Aftermarket wheel hub bore too big for spare tire holder

[The Raven]

I see now… i didn’t zoom into the pic at first. The metal is barely wide enough to hold the wheel. I thought centering the hanger with a hub centric spacer would help center the hanger. But I see that doesn’t help.

what does the front of the wheel look like?

The area around the hub bore is pretty flat. So a giant washer of the right size should work fine. That's the only plan I have right now. Only question is if I need to fabricate one or if washers of that size already exist.

 

[Tonyv__]

The area around the hub bore is pretty flat. So a giant washer of the right size should work fine. That's the only plan I have right now. Only question is if I need to fabricate one or if washers of that size already exist.

I’d get 2 steelies a from a junkyard and just gind out the centers. I say 2 if your worried about the strength of 1

 

[Fless]

They are hubcentric wheels.

If they have the same opening as your OE wheels (both being hub centric) why would these holes be any larger than an OE spare? Or is there shrinkage of the "claw thingy?"

 

[The Raven]

If they have the same opening as your OE wheels (both being hub centric) why would these holes be any larger than an OE spare? Or is there shrinkage of the "claw thingy?"

They use hubcentric adapter rings. This is what the vast majority of aftermarket wheel manufacturers do...they make the bore large enough to fit the largest hub they intend the wheel to fit, and then offer adapters for all smaller applications. So you snap the adapters into the hub bore on the wheel, and then the wheel fits snugly on the hub.

 

[Shackman7878]

Ran into this issue, Had to cut the spare from my Yukon XL 2500 4x4. When I got a replacement from a Suburban 1500 come to find out the the 4x4 center bore is bigger then 2wd model. Made a ugly repair due to camping inside the Yukon and spare takes up a lot of room. Look for ones with wider lift point.

Another thing If you have the chassis with the back 10 gallon tank you will need to buy the shorter one.

 

[The Raven]

Ran into this issue, Had to cut the spare from my Yukon XL 2500 4x4. When I got a replacement from a Suburban 1500 come to find out the the 4x4 center bore is bigger then 2wd model. Made a ugly repair due to camping inside the Yukon and spare takes up a lot of room. Look for ones with wider lift point.

Another thing If you have the chassis with the back 10 gallon tank you will need to buy the shorter one.

That's a great idea too. I just wonder how you got it on there. Did you rivet it together after putting the claw through it?

 

[Shackman7878]

Used rivets do not have a welder at this time.
Black is the claw. Red is plate cut slightly smaller than the claw thread it one side then the other,
Gray is the squares I cut and riveted on each side behind the edges of the claw and give it some strength.
You will need to measure the hub opening and from one lug hole to the other and cut steel to fit and rounded the edges
Made this with leftover steel in my garage.

Part number 22968178 or Doman 92451. Amazon had aftermarket ones but you call on using them. Highly recommend using a Silicone or graphite spray inside the hoist itself and running it up and down a couple times.

If you buy the Doman one, get it from Local auto part store Autozone Etc with a lifetime warranty behind it.

As part of my spare tire kit I put a hacksaw/heavy duty lineman pliers/Small bolt cutters in there in case the hoist gets jammed and I have to cut the cable to drop the spare.