99 Escalade issues (alot)

[Ceejkay]

Hey guys i normally search for all my problems but ive got a laundry list of stuff that i need to do.. here is the beginning So right after posting that, it was running a little rough, cel (ill get back to that), and due to moving and being broke i let it go.. So as of now this is what i got. Yesterday we went to the beach and the truck got really warm (new thermostat 2 months ago). Radiator was empty but reservoir was full, wtf... Filled the radiator up and drove home 10 miles keeping an eye on the temp. Good all the way home. This am went out to have a look and found the water pump area leaking. Only does it when its cold because nothing last night. So i figured i would watch it. Went out today and tried to start it and got a hard start and then grinding. Fried another starter. When i got the truck the starter was grinding at the end of start(dead spot on flywheel).
Now that i went through all the postings im kicking my self in the ass. Rough running issue. Im getting the cam shaft and crankshaft code, i dont remember the numbers sorry. When its cold it misses like a sob and if its idling it will stall. But warmed up its ok just a little rough. And took it to my buddy who is a gm tech and told him i did a full tune up and the codes i was getting. He hooked up the scan tool to relearn the distributor and the truck wouldnt let him in. He couldnt do it, tried 2 machines with no luck. So he told me i needed to replace the dizzy, but he would run it till it didnt start any more.

So Its a 99 Escalade with the 5.7 vortec almost 150k and was not well taken care of before i got it. Also it leaks a little oil 1 qt a month or so.
Here is my laundry list
Flywheel
starter
distributor
complete tsb; crank shaft position sensor replacement
Water pump
Various water hoses (they feel crunchy and while im in there might as well)

Also im drawling a blank on a component, it goes into the top of the drivers side valve cover. But that sounds like its vibrating. I believe it needs replacement, the hose that goes to the intake area was duct taped and i replaced that but i think i need to replace the rest of it. Also i dont thing the fuel spider has ever been replaced but i will start with this and see if i can get it running right.. Hopefully i provided enough info that maybe if im going in the wrong direction someone can point me in the right

 

[SunlitComet]

The device on the valve cover is Positive Crankcase Valve. Should be clean and rattle when you shack it and suck vacuum when running. The sensor alignment code is a p1345 and you must use a scanner that reads CAM_RETARD and raise the rpm to 2000 when measuring and setting to a 0 degrees setting +-2.0 degrees. The relearn procedure is performed after a crank sensor is changed not the cam/dizzy sensor. If you had a faulty dizzy sensor the computer would of told you. And it is replaceable by itself.

All from amazon:

Starter Delco 336-1910A for gear reduction type $166

Flywheel- Pioneer
FRA159 standard $41
FRA159HD Heavy Duty $90

ACDelco 93441558 $280 for whole assembly You can repair the old with new gear if needed.

ACDelco 213-920 Crankshaft Position Sensor $34

A1 Cardone 58-521H Remanufactured Water Pump Severe duty $89

Lower hose
ACDelco 26207X Engine Coolant Hose $22


Upper hose
ACDelco 26349X Engine Coolant Hose $18

Regarding Tsb are you reffering to this:

File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject:
No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During
Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual Noises During Crank, DTC P0338
(Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor) Models:
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models
1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models
1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L or 7.4 L Engine
(VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29) Condition:
Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions: ^ Backfire during crank/start ^ "Kickback" during crank/start ^ "No" start ^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank ^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start ^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss ^ Broken starter drive housing ^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel ^ Any combination of the above Cause:
A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter boss. Correction:
Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the "Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607, MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear). Notice : When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel. Important : Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal. Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

 

[Ceejkay]

Wow thats alot of leg work you did, thank you. That is the tsb. when my truck starts its grinds right after it starts. every time.. i think thats a symptom
i think that was one of the codes i got, i dont remember it has been a little while, and i dont own a scanner.. i did see one post about ultra-guage how well do those work and can i clear codes with it? Also i was thinking about getting torque for the android, anyone have luck with that reading and clearing codes? Or what would you recommend for the average user that isnt gonna kill the bank.

 

[Ceejkay]

Well ive done a few things here and there, nothing part related, but general maintenance wise. So my list has lost some things and gained some things. I took out the starter and there were no stripped teeth on the flywheel just a little bit of wear. Thank goodness.

I took the throttle body off and smelled fuel, got up in there with a light and mirror and there are puddles of fuel around the spider module, so looks like im gonna need a new spider assembly.. So looks like im adding that to my list, might help with my mpg. so im going to fix everything i can and hold off on the dizzy. so we will see.

So random stuff i have done so far that was not on the "list"
Cleaned and oiled my k&n air filter
Removed and cleaned my throttle body( anything i can do performance wise while i have it off??)
Cleaned the EGR
De-greased the engine bay

 

[SunlitComet]

Yes your regulator has probably blown out so just replace the wholespider and you get better injector and a new regulator and no fuel puddles. Better hope that thing does not backfire in the meantime.

http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-FJ10566-Fuel-Injector/dp/B000TYLIFS

It comes with bracket already.

 

[Ceejkay]

well im waiting on a decent amount of money so it will all get done at once. so no starter installed equals no chance for a backfire thank you for the link, so i dont have to get the bracket just the Plenum gaskets, or do should i just get the frequently bought together package? Looks like im up to about 500$ in parts so far. Im looking to probably spend about 1k when im all said and done, if i go efan, and a few other things i want.

 

[SunlitComet]

Get the plenum gasket set just verify the part number in case of so cross over fluke. no bracket since one is included. If you are up for doing intakes as well to eliminate the intake gaskets as a future issue there is a kit for all that. That way you can have the lower intake tanked for cleanliness. If you have not already done it pick up the drop in msd coil($50) for it and while you have it apart grind out the rivets holding the old down and install the new. Later on you can add the rest of ignition upgrades if you want.

 

[Ceejkay]

well got my water pump, spider, plentium gaskets, crank shaft sensor, cam shaft sensor, and starter in the mail yesterday. so this morning got up and got to work. started about 8am and was done around 1pm, man im getting slow in my old age. Started it up with my scan tool attached, instantly got the crank shaft/cam shaft code which i was expecting. so im gonna have to do the relearn. but other than that the truck runs real smooth, smoothest ive ever felt it. I filled up today and well see what kind of mpg im getting now it isnt just dripping in the intake.

 

[SunlitComet]

dealer will hook you up for the crank sensor relearn procedure. your scanner might be able to read "CAM_RETARD" to do the p1345 crank/cam sensor correlation.

---------- Post added at 06:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:52 PM ----------

BTW good work.

 

[Ceejkay]

. p1345 crank/cam sensor correlation.



thats the code i get. but like i said i knew it would happen so im just gonna have to hit up the dealer. now i just have to modify my intake a little bit and i will be set( the area that says vortec sits a lil funny and i dont like it)