'98 A/C Compressor on 24/7 - Thoughts

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

juniorwatson

TYF Newbie
Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Posts
20
Reaction score
1
Location
State College, PA
Guys,
I just finished doing an A/C system service by replacing the condenser, orifice valve, accumulator, low pressure switch, compressor and O-rings & PAG46 oil. I flushed the system, and then used a vacuum pump for an hour. The system then held -30 pounds for an hour.

I started off with one can, charging with the liquid 'till empty. I then started the engine, and the compressor clutch was engaged. I then finished adding the second can. I noticed that the compressor clutch never kicked in our out.

I then pulled the low pressure switch on the accumulator, and the clutch stays engaged. The head unit on the dash has the A/C button OUT/OFF. The blower motor is OFF.

I pulled the connector from the compressor receptacle, and it's got voltage.

I can pull the relay, and the clutch will disengage.

I have no idea why the compressor is getting the signal to engage the clutch 24/7.

Thoughts? I have absolutely no idea on this on. - TIA!
 

east302

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2016
Posts
1,626
Reaction score
1,505
Location
Mississippi
Have you tried a new relay?

It looks like the VCM provides a ground to energize and switch the relay based on several inputs.

2fa40387e37b06cf9cbad401b2dbca13.gif

7f8a5fa7bb574c1f1fa87553f9297f5a.gif


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
OP
juniorwatson

juniorwatson

TYF Newbie
Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Posts
20
Reaction score
1
Location
State College, PA
Have you tried a new relay?

It looks like the VCM provides a ground to energize and switch the relay based on several inputs.

Yes, I should have noted that before, I have swapped relays out, and no change. For some reason the relay is getting a GND signal to be energized and provide voltage to the compressor.

Any more ideas? The only other note is that the truck is got a current draw on the cable to the fender mounted fuse box. I'm wondering if something could have shorted in that fusebox?

Thx!
 
OP
OP
juniorwatson

juniorwatson

TYF Newbie
Joined
Aug 21, 2010
Posts
20
Reaction score
1
Location
State College, PA
Yes, I should have noted that before, I have swapped relays out, and no change. For some reason the relay is getting a GND signal to be energized and provide voltage to the compressor.

Any more ideas? The only other note is that the truck is got a current draw on the cable to the fender mounted fuse box. I'm wondering if something could have shorted in that fusebox?

Thx!

Well as a follow-up, I've fixed the problem.

I'm not sure what it was in the PCM, but I flashed the PCM with a few different programs, and now everything is working properly.

I haven't yet seen the clutch disengage while I had it sitting in the driveway, but the HVAC control engage/disengage the clutch as it should.

I can't explain that one....
 

east302

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2016
Posts
1,626
Reaction score
1,505
Location
Mississippi
Glad it got sorted out, thanks for the update.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

liquify33

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2019
Posts
351
Reaction score
337
Location
Houston
Question for you, I’m looking at the same work, after we move houses...

If I replace condenser, compressor, drier and orifice tube, do I need to add additional oil?
I’m going with a Sanden replacement compressor (prefilled w/oil) not sure how much ATM.

The system calls for 8oz.
 

willxfs

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2010
Posts
292
Reaction score
72
Yes. Glad you got it fixed up. I had a relay weld up inside causing a permanent connection one time. The compressor would never turn off and freeze up the system. Recently, I had a bad switch on the accumulator causing the system to freeze up.
 

east302

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2016
Posts
1,626
Reaction score
1,505
Location
Mississippi
Question for you, I’m looking at the same work, after we move houses...

If I replace condenser, compressor, drier and orifice tube, do I need to add additional oil?
I’m going with a Sanden replacement compressor (prefilled w/oil) not sure how much ATM.

The system calls for 8oz.

The spec says that 3 oz is added for evaporator replacement, so if you’re replacing the hoses and everything but the evaporator then (by my math) you would add 5 oz to the system for an 8 oz total (no rear air). You would drain the compressor oil first, they usually include instructions for doing this with the compressor.

6c37d2b5e42f4c5536aca348929dde07.jpg

271f84df6eec03a353a8059bbc809db6.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

liquify33

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2019
Posts
351
Reaction score
337
Location
Houston
My compressor is the belly leaker type and on its way out.
I am not sure how reliable any measurement of oil will be when I drain it.
 

96-2D-Hoe

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2019
Posts
529
Reaction score
408
My compressor is the belly leaker type and on its way out.
I am not sure how reliable any measurement of oil will be when I drain it.
Get yourself a flush kit and flush the evaporator and lines. Drain the compressor and add the full 8 oz.
Edit.
But as you're changing the compressor... You should check what oil it uses and add that.

PS.
I was interested in the Sanden and I'd be curious to know how yours turns out. FYI I noticed there's a lot of 'Sanden' type knockoff's around and a genuine compressor made by Sanden is a fair bit more expensive. But probably worth it as they are a reputable company.
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
132,250
Posts
1,864,779
Members
96,799
Latest member
PistolPeteandDuda
Top