A/C Compressor running constantly on my '99 hoe

[SunlitComet]

yeah the pcm is screwed at that point. Let us now how it turns out. If you can pull it. have the dealer do a quick a/c check once they are done with the programming.

 

[willie1280]

John,

I bought the PCM at oreillys for $113 and the dealership progammed it for $100. Now it shuts off/on as it should and even cycles like it never used to. Only issue now it it doesn't blow any cold air at all. I drove it from the dealership to the mechanic that put the compressor in (about 10mi) and it never blew cold. It's sitting at his place now and he's going to have a look at it.

---------- Post added at 02:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:40 PM ----------

Well the mechanic called back....bad news.

apparently i blew the lines for the rear air and it's going to be $1300 for new lines and evaporator But he warned the condensor and something else in front were original and were at risk once the new stuff was put in.

So i'm $800 in the hole....do i cut my loss' or what?

 

[SunlitComet]

No fix it. If it is actually still running cycling and all then your lines could not be blown. The pressure would drop to zero and the low pressure switch and cycling switch would have to be malfunctioning as well. Did it actually blow the line from over pressure or were they corroded or something. And has the compressor not turned on since. If it is the rear system and you are up to it save the labor costs and do most of it your self. Unless your frame is twisted keep the truck. If money is tight maybe temporarily cap of the rear system. evacuate and recharge the rest and go back to the rear later. If you actually blew a line from over pressure your thermostatic expansion valve on the rear evap was probably plugged or jammed closed from somebody using leak sealant. Let me know what you want to do I help you thru it.

I wish mine had rear air they are much more efficient then the front half.

 

[willie1280]

Well i bought it back and they hooked it back up the machine and ran the dye test and found some leaking in the rear system. Then he said something it used to be a single line system and now it's a 4-piece deal?? So he said $1300 for new rear lines and evaporator. He said there was risk of twisting the front lines when doing all this work. He also cautioned that by putting all this new stuff into it, it could put more strain on the old stuff.

I noticed the day after the compressor got repaired that it wasn't putting out as cold as the first day. So it must have been progressively seeping out.

He did mention about omitting the rear system and only having front air, but said that would still run about $650.

At this point, if i could recoup as much as possible i would and just live w/o air. However i don't think i could get anything for the new compressor they put in.

If i did the work, what do you think is the cheapest i could do it for? He did say things were rusted on pretty good under there and said i would probably have to cut the passanger running boards off.

 

[SunlitComet]

need to know if you have a rear heater option back there?

 

[Stresst]

Just a thought Autocoolingsolutions.com sold me my lines for 339 but then I went back and bought the evaporator and expansion for another 250+ they sell it as a kit even less.

 

[willie1280]

need to know if you have a rear heater option back there?

No, just rear air i believe.

 

[SunlitComet]

Conservatively about $410. $100 less if you don't actually need the rear aveaporator. THis in cludes both long lines going down the fram rail, rear evaporator, rear thermostatic expansion valve for rear, orifice valve for front if needed(they can plug up), and a new accumulator/drier since it appears if I understand correctly that you system has a burst line as is currently opened and exposed to the atmosphere at this time. may not really need a rear evaporator. Unless there are physical signs of the tubes stretch I would leave it as is. As a matter of fact I would really only go after the line that is broken unless there is damage to the other. Could possibly use less parts. Can you find out exactly where and what and how the line is actually broken. If the accumulator is relatively new and you tape up the leak so the outside junk don't not physically enter it then I would just replace the broken line and valve(if the pressure line broke). The parts are from multiple sources. Some local some mail. you would still be better of have a shop do the evacuation and recharge unless you want to rent tools as well.

 

[04SS99Denali]

when i had my OBS denali the compressor clutch would scream so loud i wouldnt be able to hear the radio. i just pulled the plug right from on top of the compressor

 

[SunlitComet]

when i had my OBS denali the compressor clutch would scream so loud i wouldnt be able to hear the radio. i just pulled the plug right from on top of the compressor

Uh, that problem has been solved already.