2013 Yukon Xl

[ahulsey]

ding ding!! @intheburbs is right!! you have a ground problem. i bet 1 or both grounds on the back of the engine to the firewall and frame are bad or broken. i intended to put a big system in the truck , so one of the first things i did was replaced ALL the grounds and cleaned all the grounding points. then i used the super lube to keep them from corroding. i'd say it had the most impact on my system when i did the grounds. i also added a couple i felt were missing. keep us updated plz.

Thank u and @intheburbs so very much. I’m hoping this isn’t as pricey as everything else cuz I’m about to my wits spending all this $. I sure hope they will just replace all that u said cuz I don’t think they were finding it. I just want over and I will for sure keep u updated. I appreciate the help so much.

 

[ahulsey]

ding ding!! @intheburbs is right!! you have a ground problem. i bet 1 or both grounds on the back of the engine to the firewall and frame are bad or broken. i intended to put a big system in the truck , so one of the first things i did was replaced ALL the grounds and cleaned all the grounding points. then i used the super lube to keep them from corroding. i'd say it had the most impact on my system when i did the grounds. i also added a couple i felt were missing. keep us updated plz.

Question I just thought of something I didn’t even think about. Shop said my drivers motor Mount is going bad. I plan on getting it fixed this week which is another $400 but wanted to get this problem fixed. By chance could the motor be moving and knocking these wires?

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@ahulsey I think that could be a possibility, but also someone could have just left something loose when doing your lifters. The heads need to come off and both heads have a ground on them.

There is one on the driver side that connects to the firewall with a braided metal cable and there is one on the passenger side that is a thick black cable that connects to the negative battery terminal. Might be worth inspecting them.

I could speculate on the internet all night

 

[ahulsey]

@ahulsey I think that could be a possibility, but also someone could have just left something loose when doing your lifters. The heads need to come off and both heads have a ground on them.

There is one on the driver side that connects to the firewall with a braided metal cable and there is one on the passenger side that is a thick black cable that connects to the negative battery terminal. Might be worth inspecting them.

I could speculate on the internet all night

True and I understand without seeing it it’s hard, but I truly appreciate your knowledge of possibilities. I’m just trying to prevent keep putting $ in and the problem isn’t being fixed so I’m going to have them check what u said because this sounds like the best case scenario. Thank u

 

[Doubeleive]

True and I understand without seeing it it’s hard, but I truly appreciate your knowledge of possibilities. I’m just trying to prevent keep putting $ in and the problem isn’t being fixed so I’m going to have them check what u said because this sounds like the best case scenario. Thank u

what is the history of this vehicle? is it rusty? water damaged?

 

[ctd01]

@ahulsey I think that could be a possibility, but also someone could have just left something loose when doing your lifters. The heads need to come off and both heads have a ground on them.

There is one on the driver side that connects to the firewall with a braided metal cable and there is one on the passenger side that is a thick black cable that connects to the negative battery terminal. Might be worth inspecting them.

I could speculate on the internet all night

There are actually 2 on the front of the passengers side head. Large one and a small one. In my experience the braided ones usually fail first but def check them all along with the connections at the actual battery. Yes a motor mount can cause the ground wire to fail if the engine is moving too much. As for your multiple lifter failures. Did they replace the VLOM at the time of lifter replacement? Good news is #5 isn't an active lifter. I would look into a plug, coil or even a wire. I cant say I have seen an injector go bad on one of these but anything is possible. I had a service 4x4 light on a silverado not long ago. The front actuator had no ground. Under the driver side front door about midway are a few grounds screwed right to the body mount bracket on the frame. Check those out. If it were me I would change the eyelets and clean the frame where they mate. Best if you had a scan tool to see exactly what the code is but these are common issues I see.

 

[ahulsey]

Thank u and @intheburbs so very much. I’m hoping this isn’t as pricey as everything else cuz I’m about to my wits spending all this $. I sure hope they will just replace all that u said cuz I don’t think they were finding it. I just want over and I will for sure keep u updated. I appreciate the help so much.

