A/C Compressor Clutch?

[Billydunwoody]

I got a guage myself and realized why the O’Reilly guy said it was good. He was measuring it when the compressor was not engaging. I got a gauge myself and when the compressor engaged, it went to the LOW side. I got an small r134a recharge bottle and the problem is almost fixed(barely hit the green, compressor doesnt do that noise on Max AC). Once that otber blttle goes in tomorrow, it should be perfect in the green and no more cycling noise on normal AC.
Yall were right!

 

[Geotrash]

I got a guage myself and realized why the O’Reilly guy said it was good. He was measuring it when the compressor was not engaging. I got a gauge myself and when the compressor engaged, it went to the LOW side. I got an small r134a recharge bottle and the problem is almost fixed(barely hit the green, compressor doesnt do that noise on Max AC). Once that otber blttle goes in tomorrow, it should be perfect in the green and no more cycling noise on normal AC.
Yall were right!

It's real easy to overcharge these things, so I'd stop at one can if it's running normally again.

The only way to do it accurately is to have the system evacuated professionally, then draw a vacuum on to for 45 minutes to get all traces of moisture and air out of it, and then add r134a by weight to the amount shown on the placard in the engine compartment using a proper gauge set. My XL Denali takes 2.1 lbs of refrigerant. And as already suggested, replace those Schrader valves before you charge it as they're the most likely culprit for the leak.

 

[j91z28d1]

yeah, if you have a mechanic you usually use and does ac. have them evacuate the system, replace the high and low valve core as said, the high side gm always leak. it's annoying and refill the system with the correct amount by weight. trying to fill a system by a gauge and get it right is kinda hard to do and kinda close at best.

 

[Billydunwoody]

Thanks. Ill leave it as is for now and mext month’s oil change I will have him do a full evacuate and recharge of the a/c

 

[OR VietVet]

Any good shop and good tech with good equipment can measure the amount that comes out and then can adjust as needed to recharge to the correct full amount.

I will say again, replace the accumulator, the orifice and the low pressure switch at same time. The accumulator is the moisture filter for the system and is of unknown age. The rest is cheap and important.

 

[Billydunwoody]

Any good shop and good tech with good equipment can measure the amount that comes out and then can adjust as needed to recharge to the correct full amount.

I will say again, replace the accumulator, the orifice and the low pressure switch at same time. The accumulator is the moisture filter for the system and is of unknown age. The rest is cheap and important.

Absolutely, parts ordered on RockAuto.
Thanks!

 

[UmmScott]

One thing to remember, the system is not supposed to leak. If is low, then you have a leak, even if it is a real small leak. Something that slow is typically at the shrader valves, service ports. When you have the tech check the pressures, remove the threaded caps and have him check there for leaks first. The threaded caps have o-ring seals and really slow a small leak down. If is leaking, he can recover the existing refrigerant, install new shrader valves, evacuate the system and recharge. I am of the opinion that when a system is opened up, you did not give the year of your vehicle till I saw it in the video, that if old enough-yours is, replace the accumulator and the orifice while it is open and if original switch, do the low pressure switch on the accumulator.

Nailed it.