2nd battery

[KilluminatiDre]

So I see the spot for the 2nd battery but what type of bracket would I need to hold the battery down?

 

[Doubeleive]

just this little battery holder right here
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-...W-OEM-84-12-/162895301721?hash=item25ed510c59

 

[KilluminatiDre]

just this little battery holder right here
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-...W-OEM-84-12-/162895301721?hash=item25ed510c59

Thank you very much.

 

[Doubeleive]

and then you need this battery cable also, it will run from the starter underneath the bottom of the engine and up to the drivers side battery area and will clip in place there are little plastic connectors on the cable. for grounds you can just have a couple made up by any audio shop should be cheaper, run one to the frame and another to the alternator mounting bracket
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDelco-25...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[KilluminatiDre]

and then you need this battery cable also, it will run from the starter underneath the bottom of the engine and up to the drivers side battery area and will clip in place there are little plastic connectors on the cable. for grounds you can just have a couple made up by any audio shop should be cheaper, run one to the frame and another to the alternator mounting bracket
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDelco-25825642-Battery-Cable/292007304887?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

What exactly does this cable do?

 

[Doubeleive]

What exactly does this cable do?

it is the cable to the starter from the second battery, hooks up with the one from the original battery, connects both batteries to the starter.
some people do it different ways but that is the oem method.

 

[KilluminatiDre]

it is the cable to the starter from the second battery, hooks up with the one from the original battery, connects both batteries to the starter.
some people do it different ways but that is the oem method.

Gotcha. Ill be using the 2nd batteey for more reserve power for an audio system.

 

[BigDaddy13440]

Gotcha. Ill be using the 2nd batteey for more reserve power for an audio system.

Doing the same for my XL once weather breaks, and I can work on it outside. I have (2) new 1000ca/850cca dual terminal group 34/78 batteries, with Orion terminals for each - (2) 1/0 connections, and (2) 4ga connections.



With these, I'll be doing:

(2) 1/0 positive runs from the alternator to the front battery
(2) 1/0 ground runs to the body and chassis from the front battery
(2) 1/0 positive runs from the front battery to the secondary battery
(2) 1/0 ground runs to the body and chassis from the secondary battery
(2) 1/0 positive fused runs from the secondary battery to the rear fused distribution block
(2) 1/0 positive runs from the distribution block to my subwoofer amplifier
(2) 1/0 ground runs from the subwoofer amplifier with dual 1/0 to single 1/0 reducers
(1) 1/0 positive run from first distribution block to a second fused distribution block
(2) 8ga positive runs from secondary block to two smaller amplifiers for door speakers
(2) 8ga ground runs, one from each smaller amp to ground

I know, it's definitely overkill for what amps I'll be running - probably a 1200-1500 watt RMS for the subs, a 50x4 or similar for my doors, and a 100x2 or similar for my midbass 10's in my center console.

In addition, I'm also doing a 1/0 ground from the alternator to the frame, and another to the body. Upgrading the 6ga positive for the starter to a 4ga run, and adapting any other accessories to 4ga.

I already have 50' of "supposed" 1/0 wire, but it is smaller than the 1/0 terminal ends I have. Luckily, a very good friend owns Performance Wire and Cable, he said he has true 1/0 CCA wire that I can have for nearly nothing.

 

[KilluminatiDre]

Doing the same for my XL once weather breaks, and I can work on it outside. I have (2) new 1000ca/850cca dual terminal group 34/78 batteries, with Orion terminals for each - (2) 1/0 connections, and (2) 4ga connections.

