2wd to 4wd conversion.

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Foot0069

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I've just found an ultra clean 96 Sub 2wd. I'm buying it, but in order to use it here in the winter, it has to have 4wd. My question is, would it be a bolt on conversion, or would there be mounting tabs and such missing from the frame. I'm aware of all the hardware requirements, I believe. IE gear ratios, transfer case, half shafta, spindles, driveshafts, cross members, tcase shift mechanism. It's a 5.7 LT GMC. The wrenching isn't an issue as I'll be doing it myself. I already have a good manual transfer case and shifter, front diff, axles, and spindles. If the push button shifter is electric rather than electronic, I'd prefer that.
Thanks in advance for any information
Jim
 

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wjburken

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If I remember correctly from working on my dads 1997 C1500 and my sons 1997 K1500 trucks, the front end will need a lot of attention. I don’t recall seeing all the same cross members on the 2WD as the 4WD as far as mounting the front differential.

Speaking of the front differential, you will need a way to engage and disengage the actuator on there. I’m not sure how that all ties in to the transfer case. My bet would be that going with the floor mount manual transfer case lever will be easiest. Not sure I’d want to get into all the wiring needed to make the dash button set up work.

Not sure if the output shaft is different on the transmission for 2WD vs 4WD and what needs to change to mount the transfer case to it.


Good luck.
 

TollKeeper

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Im curious how he would convert to the Torsion suspension from the spring suspension it currently has. As far as I remember, the holes, and keyways, are not there. Then the replacement of the lower control arms.

The TC and front axle is fairly simple, as a manual transfer case can be used, and a full time AWD front axle could be used to remove the disconnect from the equation. But that comes at a cost of fuel mileage, as the front dif, and transfer case, will all be creating drag.

I have never looked to see if a TCCM and the related hardware, could be wired in.
 

wjburken

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Im curious how he would convert to the Torsion suspension from the spring suspension it currently has. As far as I remember, the holes, and keyways, are not there. Then the replacement of the lower control arms.

The TC and front axle is fairly simple, as a manual transfer case can be used, and a full time AWD front axle could be used to remove the disconnect from the equation. But that comes at a cost of fuel mileage, as the front dif, and transfer case, will all be creating drag.

I have never looked to see if a TCCM and the related hardware, could be wired in.
Like I said, I’m not sure if all the cross members are there. Personally, it’s more work than I’d want to get into.
 

Stonefort

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If I was doing this - I would not be putting in an independent front suspension in. I'd do a solid front axle. It legitimately might be easier to accomplish as well. Way better 4wd capabilities as well for the work you are going to put in. I would suggest contacting Barnes 4wd. They specialize in this and have universal kits and/or might have a kit for your truck / put one together for you. You might have trouble searching for people that have done 2wd to factory independent....most folks are going to go to "sas" (solid axle suspension) if putting in the amount of work it takes to go from 2wd to 4wd.

Here is one I found as well - this is legit 2wd to 4wd "sas" (solid axle suspension) kit.
https://www.offroadunlimited.com/2wd-to-4wd-solid-axle-conversion-kit-60009

Also - I bet several people on pirate4x4.com has accomplished this feat. Might want to go on there and search for threads on it. Searching for "sas" builds on 88 and up trucks will definitely net you some results on what it takes. Here is a list below on post #3.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/chevy-build-thread-list.1029789/
 
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B-train

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As all have stated, these years aren't like the 99 and newer trucks designed to be either/or from the factory. You have a bunch of work ahead of you. I would agree with @Stonefort that a straight axle might end up being the easiest.

If you do go IFS and use a front dif from that generation, I'm pretty sure you just need a powered circuit that gets a closure from contacts on the TC to energize the front diff pin. I could be wrong, but with a manual I case I recall it was pretty straightforward.
 
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Foot0069

Foot0069

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Thanks for the replies. I tried searching here and on the net first for the info with no luck. I know my K1500 has torsion bar front suspension but didn't pick up the the C1500 has coils. So the new sub will sit out the snow when the truck will pick up the duties.
I'm excited about the sub, can't wait to get it home. We live an hour from anywhere. Real shopping is 2 to 3 hours away. The pickup is always a pain to take, the back seat stays full of tools and dog hair. We've an 05 sub LT now that's waiting for me to swap in a motor. That thing is a fully loaded, all wheel drive, auto ride, sunroof sweetheart. But getting rotten, it's a shame really, it rides and handles beautifully. There's just no way to get ahead of rust.
 

B-train

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I used to feel your pain in the rust belt. Then I bought a rust proofing gun and some fluid film. No more rust issues for me, but it's a never ending battle. A little yearly effort goes a long way in keeping the rot from setting in. FWIW

Since your new ride appears to be clean, you have a good starting point to leap from and keep it nice foe years.
 

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