A/C Blowing Hot Air

[RiversS]

I've searched all over and even this forum and I'm still having trouble with my A/C blowing hot air.

It started about a week and a half ago. So far I have:

- Reset actuator with fuse box trick
- Replaced AC fuses
- Jumped the switch to see to get compressor to engage (it clicked but nothing consistent)
- Tried to add freon. It jumps to red when I apply to low pressure gauge
- Replaced the climate control pressure switch

None of these have worked so far. Is there anything I am doing wrong? Would much appreciate some feedback. Thanks.

 

[OR VietVet]

Ok. First: Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

Second: What the hell does "reset actuator with fuse box trick" mean?
Why were fuses replaced? Jumped the low pressure switch? You had a set of gauges attached at both high and low side ports? Replaced climate control pressure switch?

Biggest question: What the heck rig do you own? Year, make, model, engine?


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.

 

[Bandit-66]

it could be that your orifice tube is clogged and therefore the ND side goes so high.
A friend of mine had this problem with his 02 Tahoe and because of that the pressure in the ND side was jammed, new orifice tube was installed and the problem was solved

 

[RiversS]

Ok. First: Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

Second: What the hell does "reset actuator with fuse box trick" mean?
Why were fuses replaced? Jumped the low pressure switch? You had a set of gauges attached at both high and low side ports? Replaced climate control pressure switch?

Biggest question: What the heck rig do you own? Year, make, model, engine?


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.

Sorry, was in a rush when I made the post. Been off forums for a while. 2004 Tahoe LT. 5.3L

Trick I saw on some other forums. Pull out fuse, crank car, replace fuse, try AC controls again. Regardless, it didn't work.

Fuses looked blown so I replaced them. Yes, I jumped the low pressure switch. Clutch made noise as if it were kicking in but it didn't last. Yes, I replaced the climate control pressure switch going into drier/accumulator

I will post pic of my RPO codes when I can. Again, sorry for the confusion.

 

[OR VietVet]

No need to post the RPO codes except for when you are asking specific questions that could relate to them. I post the ones related to my drive train. Post all that vehicle info in your signature so it comes up every single time you post anything.

I can see how that crank with fuse out may help the reset of the a/c controls but never heard of that before.

If you cross the low pressure switch the clutch should stay engaged till you uncross it. It should not shut off till you allow it unless they have made some changes to the a/c system from when I did so much of it when I lived in hot humid KC, Mo. The noise is the clutch kicking in and should not hear it cycle till you plug back in to the switch. It is normal to only "hear" it click as it kicks in. If they call that switch the "climate control pressure switch" and is the only switch there at the accumulator then they used to call that the low pressure switch. If there is two switches on that accumulator, then I am not used to that but if just one switch then that used to be called the low pressure cycling switch.

At this point I would open up the system and replace the accumulator, flush the entire system, replace the orifice and recharge as per factory specs.

 

[RiversS]

No need to post the RPO codes except for when you are asking specific questions that could relate to them. I post the ones related to my drive train. Post all that vehicle info in your signature so it comes up every single time you post anything.

I can see how that crank with fuse out may help the reset of the a/c controls but never heard of that before.

If you cross the low pressure switch the clutch should stay engaged till you uncross it. It should not shut off till you allow it unless they have made some changes to the a/c system from when I did so much of it when I lived in hot humid KC, Mo. The noise is the clutch kicking in and should not hear it cycle till you plug back in to the switch. It is normal to only "hear" it click as it kicks in. If they call that switch the "climate control pressure switch" and is the only switch there at the accumulator then they used to call that the low pressure switch. If there is two switches on that accumulator, then I am not used to that but if just one switch then that used to be called the low pressure cycling switch.

At this point I would open up the system and replace the accumulator, flush the entire system, replace the orifice and recharge as per factory specs.

Ok, maybe it is called the low pressure switch. I got the other term from another site and YouTube watching tutorials on how to troubleshoot this. I promise I'm not trying to confuse anyone!

I'm trying whatever I can before I have to take it to a mechanic and spend a chunk of $$$

Like I mentioned earlier, when I tried to add freon, the gauge on can would shoot to red and not move. It appears as if I have freon in the system, no? The air blows as hard as it can on full blast, but obviously it is not cooling it down before it reaches the cabin.

Would it be safe to say I have a poor or malfunctioning condenser and/or evaporator?

 

[OR VietVet]

I think it is safe to say that a qualified tech should check it out. At this point I don't know if you are empty or full or a component malfunction. Also, the way a/c works is that it uses the air/blower for the flow of returned cooled air that is cycled thru the entire system and removes heat from the existing air in the inside of the vehicle.

It can get dangerous and expensive if you try things when you are unsure of what is going on and what to do. That charging hose and gauge on the cans is crap as far as I am concerned.

Try to find a shop that will allow you to supply your own parts, AC Delco so they know they are quality parts and you can buy at Rock Auto or at Amazon. They supply the labor the vacuum pump and the refrigerant. They will only warranty their labor and refrigerant and nothing on the parts. A correctly operating a/c system can be expensive to repair but when done right it should last for quite a while.

 

[Scottydoggs]

is the compressor turning at all? do both fans come on when the ac it turned on?

did you have the battery unhooked before the ac took a crap? every time i disconnect my battery i need to do the ac re set. its for the actuators really, nothing more.

this vid, follow it it works for me. at no time do you start the car fuse out. fuse out for a minute truck off. replace it let the truck run for 2 minutes dont touch the ac, let it do its thing, then turn it off for 15 seconds, turn it back on, everything works like normal. literally did this monday.....after i un hooked the battery.

 

[OR VietVet]

is the compressor turning at all? do both fans come on when the ac it turned on?

did you have the battery unhooked before the ac took a crap? every time i disconnect my battery i need to do the ac re set. its for the actuators really, nothing more.

this vid, follow it it works for me. at no time do you start the car fuse out. fuse out for a minute truck off. replace it let the truck run for 2 minutes dont touch the ac, let it do its thing, then turn it off for 15 seconds, turn it back on, everything works like normal. literally did this monday.....after i un hooked the battery.

It's an 04 Tahoe. No radiator fans.

 

[Scottydoggs]

It's an 04 Tahoe. No radiator fans.

damn i thought they started in 04. wonder if the clutch is shot to living hell on the fan.

seems like the compressor is not turning on. bad hi pressure switch can do that.