#1taho
5150TAHO
yeah buy both and save the headache . If the plugs are corroded or rusty then you can buy just the ends or a whole harness. silicone the rubber plugs and the sensor plugs. and you will never have a problem with them.
6.0L Valley Cover Gasket - How Hard to DIY?
- Thread starter Brake_L8
- Start date
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OP
OP
Brake_L8
Member
Sounds about right. I got all the parts and am waiting on a day with decent weather. Was in the 40s this weekend near DC - no sense doing the job today when it'll be 60s right after Christmas.
OP
OP
Brake_L8
Member
Got around to doing this job yesterday - check out the sludge on the valley cover!
Needed a stepstool to get leverage to remove the cover (it was kinda stuck on thanks to said sludge) so the racecar lent its bumper to the cause:
I'm now facing a fun quirk - the drive to work this morning was my test drive - when the motor warms up, it gets a bit of a bouncy idle (varies by 200 rpm ish) and the dash lights pulse. Kind of seems like an odd vacuum leak, so I need to check the hoses I pulled. Fortunately, I only pulled a few of them so I'm hoping I can find it easily enough.
Needed a stepstool to get leverage to remove the cover (it was kinda stuck on thanks to said sludge) so the racecar lent its bumper to the cause:
I'm now facing a fun quirk - the drive to work this morning was my test drive - when the motor warms up, it gets a bit of a bouncy idle (varies by 200 rpm ish) and the dash lights pulse. Kind of seems like an odd vacuum leak, so I need to check the hoses I pulled. Fortunately, I only pulled a few of them so I'm hoping I can find it easily enough.
treehan77
TYF Fiend
Did this stop the leak? Was it dry when you looked thru inspection cover? I'll probably do what you did if I ever need knock sensors or anything else in there, but I'm holding out hope my leak isn't main seal still.
OP
OP
Brake_L8
Member
So... it didn't. I did this job because I took the truck in to a local shop as it was leaking a LOT of oil. They claimed I had two leaks - valley pan and oil filter "plate" gasket. I paid them to do the filter plate as they wanted $1400 for the valley pan job.
Well, the valley pan was seeping a bit, but not leaking seriously. And the truck is still leaving big-ish puddles. And it looks really wet right around that oil filter plate. Farther up the motor looks pretty dry to me. The only other thing up top that I didn't yet replace is the oil pressure sender -- which, in hindsight, I should have done. It's right behind the intake manifold and would have been a two minute fix. Oops.
I have looked in the bellhousing inspection cover and everything is dry in there so I don't believe it's my rear main.
I did find the "quirk" in the form of a vacuum line that must have pulled itself off when I was getting everything back lined up:
Truck idles fine now.
So, onward. I would love to have this thing stop leaving spots everywhere it goes.
treehan77
TYF Fiend
thru my inspection cover is dry as a bone also. Dealer says it's the main anyway, it's slinging the oil. Th mechanic showed me when it was up on the lift that he believes the main was pushed out a little bit. I've replaced the oil pressure sender with no success. Can't think of anything else it could be, I'm doubting it's the CPS either.
OP
OP
Brake_L8
Member
Do the oil cooler lines run anywhere near the filter? Pretty sure mine are original at 10 years and 143k.
treehan77
TYF Fiend
They do, but I thought you said you had the block off.
OP
OP
Brake_L8
Member
No, I don't know if I have the oil cooler or if I have a block off there. The truck is 100% stock - so if all Denalis came with the oil cooler, then I have it.