View attachment 193085

With these, I'll be doing:

(2) 1/0 positive runs from the alternator to the front battery
(2) 1/0 ground runs to the body and chassis from the front battery
(2) 1/0 positive runs from the front battery to the secondary battery
(2) 1/0 ground runs to the body and chassis from the secondary battery
(2) 1/0 positive fused runs from the secondary battery to the rear fused distribution block
(2) 1/0 positive runs from the distribution block to my subwoofer amplifier
(2) 1/0 ground runs from the subwoofer amplifier with dual 1/0 to single 1/0 reducers
(1) 1/0 positive run from first distribution block to a second fused distribution block
(2) 8ga positive runs from secondary block to two smaller amplifiers for door speakers
(2) 8ga ground runs, one from each smaller amp to ground

I know, it's definitely overkill for what amps I'll be running - probably a 1200-1500 watt RMS for the subs, a 50x4 or similar for my doors, and a 100x2 or similar for my midbass 10's in my center console.

In addition, I'm also doing a 1/0 ground from the alternator to the frame, and another to the body. Upgrading the 6ga positive for the starter to a 4ga run, and adapting any other accessories to 4ga.

I already have 50' of "supposed" 1/0 wire, but it is smaller than the 1/0 terminal ends I have. Luckily, a very good friend owns Performance Wire and Cable, he said he has true 1/0 CCA wire that I can have for nearly nothing.

Very nice. I don't think it's overkill at all. If you decide to add power later you'll have most of the work done already for it.

I'm building by system piece by piece as I get the money for each items. I did the big 3 already, ran my power wire using 1/0 welding cable which is true 1/0, built the box, and got one of the subs so far.

Ultimately the system will result in:

2 Northstar Group 34 AGM batteries up front
CES 370a hairpin ** alternator
Wolfram W-4500
(2) 15'' Sundown Zv3 in a 8.5 cu ft after displacement box tuned to 30 hz
Rockford Forgate Prime R165X3 door speakers
Rockford Forgate R250X4

I'm probably going to need one of the Northstars asap. My current battery isn't doing too well with and there's isn't even anything hooked up to it. If the vehicle is off something as small as interior lights will drain it pretty fast.

 

[BigDaddy13440]

Very nice. I don't think it's overkill at all. If you decide to add power later you'll have most of the work done already for it.

CES 370a hairpin ** alternator
Wolfram W-4500

Oh yeah, I forgot the alternator - 253 amp GM 3500 series ** option, $115 on E-bay.

I won't ever be going (much) bigger, I haul tools and materials all the time (am a General Contractor, and install for Lowe's). I might upgrade my Powerbass 10's and my sub amp, but my enclosure is fabbed into the rear quarter panel, I can't squeeze 12's in it. I might upgrade to Massive Audio GTX or TOROX 10's, American Bass XD 10's, or maybe even some Dayton Audio ** DVC 10's. Ideally, I'd like to find the most efficient subs I can find (the Massive GTX's sensitivity is 87.5dB @1w/1m, the TOROX's are 86.5, AB's are 91-92 dB (depends on where you look), while the Daytons have a sensitivity of 90.5 dB). Power wise, the GTX's are 700 rms/1400 max, TOROX's are 1000/2000, the AB's are 450/900, while the Dayton's are 600/1200. Every 3db in sensitivity is equal to double the power applied, so, for example, if the GTX's are being pushed by 500 watts each, theoretically the Dayton's would only need 1/2 of that power to reach the same output. If the same 500 watts is applied to the Dayton's, they should theoretically be 3dB louder. The AB's don't even need the full 500 watts to be "as loud" as the Dayton's, as their sensitivity is higher - which is a good thing, as the RMS on the AB's is 150 watts less than the Dayton's.

And then there is the musicality factor. I don't want my tunes to sound like a tin can being beaten to death, nor like loud farts from a greased hippopotamus. I like my bass loud, but to smack me in the back of the head, like I got hit with a flat shovel. I don't want to even consider doing hairtricks, SPL ain't my thing - loud is good, but being accurate is better. I'd much rather only hit 130dB and sound great vs hitting 150dB and having my truck sound like my ex-girlfriend queefing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Massive-Au...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 - $74 each

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Massive-Au...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 - $160 each

https://www.ebay.com/itm/American-B...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 - $89 each

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-**-dvc-subwoofer--295-463 - $140 each