'm afraid there are Salt Ions on the loose. Any suggestions / comments / pointers appreciated! Um, Maybe should start another thread farther up the Forum tree for that???
Regards all, Terry
I was able to ziptie the fuseholder a bit away from the edge and was able after some juggling to get the top cover completely in place (Always difficult).
Still runs OK.. that will be the situation until May.. I need to go back to Eqypt in 3 weeks; my wife has a job in an International School in Cairo. I will be working "at home" there on Educational Kits for EE students for next school year. Nice little light microcomputers and low currents!
BUT: I am wondering what's the best "Put a car to semisleep for 3 months" approach?? In the past it's been Fresh fuel and Stabil and Battery Maintainer. Worked OK several other times. MAYBE it would be better to disconnect battery and leave the maintainer on it. That way there is not 12V across so many (possibly corroding) connections? I'm afraid there are Salt Ions on the loose. Any suggestions / comments / pointers appreciated! Um, Maybe should start another thread farther up the Forum tree for that???
Regards all, Terry
If the 18mV measurement was while the truck was running, okay. But if the truck was shut off, that's more than 4A based on the minifuse (25A) conversion charts, which are estimates. The charts goes to only 10 mV.
I have no idea about the storage issues.
I have no idea about the storage issues.
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TerryKing
Member
OK, AllGood!! and here's the final WhatIDid: Got used 'good' fuse block assembly. Disconnected battery negative.
- Used "Deoxit" (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006LVEU/) on most all connections:
- On the bench: Removed, cleaned and re-inserted every small fuse and relay on the used fuse block: Coated their pins and used small handle-wipe with Deoxit to clean up the fuse/relay sockets. (Some had a little white deposit).
- Turned fuse block over and inspected all downward-facing pins large and small. Wiped every one with swab and Deoxit. None looked bad.
- Inspected the mating chassis connectors and made sure they were all physically seated correctly. Did light spray of Deoxit across all those connectors, then wiped any excess on plastic parts.
CAREFULLY positioned the fuse block in place with the arms that secure it. It's fussy to get them at the correct angle. Took couple tries to get the block to finally drop evenly in place. THEN seated the retaining arms that pulled the block down, mating with the chassis connections. Carefully rubber-hammered a little on both ends and assured the block was fully placed and plugged in.
Reconnected battery negative. Drivers seat, seat belt, key, deep breath and VROOM.. Checking.. everything Works!
Long Saga and GREAT help from this Forum...
Best Regards, Terry King ...In The Woods In Vermont
Thanks for following up!
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