Update- just picked it back up at shop and he said he went thru every wire and found that someone had put the fuel injector wires mixed up and they were kinda torn or something like this. Don’t quote my words on it all but I’ve now drove 3 miles and no lights have popped up as of yet thank u all sooo very much! U truly helped ease my mind and whether me telling them or not but because of y’all I stayed adoment about them checking wires and this was found. So hopefully my problem is fixed.

 

[Doubeleive]

Update- just picked it back up at shop and he said he went thru every wire and found that someone had put the fuel injector wires mixed up and they were kinda torn or something like this. Don’t quote my words on it all but I’ve now drove 3 miles and no lights have popped up as of yet thank u all sooo very much! U truly helped ease my mind and whether me telling them or not but because of y’all I stayed adoment about them checking wires and this was found. So hopefully my problem is fixed.

that would really make me wonder about how long has it has been like that and could the other issue's have been misdiagnosed because of it

 

[swathdiver]

Help please! 2013 Yukon XL no problems then had lifters put in about 7 months ago. The other night driving all or most but for sure traction control and other lights started flashing and engine bogging down. Took to shop and mechanic said lifters again so I have them done. Pull away noticing a/c which was set on high but would go low then back up at random. Went to gas station and filled up then truck dead. Got jumped and back to shop. They said alternator bad so replaced that. Then comes out saying battery bad too. Replaced that. Drove away and dash lights back on and off but this time now hood open flashing and beeping too. Checked hood and it was closed. Go back to shop and he sprayed wd-40 on hood latch but lights were off by the time I got back there besides hood open. Leave again and lights back on. Took back and left there. Shop calls and says all due to a faulty phone charger plugged in. Go get it and leave. No problem for 5 miles then sitting in pickup line at school and service engine light came on and all gages dropped and went back up not affecting power to truck. Went back to shop and they said ground wire. I told them keep it and drive it for a week and they did saying no problems. I get in and drove about 5 miles again and lights back occasionally flashing service engine light on code reading misfire on 5 and now check 4wd just popped up. Idk what to do but after spending $4,000 I’m just lost. I can’t keep putting $ into it when the problem isn’t getting fixed. Any ideas? It’s driving fine but all the lights scare me.

When an AFM repair is made, the lifter trays and VLOM MUST be replaced, it is standard operating procedure. It is the solenoids in the VLOM that get tired, firing out of time, which damages and destroys the lifters the majority of the time when it comes to AFM failures. Anyone not replacing the VLOM is not following the book.

All those electrical gremlins were not because of the old battery or alternator, it's likely a ground strap issue on the engine since they had to disconnect them to do the AFM work. If they had used their bi-directional scan tool, it would have alluded to this in seconds. They're either lazy, incompetent or dishonest.

On rare occasions, the BCM gets damaged and causes shorts like this from the battery not being disconnected/connected properly. Always pull the negative cable first and replace it last. Again, a bi-directional scan tool like the Tech-2 can help to quickly diagnose this. You ought to get one to keep these shysters from emptying your wallet. Even if you lack the time or skills to fix it, a proper diagnosis can keep you from being taken advantage of by those you farm the work out to.

 

[swathdiver]

Update- just picked it back up at shop and he said he went thru every wire and found that someone had put the fuel injector wires mixed up and they were kinda torn or something like this. Don’t quote my words on it all but I’ve now drove 3 miles and no lights have popped up as of yet thank u all sooo very much! U truly helped ease my mind and whether me telling them or not but because of y’all I stayed adoment about them checking wires and this was found. So hopefully my problem is fixed.

I don't believe that, they discovered that one or more of the grounds was loose and tightened it. If there was something wrong with the injector harness, the motor would not have run right. Anyway, drive it a few more days and give us an update if you don't mind.