2014 PPV Suspension

[dontsleeponppv]

Hi yall,

I recently purchased a 2014 PPV with 100k miles, I love everything about it except it rides a little too rough. I've looked at multiple suspension threads but they all left me with more questions. Roughly, I need to swap the struts, coils and shocks but are all three failing or could I replace one at a time to find the culprit? I prefer the lowered look and Belltech seems to be the recommended brand but the links to the products are broken in old threads. Could you throw me any suggestions/links?

I live in a small town in Texas so the roads are rough and rarely get fixed but I feel way less stable driving the PPV out here than any other vehicle I've owned. At high speeds, there's a lot of play in the steering wheel making it difficult to stay in a straight line even while making constant micro adjustments. (Thought it was supposed to handle better at high speeds )

I'd appreciate any and all advice!

 

[Sparksalot]

Congrats on the PPV. One wasn’t enough for me. It’s mainly the spring rates you’re dealing with. The front are standard height, but significantly stiffer. Rear shocks and springs are shorter, to give the stance. I haven’t seen if the spring rate is any stiffer.

for the wandering, I’d guess your tie rod ends and/or bushings are worn. I had to replace the tie rod ends right away on theothertwin. I’ve also done the front hubs on both. Thecopcar had 170k when I bought it, theothertwin had 180k.

 

[Bill 1960]

If you have a lot of play in the steering wheel there’s worn parts in the front (and potentially the rear). Depending on how worn, potentially dangerous. An experienced mech or DIY person can usually spot it with a quick inspection.

Shocks apply only to the rear in this vehicle. The usual test is bouncing on the bumper with your full weight to rock it and see if it bounces more than once when you release it.

Front is a coilover, which is a unitized spring and strut. The strut is the shock in this assembly. Same diagnostic procedure. An experienced tech can identify worn shocks and struts with a test drive, because the symptoms of a floaty, wallowing ride.

You might consider taking it to a shop and getting an assessment and quote. Then get back to us with their recommendations and we can help you sort out how to get it done right without breaking the bank.

 

[dontsleeponppv]

Congrats on the PPV. One wasn’t enough for me. It’s mainly the spring rates you’re dealing with. The front are standard height, but significantly stiffer. Rear shocks and springs are shorter, to give the stance. I haven’t seen if the spring rate is any stiffer.

for the wandering, I’d guess your tie rod ends and/or bushings are worn. I had to replace the tie rod ends right away on theothertwin. I’ve also done the front hubs on both. Thecopcar had 170k when I bought it, theothertwin had 180k.

Thank you, glad to have found a dedicated PPV section of the web. I've seen your name a lot in threads and dig the twins. Maybe once I get mine to where I want it to be, i'll look at buying another lol. I'll definitely have a mechanic look at the tie rods and bushings this Saturday also.

If you have a lot of play in the steering wheel there’s worn parts in the front (and potentially the rear). Depending on how worn, potentially dangerous. An experienced mech or DIY person can usually spot it with a quick inspection.

Shocks apply only to the rear in this vehicle. The usual test is bouncing on the bumper with your full weight to rock it and see if it bounces more than once when you release it.

Front is a coilover, which is a unitized spring and strut. The strut is the shock in this assembly. Same diagnostic procedure. An experienced tech can identify worn shocks and struts with a test drive, because the symptoms of a floaty, wallowing ride.

You might consider taking it to a shop and getting an assessment and quote. Then get back to us with their recommendations and we can help you sort out how to get it done right without breaking the bank.

Thank you for the detailed response, really cleared up a lot of my confusion with each part as I'm not too mechanical savvy. It seems that my best bet is to take it to a trusted mechanic like you mentioned and see what they recommend. I should have a quote Saturday and hopefully yall can recommend where to go from there.



Really appreciate the quick responses, the PPV community is more than I could ask for.

 

[Shackman7878]

Take the front wheel off or turn the wheel and check for the part numbers on the strut and shock. also check the RPO codes in the glove box also helps if your friends with the local dealer parts guy ask him for a print out quote for front and back shocks and struts have the Vin number handy. Pm me the vin number I can send the build sheet when I log on to the system.

 

[dontsleeponppv]

Here are the two quotes I received, my mechanic suggested that the rear shocks were causing the issue but I also need to replace the front control arms, tie rods and struts. What do yall think and how should I proceed.

Recommended Rear Shock Quote


Suggested Repairs Quote

 

[dontsleeponppv]

I have to admit, I am sort of feeling some buyer's remorse. I expected to put money into the vehicle but mainly on interior and minor cosmestics. I bought a PPV since I knew they had strict mantainence schedules per the county and sell around 100k miles. Which I assumed I'd be safer than buying a used car traded in for who knows what reason. I expected wear and tear due to being a pursuit vehicle but adding another 2k ontop of the price I paid before the cosmetics, I would have been better off buying something else.

 

[Sparksalot]

I have to admit, I am sort of feeling some buyer's remorse. I expected to put money into the vehicle but mainly on interior and minor cosmestics. I bought a PPV since I knew they had strict mantainence schedules per the county and sell around 100k miles. Which I assumed I'd be safer than buying a used car traded in for who knows what reason. I expected wear and tear due to being a pursuit vehicle but adding another 2k ontop of the price I paid before the cosmetics, I would have been better off buying something else.

How mechanically inclined are you? I’ve had similar wishes lists from th3 shop on both of mine, but they were higher mileage. I did as much as I could on my own which has helped on expenses, but also allowed me to get to know them much better too.

 

[dontsleeponppv]

How mechanically inclined are you? I’ve had similar wishes lists from th3 shop on both of mine, but they were higher mileage. I did as much as I could on my own which has helped on expenses, but also allowed me to get to know them much better too.

I haven't touched the engine block/suspension but I've replaced windshield motors, alternators, belts, O2 censors - all the easy top side stuff by watching youtube videos. I could probably tackle suspension but it seems easy to scuff and I don't have proper lifts. Just a few bottle jacks.

 

[swathdiver]

Start out small and take a photo of your front swaybar's end links for us. The little rubber bushings on the ends wear out and fall away. Worn tie rods also contribute to wander as might worn tires.

I recommend that you only use GM OE parts, they last the longest but some more budget minded folks use ACDelco Professional and or MOOGs higher quality parts.

You shouldn't yet need to replace your control arms unless a ball joint has gone bad and prevents alignment.

What are the condition of the rear jounce bumpers? The front ones are inside the strut assembly. If you replace the struts, don't get pre-assembled ones unless a 40-50K or less lifespan is ok with you. Your 6XX and 7XX numbers on your RPO sheet (in the glove box) are your front strut codes.