MadDogDelpho
Texcellent
Yep, plug and play. It's an easy, and popular, swap for people wanting to lift, or get out of nivomats
"Adventure/Overland" Build Ideas
- Thread starter Lutha
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Good deal, I figured it was in the family, but it's always nice to know about a vehicle from the beginning. I only mention bushings and such, because once you lift, if any of those parts are near the end of their life, the new angles with the lift will promptly put them out. Lots of people here like the poly Bushings from Energy Suspensions.
Z71 is just a buy and swap, and not to hard so long as you have a 3ton jack, and some basic mechanic know how. Premium Sooth Ride is what my dad's truck has, and the shocks cost far too much for what they do.
Z71 is just a buy and swap, and not to hard so long as you have a 3ton jack, and some basic mechanic know how. Premium Sooth Ride is what my dad's truck has, and the shocks cost far too much for what they do.
BigDaddy13440
Full Access Member
Simplest lift would be keys for the front, and Z71 springs and spacers in the rear, along with shocks. I used a set of lift keys for a Ford Expedition, got me just about 3", and I have over half the threads remaining (they are indexed more than Chevy indexed keys, or Ford stock keys). Have the aforementioned Z71 springs and 2" spacer in mine, along with 3" longer rear sway bar links (for a Jeep Wrangler). For shocks, most on here recommend Bilsteins, but I got KYB MonoMax for mine (front extended for 2-5" of lift, and 2" spacers on stock length in the rear).
Am currently running 285/75/16's on 16x8 wheels, no rubbing at all. Some say you can fit a 295/75/16, or a 305/70/16. With some trimming, you could squeeze 315/75/16's.
If you need to do the brakes, I'd recommend doing the NNBS upgrade (front caliper brackets, calipers and rotors from a 07-13), but you'd need 17" wheels. If you're going that far, you can step up to 20's, and run 275/65/20's, just over 34", and probably not have to trim any sheetmetal.
If you need more tire, the easiest solution (and least expensive) would be to add a 3" body lift. Most don't care for the look of the frame showing, but if you have nerf bars or running boards, it'd hardly be noticeable. Then, you'd be able to clear 35x12.5's (16, 17 or 20" wheels) with no problem.
Am currently running 285/75/16's on 16x8 wheels, no rubbing at all. Some say you can fit a 295/75/16, or a 305/70/16. With some trimming, you could squeeze 315/75/16's.
If you need to do the brakes, I'd recommend doing the NNBS upgrade (front caliper brackets, calipers and rotors from a 07-13), but you'd need 17" wheels. If you're going that far, you can step up to 20's, and run 275/65/20's, just over 34", and probably not have to trim any sheetmetal.
If you need more tire, the easiest solution (and least expensive) would be to add a 3" body lift. Most don't care for the look of the frame showing, but if you have nerf bars or running boards, it'd hardly be noticeable. Then, you'd be able to clear 35x12.5's (16, 17 or 20" wheels) with no problem.
MikeLade
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I did the nibs brake upgrade and my truck is hydroboost. Next will be braided hoses. I figure with 3/16" steel bumpers and the recovery gear on board, any extra braking power will be good.
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Lutha
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Thanks a lot. What bushings are you referring to exactly? Reason that I ask is that I am wondering if it would be wise to replace anything else in the back as I'm doing the shocks and springs?
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Lutha
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Why the extended rear sway bar links? And what rear spacers did you use?
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Lutha
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I am totally interested in your build. You'll literally be Cadillac camping! Sweet! Don't know if that is a widely used term, but that is what I refer to car camping as (sans Cadillac). I have already done a complete brake job with stock components, so I won't be doing that upgrade anytime soon. You planning to install custom bumpers or have something else in mind? I have only found one front so far that fits our rig and caught my interest and that was an ARB for like $1500
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Lutha
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I am also wondering at what point do you need to worry about gearing? That is, if you put heavier wheels and tires on, when does gearing become a concern or is it at all?
MadDogDelpho
Texcellent
From what I've heard, gearing isn't all that necessary until you get up to 35s or 37s, and a 6+ inch lift. I think the common bushings that start to wear out are the ball joints in the upper and lower control arms on your front end, as well as your CV joints depending on your angles.
BigDaddy13440
Full Access Member
The extended links are to keep the angles of the rear sway bar close to factory, and provide "close to factory" handling. You don't need to run them (I didn't on my '01 Suburban), but I do on my '04 Yukon XL. But for $20, well worth the "why not?" factor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Rough-C...ngler-07-17-/282394293097?hash=item41c002f369
And as far as shock spacers, I just used these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Shock-...c-2000-2006-/271840977220?hash=item3f4afc2144
