2018 Denali/Concerns about engine with too much oil

[swathdiver]

Have really thought about a K&N filter as they were rated very good by some sesters.

The K&N oil filter is tops, nobody comes close.

I like having the 1 inch nut on the bottom to remove the old one too.

 

[Miami-Dade]

Moved you here from 2021+section

 

[Nashoba]

I really hate to tell you this, but I might really regret NOT telling you, so ...

Since BP bought Castrol, their motor oils' quality has been declining.
Other motor oils have been keeping pace, or getting better.
Some non-Group4 oils now outperform some Castrol Group4 formulations in stress testing.
(Nevermind that, years ago, Castrol successfully lobbied to expand the definition of the word 'synthetic' to include motor oil that was NOT artificially synthesized under controlled lab conditions.)

Hopefully your cousin's next vehicle is an electric one, for that vehicle's sake.

The more EXCESS motor oil in the crankcase, the more important it becomes to drive gently and ask as little of the motor oil as reasonably possible.
If you're driving Miss Daisy, an extra 1/2 a quart's not a problem. Racing would be quite another matter.

There are plenty of aftermarket air filters I'd prefer over K&N. They are all FOAM (think desert racing).
Since those are out of my price range, I'll stick with OE-type air filtration media.

My cousin picked up his new 2023 Yukon Denali Wednesday. When we were finalizing out load he and his wife were finishing up their new loan. We gave them 48,924 for the 2018 with 65,186 on it. I told him about the extra oil and that the dealership he was going to have service it locally always put too much oil in out Altima every change. We had the "engine for life" program with 3 free changes a year at 5K and a requirement that we have the engine flushed once a year for $99.00. Anyway, as he guaranteed the engines of every vehicle he sells, even the used ones, I felt obligated to follow the program as long as I owned the Altima. I checked out the engine for life thing on the down low and found he had replaced at no charge 4 or 5 engines in the last two years. So I felt OK about it. Anyway, they ALWAYS FILLED the Altima too full and I took it back three times to have them take some oil out. I finally got tired of the hassle and just went with it as I would get a new engine if they ruined it and them I would go elsewhere or do it myself.

So today I put new oil in it and a new filter, too. I put in 7 quarts, drove it ten miles, came home and checked it and it was indeed low, so I put 1/2 quart in, drove it and came home to fine it was low by just a little. Added the other 1/2 quart, drove it, waited 15 minutes as the operator's manual says, and the oil was dead on.

The odd part is that I was subsequently looking through the receipts and other stuff he gave me since the day he got the 2018 and at the bottom of the random pile, I found a receipt for an oil and filter change with 65,127 miles on it. So he had the oil and filter changed AFTER he got back from Florida. So, at least for the 59 miles since then and the time I took possession, it was overfilled. But the oil was very dark and the filter looked like it had not been changed for quite a while. I really struggled getting it off like it had been on for a year or more. You guys all know how that feels.

So, as of right now, all I know is the oil and filter are brand new with 20 miles or so on them and the oil level is spot on. We will see what develops and if she burns/uses any oil between changes after 5,000 mile intervals.

 

[Nashoba]

People who don't know about cars follow those ridiculous oil change intervals. My mother texted me today and asked if her new Kia was right when it said that she didn't need an oil change for another 8500 miles! I told her they're crazy and to only follow that if she didn't want the motor to last. My dad is not going to change the oil anyways, he's burned through countless engines over the years!

Sometimes records are misplaced, there might have been one early on, you might never know. Doesn't matter if the motor is in good shape and you've already bought it.

Motor takes 8 quarts of oil. Change it and drive on. Take a sample and send it to Blackstone-Labs for analysis. I do this annually for our engines and transmissions. Run the severe service schedule from now on and she should last you a long time.

How do you like that 10-speed?

I haven't driven it enough to judge the transmission. It is very smooth shifting but have not put the spurs to her yet. Maybe tomorrow as it seems I have dealt with the oil issue. Haven't done the oil reset yet, though. Tried a couple of times but did not seem to take. Will have to do some more reading, I guess. I do need to check the torque applied to the lug nuts soon as I just never trust that they are torqued correctly when the tires are rotated or replaced, etc. I have yet, over the last thirty years or so, to find all the lug nuts properly torqued to spec after two hundred miles. Does the 140 lb. ft. apply to these fancy chrome wheels, too. or just to the stamped steel wheels. And what size are those lug nuts? 22, 23, 24 MM? Bigger than 21 MM for sure.

 

[Doubeleive]

your fine, happens more than you know
can you imagine the lawsuits against clown shops like jiffylube, quicklube, oil can henrys and all these joints that hire mcdonalds rejects from adding to much oil?
pfft

 

[Doubeleive]

used one of those places once, driving out of the bay I notice a trail of liquid behind me, drove in a circle and right back in the entrance, freaking idiots

 

[swathdiver]

I haven't driven it enough to judge the transmission. It is very smooth shifting but have not put the spurs to her yet. Maybe tomorrow as it seems I have dealt with the oil issue. Haven't done the oil reset yet, though. Tried a couple of times but did not seem to take. Will have to do some more reading, I guess. I do need to check the torque applied to the lug nuts soon as I just never trust that they are torqued correctly when the tires are rotated or replaced, etc. I have yet, over the last thirty years or so, to find all the lug nuts properly torqued to spec after two hundred miles. Does the 140 lb. ft. apply to these fancy chrome wheels, too. or just to the stamped steel wheels. And what size are those lug nuts? 22, 23, 24 MM? Bigger than 21 MM for sure.

140 foot pounds for steel, aluminum and chrome for my generation. I think the lug nuts are 22 mm, most are either that or 21 mm.

 

[Nashoba]

140 foot pounds for steel, aluminum and chrome for my generation. I think the lug nuts are 22 mm, most are either that or 21 mm.

Swathdiver, you said foot pounds for the torque. I always say foot pounds, too. But in the owner manual, it said pound feet. I wasn't being stupid, at least no more than usual, but quoting the manual. Would be nice to know what all our forum members say.

 

[wjburken]

Swathdiver, you said foot pounds for the torque. I always say foot pounds, too. But in the owner manual, it said pound feet. I wasn't being stupid, at least no more than usual, but quoting the manual. Would be nice to know what all our forum members say.

Technically, from an engineering/physics standpoint, it is pounds-feet, but pretty much everyone says it foot-pounds.

 

[Doubeleive]

unless you mix up inch lbs and use foot lbs instead, but who would do something stupid like that............. >me lol
luckily the easyout worked in my case