2014 Yukon XL 4wd Mild Lift Suggestions

[JTsYUKON]

I’ve read several helpful threads on this topic, however, not entirely clear as some have issues at 2.5” lift up front and others don’t. That may be a gray area.

My goal is to run 285/70/17’s. I’m at 135,000 miles, original suspension, so the thought of refreshing that with a strut lift in the 2” range is on my mind, or just a leveling kit like CCM? Other suggestions?

I often pull a light trailer (2300lbs), so I am interested in a spacer lift in the rear too. What do you suggest?

I’d like to avoid needing to change CA’s and trackbars.

Thank you for suggestions. I’ve had good help on here before.

- Jeremy

 

[Dustin Jackson]

I’ve read several helpful threads on this topic, however, not entirely clear as some have issues at 2.5” lift up front and others don’t. That may be a gray area.

My goal is to run 285/70/17’s. I’m at 135,000 miles, original suspension, so the thought of refreshing that with a strut lift in the 2” range is on my mind, or just a leveling kit like CCM? Other suggestions?

I often pull a light trailer (2300lbs), so I am interested in a spacer lift in the rear too. What do you suggest?

I’d like to avoid needing to change CA’s and trackbars.

Thank you for suggestions. I’ve had good help on here before.

- Jeremy

@JTsYUKON Hello Jeremy, I would say that 2.5 inches is the max spacer lift that I would run on stock suspension. After that your upper ball joint angle gets tight and the upper control arm rests on the droop stop inhibiting travel. Above 2.5 inches in the rear your rear axle will start to become off centered because your track bar will be too short.

For a quick lift get the lift with a 2.5 inch spacer in front and the 1 or 1.5 inch rear spacer and you should be good.

at 135,000 it might be time to refresh your shocks and ball joints but if that's not your goal I understand.

If you were in the market to replace other suspension parts I would have recommended something else but what I listed above will get you by without much work, let me know if you have any other questions. I am in the middle of getting my rig sorted out after putting in 3-4 inch of lift.

 

[JTsYUKON]

@JTsYUKON Hello Jeremy, I would say that 2.5 inches is the max spacer lift that I would run on stock suspension. After that your upper ball joint angle gets tight and the upper control arm rests on the droop stop inhibiting travel. Above 2.5 inches in the rear your rear axle will start to become off centered because your track bar will be too short.

For a quick lift get the lift with a 2.5 inch spacer in front and the 1 or 1.5 inch rear spacer and you should be good.

at 135,000 it might be time to refresh your shocks and ball joints but if that's not your goal I understand.

If you were in the market to replace other suspension parts I would have recommended something else but what I listed above will get you by without much work, let me know if you have any other questions. I am in the middle of getting my rig sorted out after putting in 3-4 inch of lift.

I know what you mean about getting your rig sorted out. My Jeep TJ is in year 3-4 and everything just got perfect, dialing out driveline vibes.

But this morning I’m starting on the Jeep XJ 3” Zone and I already broke a bolt.

If I did want to refresh my suspension, what would you suggest? I saw a Rancho strut setup for around $325 and 1.5-2” lift, but I’m mostly in the dark in what works well for our Yukon’s.

Thanks for your help. Good advice!

 

[Dustin Jackson]

I know what you mean about getting your rig sorted out. My Jeep TJ is in year 3-4 and everything just got perfect, dialing out driveline vibes.

But this morning I’m starting on the Jeep XJ 3” Zone and I already broke a bolt.

If I did want to refresh my suspension, what would you suggest? I saw a Rancho strut setup for around $325 and 1.5-2” lift, but I’m mostly in the dark in what works well for our Yukon’s.

Thanks for your help. Good advice!

@JTsYUKON What extend of refreshing your suspension are you thinking? Just shocks, or springs and shocks, or springs and shocks and control arms?

I am running the Bilstein 5100s but that involved moving over the spring from the factory strut to the bilstein one, it can be a pain so Rancho sells the lift struts preassembled so that makes the Ranchos easier to install. I have Moog heavy duty springs front and rear with my Bilsteins so my ride is very firm which I like. If you did the bilstein 5100s with stock springs the ride would be smoother that's for sure. The Bilstein and Rancho struts will give about 2 inches of front lift.

For sake of simplicity it might be easiest to go with the Ranchos and maybe a little rear spacer to get it level. Or you could do the Rancho struts with the Moog heavy duty rear springs. The combinations are endless.

I'm at 3-4 inches and I have Rough Country front upper control arms and an adjustable rear track bar to get everything lined up and my ball joints happy again. I figured if I am going to replace one part I might as well redo everything so I don't have to take the front apart again for a long time. Staying at 2.5 inches of lift should keep things happy as well.

You can check my signature for what my setup is although you already said you didn't want to lift that much.

 

[JTsYUKON]

@JTsYUKON Hello Jeremy, I would say that 2.5 inches is the max spacer lift that I would run on stock suspension. After that your upper ball joint angle gets tight and the upper control arm rests on the droop stop inhibiting travel. Above 2.5 inches in the rear your rear axle will start to become off centered because your track bar will be too short.

For a quick lift get the lift with a 2.5 inch spacer in front and the 1 or 1.5 inch rear spacer and you should be good.

at 135,000 it might be time to refresh your shocks and ball joints but if that's not your goal I understand.

If you were in the market to replace other suspension parts I would have recommended something else but what I listed above will get you by without much work, let me know if you have any other questions. I am in the middle of getting my rig sorted out after putting in 3-4 inch of lift.

I know this is a couple of months old. I ordered a CCM leveling kit for 2014 Yukon with a 2.5” spacer in front and a 1” spacer in rear. Will I need longer shocks in the rear?

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@JTsYUKON You should be ok

 

[JTsYUKON]

@JTsYUKON You should be ok

Thank you. I bought a size up tire for the Yukon (275/70/17), but they rub just slightly at the rear of the front wheel well where I have an aftermarket mud flap. I tried to grind off some of the guard, but it still rubs when turning in reverse. Frustrating, but should this small lift help me clear?

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Thank you. I bought a size up tire for the Yukon (275/70/17), but they rub just slightly at the rear of the front wheel well where I have an aftermarket mud flap. I tried to grind off some of the guard, but it still rubs when turning in reverse. Frustrating, but should this small lift help me clear?

@JTsYUKON It MIGHT. I still rub a little on my daily Tahoe and I just live with it, taking wider multiple point turns.

 

[JTsYUKON]

@JTsYUKON It MIGHT. I still rub a little on my daily Tahoe and I just live with it, taking wider multiple point turns.

Got the CCM leveling kit installed. It was easier than I expected. 2.5” front and 1” rear. The lift amount was accurate to the prediction, and my tires (275/70/17) now clear the rear of the front fender well! It also looks really good. The change is subtle as far as appearance, but readily noticeable at ingress and egress. Pics coming soon.

 

[JTsYUKON]

The new stance. 2.5” front, 1” rear.