2013 Tahoe Performance upgrade tips

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Meccanoble

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The catch can has nothing to do with a tune. It's to filter the oil mist from the air inside the engine and store it in a can so that it doesn't get sucked back into the engine. A tune is reprogramming the fuel and ignition tables in the PCM to optimize performance, whether it be for a stock or modified engine. Other functions such as transmission shifting can be changed as well. If you want a tune, you should wait until you have all of your bolt-on mods completed so that the PCM can be tuned to optimize performance for all of the mods. You can always have a custom tune modified or removed and the stock tuning returned to the PCM.




Changing the stock filter to a cone style isn't worth the effort. The stock filter flows more CFM than what the engine can pull in while effectively cleaning the air. An aftermarket filter may or may not filter as well- why risk it? If you're looking to spend $120 on the intake ($60 eBay kit and $60 filter), you should just get an Airaid MIT and be done with it: Far less work, proven gains, no compromises.

BTW, are we really benefitting from the AIRAID tube more than an ebay tube? I was thinking for half the price, you can get ebay kit and just not use the filter, just use tube and attach to stock box. Any issues with this? Someone mentioned not getting the improved sound but that could be based off expectations on loudness.

For a meaner growl and similar performance, can we grab ebay intake tube?
 

iamdub

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Well they werent cheaper, they were more $ but they were oil based filters similar to K&N but better rep. I forget name (B&M or something) but I remember paying 90 for one and it didnt need to be cleaned for longer than the stock one along with supposed gains. They were better recommended because the quality of frame of filter and they didnt over oil which is probably #1 cause of MAF's going bad. But I'll end up doing what you do.

S&B filter? Good stuff. I read up on a few comparison tests and the AEM DryFlow filtered as good as a stock paper filter while flowing as good and/or better, so that's why I had no problem dropping that in my filter box regardless of getting it for "free". I have more trust in a filter that performs as well or better than stock with a dry media rather than one that relies on a specific amount of oil in it to meet a certain level of efficiency- Not enough oil and it's not as effective, too much oil and it screws up your MAF sensor and cakes the intake (As if these engines need something else doing that!).


BTW, are we really benefitting from the AIRAID tube more than an ebay tube? I was thinking for half the price, you can get ebay kit and just not use the filter, just use tube and attach to stock box. Any issues with this? Someone mentioned not getting the improved sound but that could be based off expectations on loudness.

For a meaner growl and similar performance, can we grab ebay intake tube?


I don't see why there would be any increased performance with one over the other. The Airaid does have a nice (possibly engineered?) shape to it where it bellows out then smoothly tapers back in to funnel the air into the throttle body. Really, I think it only bellows out like that because it flattens to allow space for the radiator hose to pass under it. It flattens but widens to make up for it so there's no loss of internal volume to create a bottleneck (restriction). I don't believe this makes any measurable difference over the simpler, consistent-diameter aluminum tubes on eBay. For performance, I'd say they're all comparable. For sound, I'd say there is a difference because an aluminum tube is gonna have different harmonics than an ABS tube. Nothing more. The hitch in all of it is adapting the tube diameter to the filter box and MAF diameters. Just measure the diameters of those parts (I don't remember what they are, but I know it's not a "standard/even" size) and get silicone couplings that adapt/taper those diameters to the tube's diameter. If I had the time to piece it together, I surely would've done this. But I wanted the instant gratification and black plastic "somewhat OEM" look. You can get bits and pieces to make up your own from places such as siliconeintakes.com
 
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Meccanoble

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Your break down of aluminum vs plastic and how it plays a role with harmonics is enough to make me get the air raid. After all, we are buying this more for sound than anything and since I wont be touching exhaust anytime soon, might as well maximize sound benefits in this thing. Thanks for your break down :)
 

sumo

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Wow that's awesome :favorites37:
So the mufflers with no resonator is mainly for sound? Or it has effect on performance/gain?

And btw are those 22" rims? What tire size?

It felt more responsive when I did the muffler. Resonator was just for sound.
My setup is using stock 2.75 piping, magnaflow muffler, resonator delete and volant side exit tips.

I have 285/45/22

Same exhaust setup, but now with ARH 1 7/8 and supercharger but the difference is in the video

 

Meccanoble

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Sumo! Magnaflow muffler created that sound at WOT?! Or is it because you have the supercharger? OMG sounds crazy! ARH 1 7/8, what is that?
 

sumo

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American racing longtube headers. I chose the 1 7/8 because better flow with supercharger. For non forced you be better off with 1 3/4

Replacing stock cast iron headers alone to stainless steel will change the sound big time. Supercharger even more so.
 

pcowner

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what would you guys recommend to improve gas mileage, I'm getting 11-12 in a city, gentle driving? I have 09 LT, 135K
 

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