Alignment issue

[BigDaddy13440]

Just got my truck back from the local Goodyear service center, took it there this AM for an alignment. I was told they can't get the caster and camber to within factory specs, as I've cranked the torsion bars to clear my 285's (on non-stock wheels). The tech even went so far as to use smaller washers on the bolts holding the upper control arms in place, but the adjustment available with the slots still needs to be about 1* more for both the caster and the camber.

I don't have the stock torsion keys maxed out, they are 2 1/2 turns from max. What have you guys that are using Ford keys or aftermarket keys found? After you've cranked them up, has your alignment been okay?

I'm tempted to elongate the holes by about 1/8", and grind down the washers he put in so they'll clear the lip on the control arm mounts. Good idea, or no?
Even though the truck tracks a helluva lot better than it did before, I'd like to get it back to within spec, WITHOUT having to uncrank the bars.

Any help?

 

[fyremanpat]

Im pretty sure you are gonna have the same issue even with new keys. With new keys there is still tension on the bars just dont have to tighten them as much to get more clearance. You might wanna try after market upper control arms....even then if your only off a degree I wouldnt sweat it.

 

[BigDaddy13440]

Im pretty sure you are gonna have the same issue even with new keys. With new keys there is still tension on the bars just dont have to tighten them as much to get more clearance. You might wanna try after market upper control arms....even then if your only off a degree I wouldnt sweat it.

I KNOW I'd have the same issue if I were to use new keys, the suspension geometry tolerances of the front end doesn't change whether I crank up the stock keys or use replacements. The only difference is that if I use Ford keys or aftermarket ones is that I'd have the ability to exceed the tolerances by that much more, something I DON'T want to do.

The tech said I should drop the torsion bars back down to within factory tolerances, and take the added leaves out of the rear pack. He said if I wanted to keep the 285's, I should just do a body lift. I really don't want to do that, I like the stance it has now - if anything, I'd like to crank it up more, bring the front up about another inch.

What are these replacement control arms you mention? Anybody have to use them, and/or know where to get them, and costs? Would it be cheaper to get a body lift and put it in?

 

[1995mudrunner]

I have 285s on my tahoe with a three inch body lift under it and i have lots of space for my tires i would suggest going with a 2 inch body lift and turning the key adjustment bolt down so they are at about 50% of the travel then get it aligned again and you will be golden