2012 Yukon shudder/vibration around 1000 rpm and other quirks...

[MmmBrisket]

Haha, that's crazy! I never realized that's one of their tricks. I've seen those rollers and suction cups they have....weird looking tools, but I guess it works!

My family had an auto body repair shop for about 30 years...I grew up around body repair and paint. We never did paintless dent removal, but I always wondered how it was done. My father considered it "snake oil"...haha.

Yea, it might be good to get it addressed proper at some point...spot weld and filler. But for now, a primer touch up sounds like a good idea.

Another member on this forum is selling his Range AFM disabler for $100. Definitely on the fence now between just grabbing that or waiting a bit to go with the BB tune. I've definitely seen some good reviews about that.

 

[wsteele]

Haha, that's crazy! I never realized that's one of their tricks. I've seen those rollers and suction cups they have....weird looking tools, but I guess it works!

My family had an auto body repair shop for about 30 years...I grew up around body repair and paint. We never did paintless dent removal, but I always wondered how it was done. My father considered it "snake oil"...haha.

Yea, it might be good to get it addressed proper at some point...spot weld and filler. But for now, a primer touch up sounds like a good idea.

Another member on this forum is selling his Range AFM disabler for $100. Definitely on the fence now between just grabbing that or waiting a bit to go with the BB tune. I've definitely seen some good reviews about that.

$100 for a Range disabler is a good price. I sold mine for $150 on eBay.

I decided I wanted mine disabled in software as we have semi annual emissions tests here and to complete the test, I can’t have a Range device plugged into the ODB port. In addition, for what ever reason, when I would pull my Range device out, it would reset my emissions monitors and would take over a busy weeks worth of driving to complete them such that I would pass the test.

I just didn’t like the idea of having 700 heat cycles on an idle AFM system and then have to run it for a week or two, just to get ready for my emissions test.

So I turned mine off with the Diablo device. From everything I have read, the BB tune is a better approach, for a lot of reasons.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

$100 for a Range disabler is a good price. I sold mine for $150 on eBay.

I decided I wanted mine disabled in software as we have semi annual emissions tests here and to complete the test, I can’t have a Range device plugged into the ODB port. In addition, for what ever reason, when I would pull my Range device out, it would reset my emissions monitors and would take over a busy weeks worth of driving to complete them such that I would pass the test.

I just didn’t like the idea of having 700 heat cycles on an idle AFM system and then have to run it for a week or two, just to get ready for my emissions test.

So I turned mine off with the Diablo device. From everything I have read, the BB tune is a better approach, for a lot of reasons.

Mines Diablew tuned as well. I’m gonna attempt to swap in a mild cam and see if he can tune for it, otherwise I have to get the BB tune…

 

[wsteele]

Mines Diablew tuned as well. I’m gonna attempt to swap in a mild cam and see if he can tune for it, otherwise I have to get the BB tune…

When I got my Predator 2, I was a little put off by the primitive software update process, it just seemed a little glitchy (totally subjective). I also have not read a great deal of ringing endorsements on the canned tunes they offer. When I read about the BB product, they really seem to do a great job for people.

I will say the Predator 2 itself has been faultless in using it to turn off the AFM as well as when I played with it for resetting tire size calibrations (I have been pondering some new A/T tires and wanted to see if it would change the calibration). Frankly the way I drive my truck these days, not sure a "tune" would make a big difference anyway. I drive probably 60% of my time these days at 20-25 MPH or less, on forest roads and 4x tracks.

 

[the_tool_man]

+1 for BB tune. They can do a lot more than the Range device. I had them turn off AFM, firm up the transmission shifts, and turn off the downstream O2 sensors for future exhaust system upgrades. He turned off the speed limiter, too, after asking me if I wanted him to. During the drive, he was able to run through some diagnostics, too, which was nice. I learned that my O2 sensors needed to be replaced, but my coils, plugs and wires were still good. This cost $350, and included free lifetime re-tunes if I modify things further.

