I just bought my 99 tahoe 2dr 2w with 184 k for $1600 about a week ago the day after I bought it the rear u-joint started making noise so I replaced both u-joints well I didnt have one of the front clips seated all the way so it threw the driveshaft and begins all my problems now my CEL is throwing a p1345 code and my abs light came on and my pedal goes almost all the way to the floor and to top it off my drive shaft is pretty beat up and everyone is telling me that the only driveshaft that will fit it is out of a 2dr which are hard to come by and very costly and i dont have alot of money to work with. Ok I know I have dropped alot of questions on all of you but I am desperate for answers and my local auto stores employees are idiots and cant seem to help so I am here at your mercy. now the p1345 code I know is camshaft to crankshaft position correlatation fault but what does that actually mean ? and the brakes would the driveshaft comming off cause all of this could it have cut a wire or something ?
99 Tahoe troubles
- Thread starter mikecw99
- Start date
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OK for the driveshaft go to http://car-part.com/ I bought 1 for mine for $65.00 plus shippng... Good Luck!
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
http://www.sunlitcomet.com/pdf/automotive/tahoe/98-99/1999-Tahoe-p1345.pdf
The driveshaft is far back enough that it should not effect a wire related to cam correlation. perhap the shaft hit a wire bundle shorting out some components. But still. The abs/brake system is the only one you mentioned that would probably be effected by a thown shaft. Do you crush a brake line?
The driveshaft is far back enough that it should not effect a wire related to cam correlation. perhap the shaft hit a wire bundle shorting out some components. But still. The abs/brake system is the only one you mentioned that would probably be effected by a thown shaft. Do you crush a brake line?
Thank you GMC I will check them out no one around here has one and they want $ 150 to order me a used one and have to pay for it up front sight unseen
---------- Post added at 07:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:41 AM ----------
I checked all the brake lines and could not find any damage but messing around with it yesterday the ABS light went off but the the brakes still go to the floor I have 2 new callipers im putting on to day and 2 new wheel cylinders 2 flush the system bleed it out and hopefully will correct the problem. And SUNLITCOMET I read the thread about GULLYMANS p1345 code problems and am going to check some of those things out today but one question with 184 k on her could it siply be the timming chain stretched se im used to working on older vehicles all these new sensors scare the hell outta me. thanks for the help and will post if the new callipers and wheel cylinders and flush fix the brake problem
---------- Post added at 07:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:41 AM ----------
I checked all the brake lines and could not find any damage but messing around with it yesterday the ABS light went off but the the brakes still go to the floor I have 2 new callipers im putting on to day and 2 new wheel cylinders 2 flush the system bleed it out and hopefully will correct the problem. And SUNLITCOMET I read the thread about GULLYMANS p1345 code problems and am going to check some of those things out today but one question with 184 k on her could it siply be the timming chain stretched se im used to working on older vehicles all these new sensors scare the hell outta me. thanks for the help and will post if the new callipers and wheel cylinders and flush fix the brake problem
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
I have doubts about the timing chain being the issue. I have not seen or heard of one OBD2 Hoe with a chain problem. Usually it is a ground wire, loose sensor, screwed up Crank sensor or out of sync issue. You will need a scanner that can read Gm's "cam retard" data to fine tune it though.
Well got the new callipers and wheel cylinders and flushed the lines and some pretty nasty brake fluid came out the pedal feels better but dont have a driveshaft to go test it out.
sunlitcomet what kind of scanner do I need to check the timming ?
I also checked all the wirring and couldnt find any cut wires or damaged so I guess tommorow I will pull the dist and check the gear .thanks again for everyones advice Im learning as Im going
Luckly I got my old trusty 79 chevy truck going again today so I can take my time on my Tahoe
sunlitcomet what kind of scanner do I need to check the timming ?
I also checked all the wirring and couldnt find any cut wires or damaged so I guess tommorow I will pull the dist and check the gear .thanks again for everyones advice Im learning as Im going
Luckly I got my old trusty 79 chevy truck going again today so I can take my time on my Tahoe
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
Caution, once you pull that distributor you will need the scanner to line it back up.
As far as the scanner goes do you want hand held or desktop/laptop PC based. PC based unit give you more for the money if you have a portable computer to use.
As far as the scanner goes do you want hand held or desktop/laptop PC based. PC based unit give you more for the money if you have a portable computer to use.
Damn I figured that if i pulled the dist and mrked it before i pulled i could just drop it back in the same place.I have a spare laptop so I would want to go with the pc version so do they sell the program with the cables to hook it up or are they seperate
I've been able to get away with just marking it...using the same dist again. Since you're talking about replacing the distributor, you MIGHT be able to get by with just marking it as well. Potential problem being that you'll have a new distributor/gear that may not be exactly lined up tooth-for-tooth. Give it a shot. If that doesn't work, then you've got the timing game to play - it's all computer controlled on our rides.
