2012 Yukon XL Denali 6.2L Cam Swap Thread

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wsteele

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We have our smoking gun. This lifter is from the #2 cylinder and was starting to fail the exact same way that the Vinci lifter failed on the first cam swap. I believe what’s happening is I made the mistake of reusing the lifter trays from Vinci, and they do not hold the lifter well enough to keep it from rotating slightly as it moves. You can see the chipping damage which is present on the complete circumference of the lifter wheel. I have new Chevrolet Performance trays on the way, but unfortunately the cam will have to come out. Moral of the story: use OEM lifter trays.

View attachment 350095
Do you think the lifter trays were the original problem, even with the Vinci hardware?
 
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Dave
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Do you think the lifter trays were the original problem, even with the Vinci hardware?
That’s a good question, thanks for asking. But it’s starting to look that way, unfortunately. From everything I can find, that type of lift or roller damage is from sliding along the cam at an angle.
 

wsteele

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That’s a good question, thanks for asking. But it’s starting to look that way, unfortunately. From everything I can find, that type of lift or roller damage is from sliding along the cam at an angle.
I hope you don’t mind that I haven’t gone back to reread the early days, but did he ever bring up the trays as a possible source of the failure?
 
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Dave
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I hope you don’t mind that I haven’t gone back to reread the early days, but did he ever bring up the trays as a possible source of the failure?
No. I raised it to him as a possibility given the unique damage signature but he was convinced it was a piece of debris that did it. Funny thing is that it’s easier to twist a lifter in that particular tray slot than it is the others, too.
 
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Dave
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I’m debating now whether to go with the same cam, with something slightly different, or back to stock. The BTR cam only has .553 lift but with the duration the ramps end up being pretty aggressive, and while it’s relatively quiet, it’s audible and likely harder on springs and lifters. It also lacks VVT. On the other hand I love the power is produces for towing, the idle lope, and the simplicity of installation.
 
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Dave
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Got the cam out this afternoon. Only that one lifter showed any damage, except one of them that had a small circumferential scratch around the roller, but hardly noticeable. However it corresponded with a second lobe that had considerable damage - looks to be from a piece of debris - possibly one of the chips from the failed lifter. Cam bearings look good.

Lobe with the damaged lifter:
C072D277-A7C3-43C4-9969-F1C7E23D7556.jpeg

Lobe with the fod damage:
09CE7F99-7F40-4472-AA3A-873B3C1482B8.jpeg

Now I’m worried about debris in the rest of the engine. Whadda y’all think?
 
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Dave
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Got the cam out this afternoon. Only that one lifter showed any damage, except one of them that had a small circumferential scratch around the roller, but hardly noticeable. However it corresponded with a second lobe that had considerable damage - looks to be from a piece of debris - possibly one of the chips from the failed lifter. Cam bearings look good.

Lobe with the damaged lifter:
View attachment 350130

Lobe with the fod damage:
View attachment 350131

Now I’m worried about debris in the rest of the engine. Whadda y’all think?
Whelp, decided to order a cam motion cam. Stage 2 but with smooth idle and designed for stock valve springs and with good durability, which has been my primary goal all along. I already have the upgraded springs installed, but this way they’ll last longer, and it will hopefully be mouse-fart quiet.


Specs are:
Duration at .050 - 212/220
Lift with 1.7 - .501/.501
Lobe separation 117
Intake center line 112
 

wsteele

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On the concern about floating stuff, I think I would replace the top end stuff, take a close look at the oil pump.

I would keep a close eye on it cutting the filter apart and doing regular oil analysis to make sure the trends are in the right direction and call it good.
 
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On the concern about floating stuff, I think I would replace the top end stuff, take a close look at the oil pump.

I would keep a close eye on it cutting the filter apart and doing regular oil analysis to make sure the trends are in the right direction and call it good.
Oil analysis is a good idea. I will order some kits from Blackstone. I’ve used them on my aircraft engine for years, and they are legit.

Luckily there is a screen on the pickup tube, but it will only filter out things that have part numbers on them. Lol.

I’m just beyond pissed that the lifter trays have (with 98% probability) been the cause of all of this misery all along. Friends and family, do not let friends use cheap knock-off lifter trays, no matter where they bought them.
 

wsteele

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Oil analysis is a good idea. I will order some kits from Blackstone. I’ve used them on my aircraft engine for years, and they are legit.

Luckily there is a screen on the pickup tube, but it will only filter out things that have part numbers on them. Lol.

I’m just beyond pissed that the lifter trays have (with 98% probability) been the cause of all of this misery all along. Friends and family, do not let friends use cheap knock-off lifter trays, no matter where they bought them.
I don’t wish any small business person ill, but when I go back and look at the chain of events, all I can say is you are a much better person than I.

I would replace my fuel pump to make sure I made it all the way, driven to his place of business and shoved those lifter trays up where the sun never shines. :)

You’re a kind man Dave.
 

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