 

[MmmBrisket]

Hey guys,

Just wanted to share an update...

I was able to get the warranty company to approve the work.

The transmission shop confirmed the torque converter was having issues and the owner was very familiar with this particular vehicle and issues (AFM + torque converter), so that was a plus.

I told him I didn't want the same factory crap installed and he told me he uses a third party that creates a far superior aftermarket replacement. Thankfully, the warranty company approved the extra expense.

He called me just now and confirmed that the shudder is all but gone, but that there is still a very slight sensation when the AFM engages. It sounded like you all mentioned this is common and that at this point, I just need to delete that thing?

If that's the case, then I'm going to go the Black Bear route.

Big thanks to you all for the advice. Please let me know if there is anything I'm missing here...or any red flags.

 

[wsteele]

Hey guys,

Just wanted to share an update...

I was able to get the warranty company to approve the work.

The transmission shop confirmed the torque converter was having issues and the owner was very familiar with this particular vehicle and issues (AFM + torque converter), so that was a plus.

I told him I didn't want the same factory crap installed and he told me he uses a third party that creates a far superior aftermarket replacement. Thankfully, the warranty company approved the extra expense.

He called me just now and confirmed that the shudder is all but gone, but that there is still a very slight sensation when the AFM engages. It sounded like you all mentioned this is common and that at this point, I just need to delete that thing?

If that's the case, then I'm going to go the Black Bear route.

Big thanks to you all for the advice. Please let me know if there is anything I'm missing here...or any red flags.

Glad you found the issue with your TC, that @Geotrash dude saved you some serious inconvenience.

I would definitely turn AFM off. I prefer turning it off in SW, versus the Range device, you can get your ECU flashed with AFM off from this guy for like $50.

https://www.lt1swap.com/afm_delete.htm

On the high end, I have never heard a single complaint regarding Black Bear's service, most rave about the results.

Sounds like you are getting that thing dialed.

Next stop 200K miles.

 

[MmmBrisket]

Glad you found the issue with your TC, that @Geotrash dude saved you some serious inconvenience.

Yea, you all were a great help!

Sounds like you are getting that thing dialed.

I hope so! I may just take your advice with the $50 option for now, as this AFM thing annoys me.

I actually drove it back home recently, from the transmission shop, and I can definitely still feel it unfortunately. It's not as bad as it was, but it's still there. The owner of the transmission shop felt really bad that it was still there and said he drove it around with the scanner and is 100% certain that the shudder/vibration is always when the AFM kicks in.

And I don't know much about mechanics (family biz was auto body repair), so not sure if the TC changes the way you feel power/torque...I am guessing by the name "torque converter", that I would feel a difference. But it definitely feels like the power transfers better.

There is one odd thing that I noticed about the idle and I don't believe it was like this before it went to the shop. But the idle has sort of a weird sound to it. I recorded an audio file of it and you can listen to it here.

I took that recording by holding it up to the front of the grille.

 

[Geotrash]

If you kneel down beside the truck and stick you ear under where the transmission is, is it audible there as well, and is it any louder?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[wsteele]

Yea, you all were a great help!



I hope so! I may just take your advice with the $50 option for now, as this AFM thing annoys me.

I actually drove it back home recently, from the transmission shop, and I can definitely still feel it unfortunately. It's not as bad as it was, but it's still there. The owner of the transmission shop felt really bad that it was still there and said he drove it around with the scanner and is 100% certain that the shudder/vibration is always when the AFM kicks in.

And I don't know much about mechanics (family biz was auto body repair), so not sure if the TC changes the way you feel power/torque...I am guessing by the name "torque converter", that I would feel a difference. But it definitely feels like the power transfers better.

There is one odd thing that I noticed about the idle and I don't believe it was like this before it went to the shop. But the idle has sort of a weird sound to it. I recorded an audio file of it and you can listen to it here.

I took that recording by holding it up to the front of the grille.

Unfortunately, it doesn’t seem to want to play on my iPad.