AC comp locked up.

[Thrown_hammer]

The compressor locked up and smoked the clutch so I don't think I can get away with just changing out the compressor.

Shop wants $2k to change Comp, dryer, accumulator, orifice, and flush and fill.

I am think about just replacing all the parts and lines myself so it won't need flushed, then have a shop charge the system.

Is there a diagram somewhere online with an exploded view of the AC system? It's a 2013 PPV with rear AC if that matters.

Not sure if I would save any money until I add up all the part costs...

 

[exp500]

Try here-

RockAuto

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[Geotrash]

This is all I could find. Hope it's helpful.

 

[swathdiver]

Is there a diagram somewhere online with an exploded view of the AC system? It's a 2013 PPV with rear AC if that matters.

AllDataDIY

 

[diesel_dave]

If you are the DIY type and want to save some $$$, you can buy all the stuff to flush, evacuate and charge your own AC system for a few hundred bucks which is probably way cheaper than any AC shop and you get to keep the tools at the end. I was a little intimidated to do it but I did on my HMMWV and it actually was pretty easy to do.

 

[LordWayback]

Be careful with the compressor connectors otherwise it’s pretty simple unless it’s very different than the picture makes it look compared to my 01

 

[LordWayback]

General Instructions: get good snap ring pliers,get system evacuated unless you hate the environment or r134a spraying in your eyes, jack car up Atleast on passenger, remove skid plate/tire, remove wheel well , remove thingy that shows the belt diagram , remove the grill, remove passenger headlights and bracket (MAY REQUIRE T20 security bit with no center pin) , remove all the lines in any order (self explanatory should be a 13mm at times long extensions help but aren’t needed), set up drip pan under the compressor, remove the 4 15mm(?) Unless they changed, remove it the intake (should be 2 8mm bolts/flathead) if you still have a ac belt on that you don’t want to cut off. , then you get to the fun part of actually removing the compressor get ready to twist it around and back and forth for 2 hours. until it falls out between the frame and passenger wheel well, then do the condenser you can do it before the compressor if you want it doesn’t matter the order IMO nothing stopping you from doing one first but once the compressor is out unless you have magic hands this is how you’ll feel and you’ll probably be done for the day car repair wise. The rest would be at the mechanics or reverse of what you’ve done unless you do the expansion valve or rear ac lines.

 

[LordWayback]

The compressor locked up and smoked the clutch so I don't think I can get away with just changing out the compressor.

Shop wants $2k to change Comp, dryer, accumulator, orifice, and flush and fill.

I am think about just replacing all the parts and lines myself so it won't need flushed, then have a shop charge the system.

Is there a diagram somewhere online with an exploded view of the AC system? It's a 2013 PPV with rear AC if that matters.

Not sure if I would save any money until I add up all the part costs...

Labor is the only rediculous part if you do everything the professional bb way yourself you’re probably looking at $1,000 with your labor unless you take a while because a couple things get frustrating