That was my thought but the inside of my manifold set does not engage far enough to depress the ball valve. It will for a schrader though.
Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
A/C issues
- Thread starter shegarty
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
When I got my 02 the a/c worked flawlessly and still does after 5+ years and have never looked. But, since the orifice/expansion valve is in the same line then yes, the high and low are in the same line. The gauges will only connect to the right port as they are different sizes as well. As ks03 said, it does look to be a ball valve. Attach gauges to both of them and get a pressure reading and list the ambient temp at the same time.
It may take a different set of gauges or an adapter for the high side gauge line to attach.
It may take a different set of gauges or an adapter for the high side gauge line to attach.
Hopefully someone has more input on these valves. I watched a video and it said that the rubber valve can be damaged if screw the hose on too far. If I was doing the job I would insist on a new valve each time. Why would they change it from the old style?
No idea why it was changed but I am also worried about damaging it. I'll look into some kind of adapter. I was able to too off the system two years ago and just didn't bother to monitor the high side as it was working fine.
Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
Ok...those 2 fittings are the high and low side to the system. That compression fitting is where the orifice tube is for the front AC system.
Btw..your connections look normal with that black rubber stopper in there. Thats normal and what GM uses from factory.
2nd...lets address why your clutch wont come on.
When you have the lit snowflake the hvac control head sends a signal thru the BCM to the PCM requesting AC operation. The PCM is in complete control of the ac clutch.
There are 2 safeties are in this circuit.
There is obviously the one on the accumulator.
There is another and it might be on the backside of the compressor itself. Thats the high pressure cut out. Both these will keep the clutch off if theres a problem.
Easy peasy test. Unplug both sensors and let the truck be off for about 5 mins. Ohm them. They BOTH should be closed when the system is at rest. If they are closed, then you need to do voltage testing to see where you do and dont have power: fuse, relay, etc.
If the high pressure one is stuck open, its bad replace it. If the low pressure one is open, stop, you have a refrigeration charge issue and need that addressed. Carefully check your wiring around the compressor. And make sure you didnt break a connection going to the high pressure cut out
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Btw..your connections look normal with that black rubber stopper in there. Thats normal and what GM uses from factory.
2nd...lets address why your clutch wont come on.
When you have the lit snowflake the hvac control head sends a signal thru the BCM to the PCM requesting AC operation. The PCM is in complete control of the ac clutch.
There are 2 safeties are in this circuit.
There is obviously the one on the accumulator.
There is another and it might be on the backside of the compressor itself. Thats the high pressure cut out. Both these will keep the clutch off if theres a problem.
Easy peasy test. Unplug both sensors and let the truck be off for about 5 mins. Ohm them. They BOTH should be closed when the system is at rest. If they are closed, then you need to do voltage testing to see where you do and dont have power: fuse, relay, etc.
If the high pressure one is stuck open, its bad replace it. If the low pressure one is open, stop, you have a refrigeration charge issue and need that addressed. Carefully check your wiring around the compressor. And make sure you didnt break a connection going to the high pressure cut out
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Another thing after rereading your original post...
I know you meant well by trying to avoid opening the refrig system by just replacing the clutch BUT...
If the clutch bearing goes bad, alot of times that will destroy the front bearing of the compressor shaft and also damage the compressor shaft seal.
Thats a critical seal and if it gets slightly damaged kiss the refrigerant charge goodbye.
I would ohm that low pressure switch first. Its easy and right there and takes 30 seconds.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
I know you meant well by trying to avoid opening the refrig system by just replacing the clutch BUT...
If the clutch bearing goes bad, alot of times that will destroy the front bearing of the compressor shaft and also damage the compressor shaft seal.
Thats a critical seal and if it gets slightly damaged kiss the refrigerant charge goodbye.
I would ohm that low pressure switch first. Its easy and right there and takes 30 seconds.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Yes, i am aware that the compressor bearings and seal can often be compromised when the clutch bearing goes. As I stated though the system is still holding a charge so I thought this would be the smart way to start.
If I am omh testing the low side pressure switch what exactly am I looking for? From my primitive understanding of electrical diagnostics is should see small resistance if the circuit is closed and infinite if it is open.
Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
A 2 wire pressure switch should show only 2 readings..
Closed: 0 ohms or very very low ohms like 0.3 or similar.
Or open: OL reading, no continuity.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Got it. I'll check this morning and post back with what I find.
Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
