A/C issues on my 01 Burb

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bayareadude84

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In theory the low pressure cutoff switch should prevent the compressor from cycling too long and damaging itself if there isn't enough refrigerant. The reason you're seeing it click on and off is the low pressure switch doing it's job.


Now, if it was turning on and cycling continuously, then you might want to see about replacing your low pressure switch.



Ya it was clicking on and off before I added more freon,Now after 3 cans and some PAG oil it doesn't do it anymore.Shows how much I know about A/C systems lol


Dave
 

DeepSeaFish

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Check your coolant level as well. It's possible you may have a vapor lock ( trapped air bubble) in the system somewhere or a possible slow coolant leak... ( check around your water pump ) Any coolant smells after driving ? After you stop driving and come to a stop / idle, your coolant may not be flowing adequately through the engine. This will cause your cooling or heating system to cease cooling / heating until you get your RPM's back up when driving.
 

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I was amazed myself at how much it took when I had the refrigerant replaced in mine and I had to pay extra for it. The rear a/c makes the difference in volume. I actually looked up the capacity to make sure I wasn't being robbed. Glad it's working for you now.
 

scoobyxj

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I just had my AC recharged after a compressor replacement, and the shop who did my freon work (I did the compressor myself) told me that I should replace my fan clutch. He said it would help considerably at low speeds with AC cooling. I don't have any overheating issues, but at low speeds, or stopped my AC would (and even after the recharge) would only blow half cool air. At speed it gets ice cold. After he pointed it out I have noticed that it will lock up, and you can hear the cooling fan whirring when it gets good and hot, but at milder temps, and until the motor gets good and warm the clutch seams to not lock up. It's like it still works, but it's not aggressive enough.
 
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bayareadude84

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Check your coolant level as well. It's possible you may have a vapor lock ( trapped air bubble) in the system somewhere or a possible slow coolant leak... ( check around your water pump ) Any coolant smells after driving ? After you stop driving and come to a stop / idle, your coolant may not be flowing adequately through the engine. This will cause your cooling or heating system to cease cooling / heating until you get your RPM's back up when driving.



No coolant leak at all or smell and it has never overheated on me so far.

*knock on wood

---------- Post added at 09:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:49 PM ----------

Been over a week and still ICE cold !!!! :)


Looks like that PAG oil and those 4 cans did the trick !!!!!
 

SLCHOE

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I just had my AC recharged after a compressor replacement, and the shop who did my freon work (I did the compressor myself) told me that I should replace my fan clutch. He said it would help considerably at low speeds with AC cooling. I don't have any overheating issues, but at low speeds, or stopped my AC would (and even after the recharge) would only blow half cool air. At speed it gets ice cold. After he pointed it out I have noticed that it will lock up, and you can hear the cooling fan whirring when it gets good and hot, but at milder temps, and until the motor gets good and warm the clutch seams to not lock up. It's like it still works, but it's not aggressive enough.

He's right. Fan clutches do get weak. I upgraded mine to a HD unit and that thing roars. I do get better cooling at idle due to lower head pressure though so it did help. Probably the best upgrade you can do to these trucks to improve A/C performance while idle is the electric fan conversion. You get way better cooling of the condenser that way and less power loss to the fan.
 
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bayareadude84

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Well about a month later and still ICE cold :)

Only issue is weird chemical smell coming from vents,I guess that's what I get with cheap wal mart freon lol
 

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