3-Hour Battery change

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Foggy

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j91z28d1: Just came across your response to my post. Good suggestions! Next time will follow your advice regarding putting the posts together before reconnecting a new battery. In the interrim, have changed the three main cables and so far, so good. Regarding the breaking plastic, it's very common in Arizona. Our extreme summer heat and UV from the intense/relentless sunlight rapidly ages plastic, turning it prematurely brittle. A poor material choice for out here, but I'll take that as opposed to road salt corrosion any day! KC
That's the punishment you get in AZ to not deal with salt, sleet, cold, sloppy roads..
NO rust, no corrosion but you have to repaint more due to sun damage and
your interiors go quickly.
Thats why it's a haven for OLD car guys to find project cars.. We are already
going to replace the interiors and paint jobs.. Just need good bones !

But concerning the original topic.. I have been chasing a small gremlin for
about 1.5 years.. Occasional no start/no crank. And if it sets for a week or so the
battery is totally dead. I had already replaced lots of items for main when I did
my supercharger project. The only thing I didn't do was the negative ground
ASSEMBLY. I don't know if the Tahoe is the same.. But my Yuk Denali was
a major PITA as the assembly has a long pigtail that goes up to and under
the front frame/bumper. I thinks it's the main ground for the all headlights, etc
up front... What a PITA... But it's done....
To add, I've still had the dead battery problem when it has sat for many days
in a row. I've had 3 diff batteries in it. I thought I was finally done in
Nov and had no issues, but after our last cold snap - -20 wind, - temps
it sat thru the blizzard for a week and was totally dead. Not even juice
to unlock the doors.....
 

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